Dating Outerwear by zipper design

[navetsea]

thanks for these amazing information Dinerman, from its photo that zipper slider+ puller design is surprisingly so close to modern day reversible jacket zipper

 

[Dinerman]

Prentice


Several different variations on the early Talon design

 

[Dinerman]

Early fantail Talons

 

[IXL]

Dinerman, about what years would these posted just above, represent?
Thanks.

 

[mr_lits]

Here are a couple of later Talon Deco Fantails. The one on the right is REALLY small, I can barely get a grip on the pull. It is only 17' long and I would suspect this would have been for a ladies garment.

 

[Dinerman]

My fantails are mid 1930s. Mr_Lits, that small one of yours was sold by Talon as being designed for light jackets and sweaters, while the grommet one was the largest size they offered at the time, and was sold for heavy coats. I've seen those small ones show up on belt-back gabardine jackets and westernwear from that era.

 

[mr_lits]

westernwear huh... Thanks for the tidbit, I figured you would know. Recently came across this cool ZIPP zipper, German in production I think. Maybe you can tell me a bit more about it.

 

[Dinerman]

1928-1932 transitional Hookless/Talon. Probably from the early end of that with the back markings

 

[Jägernaut]

Say Dinerman, would you happen to know the time period that this conmar was produced? Did it predate the conmatic of the same shape? Thanks.

 

[Jägernaut]

Anyone have any knowledge of these zips?

 

[Mysteryo]

Serval Zippers were located in a clock tower?!:
http://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/u-haul-clock-tower-revitalization-in-flushing-queens

 

[Peacoat]

Dinerman. This is an excellent thread. Thanks for the research and for posting it. I'm glad it is in the Guide section. Great resource information.

 

[Monitor]

Signed and seconded - fantastic thread! And yes, thank you for the excellent research & info, Dinerman.

Also, if I may ask, any idea about this one?





And this chain pull. I'm guessing Talon also?

 

[AeroFan_07]

Agree with the earlier comments, very informative and I sure appreciate your thorough research here!

 

[Dinerman]

I'm not as reliable with the larger Talons, they did come into use during WWII but largely didn't disseminate into fashions until the 1960s (though there were some exceptions, like the paperclip pull large zip on early '50s Durables, etc). That chunky Talon is probably '70s. The ring pull on the pocket could be Talon, but for the most part by that point they had switched to the Talon branded oblong dangle-thing. It's just as likely to be unbranded by a different manufacturer in a similar style.

 

[Monitor]

I'm not as reliable with the larger Talons, they did come into use during WWII but largely didn't disseminate into fashions until the 1960s (though there were some exceptions, like the paperclip pull large zip on early '50s Durables, etc). That chunky Talon is probably '70s. The ring pull on the pocket could be Talon, but for the most part by that point they had switched to the Talon branded oblong dangle-thing. It's just as likely to be unbranded by a different manufacturer in a similar style.

Thank you very much, Dinerman! Info much appreciated.

You're right on the chain pulls as I can't find any branding on 'em, albeit they're very much like the Talons on my other jacket. I've compared them to the ones with the Talon logo and there's virtually no difference. Very nice zippers in any case.

 

[shopvelour]

Talon pocket zipper styles. Can anyone pin down some more definite dates on these? The dates I have are of the jackets they're off of, with the dating based on other factors.

Top row, with Talon branded slider. 1930s Ball pull, 1930s ring pull, 1940s/1950s diamond pull
Bottom row, with round instead of rectangular attachment to slider. 1950s Ring pull, 1960s/1970s modified ring pull, 1960s/1970s teardrop pull

I'd say you're right on with that top right diamond pull. Here's one I just picked up.

 

[tmitchell59]

Nice to see all these zippers again! I often refer to dinnerman For zipper aging, his work is the best available resource.

John Chapman at goodwear refers to a Japanese author in regard to a zipper dating. I don't know the resource or how to contact it.



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[robrinay]

Do you have any idea of the probable age of this Coats CLARK zipper? It’s one of several on a vintage leather garment bag I’m restoring? I got it cheap as the main zipper is shedding teeth so I plan to replace the tape and hopefully transplant the original puller.

 

[ShadowBoxer]

Duplicate(ish) question.
I just picked up an older jacket (supposedly from the 1960s with Conmatic cuff zips, but who knows...) with this short main pull. I am used to the longer, spelled out "Coats Clark" version and was wondering if this short "CC" one was older, newer or just a smaller option.

I notice that mine is a slightly different shape.