DB suit particulars

[ilcatex]

I know the what... just not the why!

The What: I have never looked good in a DB suit. I have tried many different DB suits and they all seem to make me look... I don't know... awkward! Some make me look ridiculously thick through the middle, some boxy, etc.

I would like to know why, fellow Loungers! I know that conventional wisdom says that heavier guys shouldn't wear DB... I don't consider myself heavier, but thought I would give some dimensions to help with the question. My true jacket size is a 47... can get by with some 46s and some 48s. 34/35 inch waist. 16.5 inch neck with a 34 sleeve. Just a hair under 6' and 190lbs.

Is there a body type, shape, etc that a DB just doesn't work on? I anticipate your collective wisdom.

 

[manton]

First, it's worth noting that there are trade-offs. Some will say "Heavy men never." Others will say "Rules like that area always wrong." I think both are wrong. But there is some wisdom in telling the heavy or stocky man to be cautious with DB. If the cut is not right, it is unflattering. And even at its best, it is not as slimming as SB at its best can be.

Everything needs to scale. If you are big, don't get a DB with skimpy lapels and a narrow wrap. The overlap of the fronts should be wide -- say, 5" between rows of buttons rather than 4" or 4.5". Spread those buttons out on the vertical, too, to lengthen the line. The safest choice it so stay away from vents altogether. Wide lapels are a plus, as is a high gorge. The button stance -- where the middle buttons are placed -- should be high -- at or above the natural waist. The coat should be on the short side, maybe half an inch shorter than you are used to.

Another Golden era trick is the so-called "Kent style." This is a six (or four) button DB with a button stance that looks like it is meant to be buttoned in the middle. But in reality, the lapel is rolled so that it buttons at the bottom. The longer lapel line gives you an illusion of length over breadth. It's not going to make a stocky guy look positively lean, but every little bit helps.

 

[ilcatex]

Thanks manton...

but what's a gorge?[huh]

 

[Jovan]

The gorge is where the lapels meet the collar. In simpler terms, where the actual notch or peak of a lapel sits. Often this is confused with buttoning stance. A lot of modern, fashionable suits have a really high gorge. English ones (as in Savile Row) usually have a higher gorge than American ones. Low gorges were pretty "in" in the '80s, but not very flattering. I think a high gorge looks good, but I'd stay away from the ones where the notches/peaks go very close to the top shoulder seam.

 

[ilcatex]

Thanks...

I love that I always learn something here...

 

[Jovan]

You're welcome.

If you have clothing questions like that, Manton is a great authority. He has a book that you should check out called The Suit. I read a few passages from it and it's very informative.