Dating Vintage Stetsons by Liner: A Field Guide

[Joshbru3]

We've had a couple of examples of the same hat body and sweatband with a liner and a tip sticker so my suspicion is that it was a retailer/wholesaler choice. Not sure if original price was a variable. Some hats are definitely lighter weight, like the vented Derbies, and obviously wouldn't be lined.

Thats very interesting rlk. I really hope this issue gets examined further, but then again we never may know for sure anyways.

 

[DarkAudit]

Just picked up a Nolton off of eBay. I haven't seen much on the history of this particular model.

The liner:

The band crest:

The box still has the store tag on it. Original list was $70.

 

[Lefty]

I'd go as far back as late 70s on that one, but I'm guessing that's an 80s hat.

 

[barrowjh]

the Liner

I wish we could isolate the date of that liner (DarkAudit); that is the liner in my only OR until this past Friday when I pounced on this BIN ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180556615805&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT )
The OR that I have with that liner was definitely NOT a top-shelf hat, and had caused me to think ORs were lousy hats for a year or so. I eventually figured out that it was just my OR that was lousy, as I have seen and touched some really superb ORs over the past year or so (three FL events I have attended). Thus, the reason I have been stalking ORs and pounced on that BIN to land a nicer example for my use.

 

[DarkAudit]

Here's the label off the box if there's a clue there:

 

[jimmy the lid]

I'd go as far back as late 70s on that one, but I'm guessing that's an 80s hat.

I agree -- I think that's 80's at the very earliest (the printing on the sweat also figures into this conclusion).

John -- Congrats! Looks like you scored a 50's OR. You will be able to tell the difference...

Cheers,
JtL

 

[carouselvic]

Dec 12 1949

 

[Salty O'Rourke]

Just picked up a Nolton off of eBay. I haven't seen much on the history of this particular model.

The liner:

The box still has the store tag on it. Original list was $70.

I have that same liner/band in this hat:

I've always thought it was from the late 90s. After reading in the Nostalgia thread, I think this may be the first incarnation of the Nostalgia, with the bound brim, that was discontinued several years before the current model was released. I have nothing firm to go on other than the dimensions and the description that Besdor gave in the Nostalgia thread. If I'm right, that would date this liner to the 90s/early 2000s.

 

[barrowjh]

Answer JTL

Yes, even though no beaver in it, still, really nice felt - soft and so easy to work with. Just enough strength to hold shape, very nice, and this is a tan rather than the silverbelly color; I really like the color and the fit.

the hat has been cleaned and blocked in its past; the liner is now glued in (the original would have been stitched in) and the sweatband is taped at the back seam. 2 3/4 inch brim. I like the way this one fits; the proportions, color, and feel are just right.

 

[hatophile]

Very nice, Barrow.

 

[gholla]

Sue, I am soooooooooo jealous! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

One day, I'll find my own 30's hat, and I'll keep it all to myself, I will!

i want a hat like this one day too....

 

[jimmy the lid]

Hey, John --

Missed your reply the first time around. Glad you're liking your vintage OR! For purposes of this thread, you can see that the liner is consistent with mid-50's, as is the printing on the sweat. A Royal DeLuxe OR from that era is a damn nice lid. Congrats!

Cheers,
JtL

 

[barrowjh]

Thanks, JtL. I am interested in your thoughts on my post #30 about the 'Western Ranch Outfitters' catalog
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...ern-Ranch-Outfitters...winter-1956-1957/page3
the catalog states that $20 Sovereigns are 'best quality beaver' and this price is equal to (sometimes more than) 3X beaver hats. Granted, the 7X clear beaver hats carry a $50 price more than double that of the Sovereigns, so it is difficult to believe that both are all beaver - the difference being the quality of beaver and finish of the felt only. So I am thinking that the Sovereign probably had at least as much beaver content as a 3X in those days, maybe more, but was probably not all beaver. But, maybe am wrong - could there have been that much difference ($20 vs $50) between two all-beaver felts?

If so, then the 7X would have been strictly from the belly area (and from carefully selected animals), and must have been through a more severe sorting routine. Based on what we saw at Winchester, maybe some of that price differential would have been for the extra time it would take for such a fine beaver fur to settle onto the spinning cone, as I remember Greg stating that the beaver just takes forever because it is so light in comparison to hare or rabbit.

 

[gtdean48]

... So I am thinking that the Sovereign probably had at least as much beaver content as a 3X in those days, maybe more, but was probably not all beaver. But, maybe am wrong - could there have been that much difference ($20 vs $50) between two all-beaver felts?
...

Remember JB that the "Beaver 25" was in there between the Sovereign/20 & the 7X CB/50. It was touted as "fine beaver fur soft felt"...

 

[rlk]

I also believe the Sovereign,Royal, Royal DeLuxe are the lighter non-"Western weight" felts while multi-X come in standard and Western weights.

 

[Mobile Vulgus]

I also believe the Sovereign,Royal, Royal DeLuxe are the lighter non-"Western weight" felts while multi-X come in standard and Western weights.

That makes sense. From all my looking on ebay I've noticed that all the Stetsons with the multiple X's are set up as westerns.

 

[zetwal]

Additional discussion on Stetson quality designations -

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...ot-Think-Tank-quot/page4&highlight=think+tank

 

[jimmy the lid]

Thanks, JtL. I am interested in your thoughts on my post #30 about the 'Western Ranch Outfitters' catalog
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...ern-Ranch-Outfitters...winter-1956-1957/page3

John --

I do have some thoughts -- but, in order to keep this thread on the track of dating vintage Stetsons by liner, I'll respond over in the "catalog" thread...

Cheers
JtL

 

[Rodkins]

Can anybody help with this one? After reading this thread I would guess late 50's?

 

[jimmy the lid]

Rodkins -- The colored medallion liner is certainly consistent with early 60's, and may extend back into the very late 50's, as well. I think a timeframe of 1959 - 1964 for that lid would not be far off.

Cheers,
JtL