Dating Woolrich Coats

[Dinerman]

The Woolrich hunting coat is a classic. Still produced today, it has changed very little over the past century. This can make dating your vintage Woolrich coat a challenge. Adding to the confusion, Woolrich used different variations of the basic label in their print advertising which did not correspond to ones used in their products. This guide should help clear up some of the mystery.

 

[Dinerman]

Woolrich used Talon zippers on some of their products, which can be used to aid in narrowing down your garment's date of manufacture. On coats, they were sometimes used on the game pocket. Jackets had them down the front. Breeches sometimes featured zippers up the legs, and pants on the fly. Zipper designs can be cross-referenced in other threads on the topic.

The design of the snaps on Woolrich coats changed around the time of WWII.

Pre-war design


Post-war design


Around the time of the change to the simplified label, the design was dropped from the snap altogether, and coats came with plain black snaps.

Earlier coats have an asymmetrical pocket design. With some exceptions, by the 1950s, this was changed to both being the same.

Asymmetric pockets


Symmetrical pockets (on a zipper jacket). Button front jackets followed the same configuration.

 

[simonc]

You know Dinerman I really appreciate you posts - I was tempted the other day to pick up some 30's matching jodhpurs/hunting pants in the same fabric with lace up legs, the right boots and the right jacket and Bob's yer uncle. Do you have any insights on the lower half?

 

[Dinerman]

The labels seem to hold true for the bottoms as well. This is probably the best starting point for dating.

There are four basic styles that Woolrich produced, with variations within each design. Flared breeches with lace up legs, elastic bottomed hunting pants, regular full length pants, and bibs.

The breeches were the earliest style produced. Some were made just with laces, others with a combination of laces and talon zippers. Although the earliest design, these breeches continued being produced alongside the other models after the other types were introduced. Button fly models are earlier than zipper fly models.

The bibs and full length pants seem to be less common, and generally more modern. Another note- it seems to have been relatively common to have mis-matched sets. Older jacket, newer pants, newer jacket older pants, mismatched plaids. It was a matter of utility and of cost. If one or the other wore out and had to be replaced, a deer isn't going to judge your sartorial sense.

I can't say I've seen woolrich labeled elastic bottomed pants from the 1930s, but I have seen other makers with that same design from that era, so it's a definite possibility they existed that early. Although I don't see them currently on their website, I have seen this style with one of the current style labels, so it was produced up until fairly recently.

 

[simonc]

Deer o deer you are an awesome young man.

 

[Dinerman]

After a great deal more research, I've gone back and revised, updated and expanded the information in the original post.

 

[Dinerman]

Mid-late 1930s

 

[Dinerman]

Mid 1930s. House label for VL&A

 

[Dinerman]

Mid 1930s

 

[Dinerman]

WWII era

 

[Dinerman]

Early 1930s. Extremely early John Rich label


Mid 1930s. Note slight difference in snap design.

 

[Dinerman]

Early '30s Woolrich Breeches

 

[AlaskanAttitude]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231193345228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Just stumbled on your guide, and it's great! I am curious to hear when you believe this Woolrich label is from. It is very similar to the earliest one you have, from the early 30's, but without the " John Rich and Bros" lettering on top. Do you have any photos of labels from Woolrich clothing pre 1930? Thanks for your help!

 

[Dinerman]

Mid '30s. That's a label they only used on shirts, not on coats or pants.

 

[AlaskanAttitude]

[Awesome, thanks for answering my question!

 

[Dinerman]

Mid-late 1930s Woolrich 255, a particularly rare model.


1940s Woolrich 603, the button pocketed version of the more common 503

 

[Dinerman]

Late 1950s-early 1960s in solid red

 

[Ernest P Shackleton]

In your studies, have you paid any attention to Woolrich thread and stitch quality? I've now owned two White Label (circa 1980s) jackets, and the thread quality is weak. One is more like a jacket/shirt, the weight being a little heavier than a Pendleton Outdoorsman model, and the other a buffalo plaid hunting cruiser. I owned the jacket/shirt new, and within a couple uses, the pocket flap tore half off from snagging a small branch. At the time, I thought it was strange that a minor snag like that would so easily, and so significantly, damage what [I thought] was a hearty piece of outdoor wear. Many years later, I picked up the cruiser. When pulling the cuffs down, like we all often do when first putting on a jacket to adjust the shoulder material, I nearly tore one of the cuffs off the sleeve. I like Woolrich. I appreciated their price-point in the market. Nevertheless, I've been thoroughly disappointed with the construction of these garments. Neither was made with tough upholstery thread or good, durable cord. These jackets have both been far less rugged than your average dress shirt. I feel it necessary to carry a small mending kit when I wear them.

How do the other eras compare? I like the no-non-sense style of Woolrich, but I'm hesitant to add anymore of their clothing to my closet. I use them in the outdoors. I expect them to actually perform in the field.

 

[Dinerman]

Every pre-60s black label Woolrich coat I've handled has been built like a tank. The earlier you can find, the thicker the wool and the better the construction. And they can be picked up inexpensively to boot.

The newer ones, like you say, just aren't the same as the vintage models.

 

[Dinerman]

Mid-late 1930s 255