DB jacket project

[thunderw21]

I bought a modern DB suit jacket at a thrift shop today and wanted to do a project with it. It is one of those 6x1 button jackets that can always be found in thrift shops.
Anyways, I decided I'm going to convert this 6x1 jacket to 6x2. The things I need to do are:
1. Shorten the lapels slightly.
2. Move the bottom two buttons out a bit further so they are directly below the middle buttons.
3. (the hard part) Make a second button hole on the left side of the jacket since it is becoming a 6x2.
4. Move the hidden button so it lines up with the new position of the hidden button hole.
5. Lengthen the sleeves slightly. (they're a little too short for me)
I hope this makes sense, I don't really know the terminology very well.

I'm a 40R and this jacket is a 44R. I intentionally bought a much larger jacket since more of it would wrap around my body once the conversion is finished.
I'll post pictures of it when it is finished.
Has anyone else tried this and if yes how did it turn out?
Billy

 

[Dr Doran]

Sounds very ambitious. Please take before and after shots!

 

[neyus]

Im intending a similar project, might be slightly more challenging however.

I will attempt to convert a 1x2 to a 1x 6 or 2x6.

I will await your posts before I try it.

 

[Orgetorix]

Good luck. I'd expect a jacket that big to be too large for you in the shoulders, no matter how much you wrap it around. Let's see pictures when you're done!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I can't imagine this project will result in anything wearable, but good luck anyway. At least you'll learn a bit about the construction of a men's jacket.

A more feasible project/conversion would be the purchase of a 6x1 jacket and move the buttons to make it the "Kent" model.

bk

 

[Fletch]

Look carefully at the stiffenings inside the jacket front where it meets the lapel. They are usually shaped to work with only one lapel style. And altering inside stiffenings and other structure is the kind of thing you only learn in 7 years apprenticeship.

Rolling up from a low button stance to a high effectively makes part of the lapel (which is unstiffened) into part of the jacket front. It may ripple or pucker away from the rest of the front, or throw a kink into the lapel itself when buttoned.

Please do keep us informed of your progress. I've often wondered whether this particular trick is possible without a first class tailor, and expense to match.

 

[thunderw21]

I nearly forgot about this thread. :eusa_doh:

Well, I just finished the major alterations today, now I only have to lengthen the sleeves a little.
Now for the pictures. Unfortunately I did not get any 'before' shots so I have added a pic of a different but unaltered 6x1 jacket that is of similar size to the project jacket.
*Note that the dummy used in these photos has a very similar build to me: skinny but 'athletic'.

Now for the altered project jacket. It turned out rather well. I experienced some difficulty taking the long lapels and making them a bit shorter but after much steaming and ironing they now stay in their intended position. I haven't encountered any 'puckering' along the lapel because of altering the stiffenings, though I may not be looking for the right thing.

After the lapels were altered I had to move the lower two buttons toward the outside so that they lined up with the middle buttons. This resulted in the jacket being wrapped around the body more, turning the 44R jacket into something that better fits a 40R sized body. It may just be my shoulders or it may have been the wrapping from the alteration, but the shoulders now fit me much better than they did before the alteration.

Because of this wrapping I then had to alter the inside button. Since I could not easily create another button hole on the inside I was forced to remove the inside button from the left side of the jacket and place it on the right side at the end of the lapel (see the picture below). This will also help the lapel keep its intended shape. I then jerry-rigged a loop out of a thick string and attached it at the desired spot inside on the left side of the jacket. This will be the 'buttonhole'. It ain't pretty but it works and it is on the inside where it will remain unseen.
This was perhaps the most difficult part of the alteration since the positioning of this inside button and 'buttonhole' determined the fitting and appearance of the jacket.

Now that the jacket can be button closed a buttonhole must be made for the middle right button. Wearing the jacket, I had another person mark where the buttonhole should be and then I created the buttonhole. Difficult but I am happy with the results.
Now I just need to lengthen the sleeves a bit and it will be finished.

This is the only picture I have at the moment. I will post more of me wearing it sometime after Sunday.
I am quite happy with this jacket. With minimal alterations anyone with some sewing experience and a sewing machine can take a 6x1 DB jacket and create a 6x2. The only thing extra I needed was the same color thread and the thick string to create the inside 'buttonhole'. Everything else was already provided on the jacket. It's not a professional job but as you can see it is quite a classy looking jacket.
Feel free to post any questions/helpful comments.






On a sidenote, I recently took my first suit out of storage to take a look at it. It is a 6x2 DB jacket I unfortunately bought about 6-7 years ago. It is a size 42 and wears like a bag. The lapels are small and long, the button stance is low and IMO the jacket is quite ugly when compared to the jacket above.

Thank you guys for showing me the difference between fashion and style. Otherwise I would still be wearing the jacket shown above.
Billy

 

[Dr Doran]

Very, very interesting. I have a good brown DB that's a 6 x 1 as you call it, and a good friend of mine who unfortunately recently died told me that a 6 x 2 DB she saw me in, looked better on me because the 6x1 made my shirt pucker out as though I had a gut. I may try this project.

