Custom Russell Moccasin Boot in brown Horween CHXL from OFJ...Pic heavy

[JanSolo]

Hello everyone!

Last week I drove once again down to see the guys at Original Flightjackets ( www.original-flightjackets.com ). When I left here it was raining cats and dogs but when I arrived at the depot the weather had become much better.
It also seemed that I arrived just in time to take a look at one of their latest additions to their product range.
Only a couple of hours before I arrived they'd unpacked these little babies. I just had to take a couple of outdoor pictures...

From what I understand Sascha (owner and founder) had been asked by a number of long time customers if they would be willing to add another boot/shoe manufacturer (apart from Red Wing, Thorogood, Trabert etc.) who was offering something along the lines of Red Wing but with significantly higher quality, more comfort and unique features in both design and construction.

Well, I don't know if the actual quality i.e. finish, precision of seams etc. is much better on these than on a pair of Red Wings but certainly this Russell boot is MUCH more complicated and lavish in both construction and choice of materials.

Some of the features I remember:

- True moccasin boot entirely hand crafted from Horween Chromexcel that will wear and age beautifully
- Triple vamp construction for a firm and rugged boot that will virtually last forever
- Full leather lining that is almost seamless, forming sort of a waterproof "sock" inside the boot
- Thick heavy weight oak tanned leather mid sole
- Vibram 4041 Christy Wedge sole for a classic look and good comfort

In this picture you might see some similarities in design between the classic Red Wing 875 and the OFJ Russell boot:

But if you take a closer look it appears that the 875 is just the Russell's shoddy and peaky cousin from the poorhouse. The RW feels like a flimsy and super lightweight sneaker in direct comparison...

Some remarks on the moccasin construction: While the Russell boot might share some design features with the Red Wing 875 or 877 you cannot compare them in the way they are made. They are totally different shoes. The Red Wings are Goodyear welted, meaning uppers, midsole and some internal parts are connected by a small leather strip via stitching which is called welt - a classic high quality method of making shoes.

The OFJ Russell boot in comparison is a true moccasin... in this case a super sturdy triple vamp moccasin. Which means that the uppers actually wrap around your entire foot, the vamp forms the insole aswell. If you would remove the leather midsole and the Vibram outsole you would still end up with a fully functional boot. Actually this is the way the Native Americans crafted their shoes...

Here is a pic that shows how a (much softer and lighter) single vamp moc is made (sorry for the German description):

The OFJ Russell is triple vamp all the way through meaning that along with the lining you have at least 4 in the heel area 5 layers of leather! That explains why the Russell weighs at least 50% more than a comparable Red Wing boot... It's like a 877 on steroids!


Here are some more pics of the boots and some of the leather accessories OFJ offer. All made by Scott Willis exclusively for OFJ...all made from either Horween CHXL horsehide or Horween ESSEX (steerhide tanned and processed the way shell cordovan is made).

The boot is not on their site yet but will be added soon.

Hope you've enjoyed this little write up...

 

[simonc]

Fantastic write-up Jan, really helpful explanations too. I am so glad that they are lined, I am assuming in some kind of calf skin. I will be ordering a pair. Nice one.

 

[Grayland]

I like the 2 tone leather on the boots. The glasses holder/protector is very cool and I assume the "portfolio" is designed to hold a standard Moleskine pad? Damn - your posts always cost me money!

 

[handymike]

I just discovered the Scott Willis site this weekend...
http://dontmournorganize.com/
Awesome stuff and workmanship. As well as decent prices.
Jan you always do fantastic write-ups....

 

[Tomasso]

Great review! It should also be mentioned that Russell have a modestly priced refurbishing program that will make it a challenge to outlive your boots.

 

[ButteMT61]

Jan, most excellent write up! I'd love to see you wearing those with some jeans and khakis. They look very comfortable and well made from here. Just superb!

 

[wdw]

I don't normally like moccasins but these look class. I like the look of the Russell website too, with all the options.

I hope there might be a UK distributor.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Thanks Jan, I really enjoy your pictorial reviews...thanks for the effort that goes into them.

 

[Graemsay]

I think that you have to order them through the Russell site, which involves taking down various measurements of your feet.

There's a thread over at the Iron Heart forum, which is worth a look:

http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=951.0

I like Russell moccasins, but the quality can be a bit variable. A good pair, such as those posted by Jan, are fantastic. But others have slightly raggedy edges.

If you're after something from the UK then a few places carry Quoddy. Oliver Spencer and End Clothing have a few shoe styles in stock, and will probably have boots come the autumn.

http://oliverspencer.co.uk/quoddy-moccasins
http://www.endclothing.co.uk/brands/quoddy

Liberty's in London also have Quoddy, and I'm really gutted that they didn't come up big enough when they were in the January sale.

End also carry Yuketen, as do Superdenim.

http://www.endclothing.co.uk/brands/yuketen
http://www.superdenim.co.uk/yuketen-denim.asp

 

[bburtner@moran]

Great Russell boot`s! I have a pair of birdshooters for 28 years!

 

[Ishmael]

Great boots! Great write-up! The Russell boots are really built like tanks. Was very surprised the first time I picked one up.

Also, really like the custom pinking under the top collar. Haven't seen that before.

 

[JanSolo]

Thanks guys!!

Unfortunately I wasn't able to wear them around the shop. I just stepped into them for a moment and they felt very comfortable and soft due to the thick boot-like leather lining. The lining material Sascha requested is called Aquatan, a very soft and smooth, yet durable water repellent cowhide.

The detailing on the boots is very good. Here are two more pics:

 

[simonc]

They are really nicely made Jan, glad you mentioned the lining, thanks again for the post, I have contacted the company and asked what other soles they can offer, I'm a little tired of the white sole.

 

[budrichard]

Both my son and I have Russell 'Birdshooters', mine are custom made and my son picked his out of the returns they get for customs that are rejected, all you do is go to the shop/store and try on boots to see if they have a pair that fits, about 1/3 discount.
Russell's is really old old school shoe manufacturing, I've been there many times and the office is right in the work place. No overseas sweatshop but decent hard working people making boots at workstations and of course the smell is all leather.
The boots if fit correctly are magnificent, the moccasin construction is like wearing slippers all day.
My advice is go to the shop and be fitted there, next of course is measuring which may or may not work, hence the returns.-Dick