Dating and restoring this Sears Hercules FQHH jacket

[diecianni]

Hi there!

I recently picked up this vintage Hercules jacket. I was interested in particular because it's advertised as FQHH, but when it arrived I was surprised to find it considerably lighter than my Aero Highwayman jacket (also FQHH).

I love the patina on it, but it feels like it needs some real TLC. The 'coating' on the leather seems to be a little flaky in places.

I've never cleaned/conditioned a leather jacket before. After doing a quick search on here, it seems there's lots of information, but if anyone has any specific tips based on the photos shared - please do tell!

I'm also curious how old it is. Based on the label, I'd guess 1950s, but if anyone with more knowledge can shed some light, that would be great.

Thanks!

 

[tmitchell59]

This is a mid 50s Hercules made by Roughwear Clothing Co. The Horsehide tag and construction are the clues. It will not have the feel of a new Aero horsehide. This was a "fashion" jacket, not intended to be heavy leather.

I own this same jacket several years ago. It has an unusual back design that I have not seen on another Roughwear jacket. The cuff straps are sorta out of fashion when this jacket was made. Gives it an older look.

 

[Monitor]

Hi there!

I recently picked up this vintage Hercules jacket. I was interested in particular because it's advertised as FQHH, but when it arrived I was surprised to find it considerably lighter than my Aero Highwayman jacket (also FQHH).

I love the patina on it, but it feels like it needs some real TLC. The 'coating' on the leather seems to be a little flaky in places.

I've never cleaned/conditioned a leather jacket before. After doing a quick search on here, it seems there's lots of information, but if anyone has any specific tips based on the photos shared - please do tell!

I'm also curious how old it is. Based on the label, I'd guess 1950s, but if anyone with more knowledge can shed some light, that would be great.

Thanks!

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First, thoroughly wipe it down with a towel to remove dust, grime, etc. after which you might condition it though I honestly don't know what with as not much seems to do anything at all.

Applying any of the grease based leather conditioners will darken it & considerably so by the look of it. Since the finish has degraded enough so that the fibers are exposed (you can see this plainly on a collar but most of the jacket is like that), don't use anything greasy which means neither petroleum nor wax based conditioners. Otherwise, the effect will be the same as applying, say, Pecard's, to a suede.
Good water-based conditioner in a spray might do the trick and if not, at least it won't damage the jacket.

If you don't mind dyeing the jacket, Kiwi shoe creme is all you need as it's got everything leather needs.

Lovely jacket, in any case.

 

[Marc mndt]

it's advertised as FQHH, but when it arrived I was surprised to find it considerably lighter than my Aero Highwayman jacket (also FQHH).

FQHH doesn't indicate anything other than which part of the hide was used.

Your Highwayman is probably made out of CXL horsehide which is a combination tanned leather (that's stuffed with waxes as part of the process). The Hercules jacket is most likely made out of chrome tanned leather which is much lighter than CXL because it doesn't contain any waxes.

Judging by the wear on your left sleeve it looks like someone artificially aged the jacket, probably using sandpaper. You can't replace the sanded off topcoat but you can make it more uniform in color, for instance by applying shoe cream like @Monitor suggested.

 

[Monitor]

Judging by the wear on your left sleeve it looks like someone artificially aged the jacket, probably using sandpaper.

Good eye. I thought the wear seemed artificial but I know they definitely haven't been doing that back when the jacket was made. Looking at it, the jacket might've been used as a movie costume. That's exactly how the distressing looks like. . .

 

[diecianni]

Thanks for all the informative replies! I love hearing about the jackets history. I’ll look into the shoe cream approach.