 

[thunderw21]

As promised, here are some pics.

I was going to wear it today but didn't since it was too hot out and the sleeves never got let down. So after church I just threw it on for some pictures.
Sorry, they're not the best.

Playing with a Flamingo. This photo shows the color best.

 

[Dinerman]

Well- I think it looks good.
If you didn't know you converted it, you'd never know.

 

[Orgetorix]

Well, it does look big in the chest and shoulders, but not as much so as I expected it would.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Thank you, Billy

I have several 6/1 DBs and I've always wondered whether a 6/1 to 6/2 conversion could be done without the help of an experienced tailor. You have shown us just how it is done! Thank you.

Now, the only thing holding me back from trying this myself is the buttonhole. My wife's sewing machine doesn't have the automatic buttonhole feature. This site offers a brief description of how to make a buttonhole manually. I think it would take a great deal of practice to be able to create a professional-looking buttonhole.

Indeed, all of my suits have the keyhole-type buttonhole (below right)

This seems way beyond my expertise. Can anyone offer advice on buttonhole making for the amateur?

 

[Jerekson]

Wow, that looks very, very nice.

I actuall jus tparchased a wonderful-looking modern DB...it's a 6x1 though and I really hate the 6x1 look so I hardly ever wear it...

Maybe some alterations ae in order. You've inspired me, nice job

Oh I love that hat btw

 

[Dr Doran]

Wow, that looks very, very nice.

I actuall jus tparchased a wonderful-looking modern DB...it's a 6x1 though and I really hate the 6x1 look so I hardly ever wear it...

Maybe some alterations ae in order. You've inspired me, nice job

Oh I love that hat btw

I have many 6x1 DBs. And I agree that 6x2 looks sleeker. Is this the only reason why there is a preference for the 6x2?

 

[Orgetorix]

I have a 4x1 Polo RL brown flannel suit that's quite vintage-looking, but the button stance is too low for my tastes. So I took it to the tailor, and he's going to move the buttons, add a buttonhole, and re-press the lapels so the upper button is functional as well.

Here's the before picture:

I'll post photos when it gets done.

 

[thunderw21]

I have several 6/1 DBs and I've always wondered whether a 6/1 to 6/2 conversion could be done without the help of an experienced tailor. You have shown us just how it is done! Thank you.

Now, the only thing holding me back from trying this myself is the buttonhole. My wife's sewing machine doesn't have the automatic buttonhole feature. This site offers a brief description of how to make a buttonhole manually. I think it would take a great deal of practice to be able to create a professional-looking buttonhole.

Indeed, all of my suits have the keyhole-type buttonhole (below right)

This seems way beyond my expertise. Can anyone offer advice on buttonhole making for the amateur?

Mr. Wolfman,
Keyhole buttonholes can be very difficult but are possible. It takes some time and patience. My most important word of advice would be to take your time. You might want to practice a few times on some scraps, especially if you are using a machine (I recommend using a sewing machine for this job).

I used two different zig-zag stitches for the keyhole buttonhole on my jacket. The section circled in red above was done by using a very long but narrow zig-zag stitch. On this part I did not have to move the jacket at all, the sewing machine does the work for you.
The rest of the buttonhole you must do all of the work. I used a short and narrow zig-zag stitch. The straight sections are easy but the circular part you will have some trouble with. You must turn the jacket in order to make it curve and you need to know how large of a curve you need. Like I said, take your time on this part, you may have to go back and redo it (I had to twice).

Once you're happy with the stitching job carefully make a cut in the buttonhole and you're done.
Hope this helps you.


Orgetorix,
I'm looking forward to seeing your jacket after the alterations.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Mr. Wolfman,
Keyhole buttonholes can be very difficult but are possible. It takes some time and patience. My most important word of advice would be to take your time. You might want to practice a few times on some scraps, especially if you are using a machine (I recommend using a sewing machine for this job).

I used two different zig-zag stitches for the keyhole buttonhole on my jacket. The section circled in red above was done by using a very long but narrow zig-zag stitch. On this part I did not have to move the jacket at all, the sewing machine does the work for you.
The rest of the buttonhole you must do all of the work. I used a short and narrow zig-zag stitch. The straight sections are easy but the circular part you will have some trouble with. You must turn the jacket in order to make it curve and you need to know how large of a curve you need. Like I said, take your time on this part, you may have to go back and redo it (I had to twice).

Once you're happy with the stitching job carefully make a cut in the buttonhole and you're done.
Hope this helps you.

Thank you for the advice and encouragement. I have a 6/1 DB that I never wear. It would be good for a first try.

I think I'll save this project for those long cold winter nights before the fire in January.

 

[kodama]

Hello thunderw21

I intend to PM you but cannot.

Could you upload again pictures about your "project", i'm currently intending to do the same on 6x1.

Regards;