Custom Leather

[dep126]

My apologies if this has already been covered, but I didn't find anything specific doing a search. I've been on the hunt for that 'perfect' leather jacket and have decided to go the custom route. I've found this forum to be great resource in finding some of those companies who do custom work. I was thinking there could be a dedicated thread which lists places who do custom work. I'm sure there are some real hidden gems out there who do great work which are relatively unknowns. Here are the ones I've found so far.

www.flightjacket.com
www.johnsonleather.com

I know there are plenty more which I'm not aware of.

 

[WolfeMan]

And now, we will begin hearing about the virtues of Aero Leather.
Wolfe

 

[Jeff M]

Yep.
Aero;

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/...ry= AERO JACKETS&page=displaysubcats&catid=36

And Langlitz;

http://www.langlitz.com/index.html

(Way more custom offering shown on their Japanese site);

http://www.langlitzjapan.com/custommade.html

And Vanson;

http://www.vansonleathers.com/

More to come I'm sure.

Can't speak for all of these folks, but I know with Aero if you have something specific in mind but don't see it/something similar on their sites, you can contact them and send them a photo of what you are thinking of they will tell you if they can make it for you.

From experience, Aero and Langlitz are great to work with. Haven't had enough contact with Vanson to form an opinion.

 

[apba1166]

Another Idea

...Pakistan.
If you want a complete custom job, every aspect, with about 10 measurements--especially if you are considering naked/topgrain cow, there are a couple outfits in Pakistan, like Horten Int'l, that will source great leather if you request it, and do the work and walk you through it all very nicely...for about 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of the big boys, shipped.

Otherwise, you should add Langlitz. And best to be there in person if you can.
I have a Johnson, it's ok for the price, but the people at Langlitz really like challenges and won't let you go wrong.

--Mark
P.S. one more place that will go all out for you: Fog City Leather, also in SF

 

[JLStorm]

If you want "perfect" and you need custom. Id go directly to Aero in Scotland. Other manufacturers Ive contacted either charge a significant premium for custom work (ie 50% additional) or they just arent setup to efficiently handle customer orders.

Although Ive been hearing more and more about langlitz. The high prices in the US are comparatively similar to Aero now that the exchange rate sucks again.

 

[JLStorm]

And now, we will begin hearing about the virtues of Aero Leather.
Wolfe

You have any better suggestions? Im sure everyone would love to hear of some better options.

 

[TheSnark]

You have any better suggestions? Im sure everyone would love to hear of some better options.

The better options have already been listed. To anyone not really set on Aero FQHH, both Vanson and Johnson Leathers are an even match for Aero quality. Langlitz quality is superior to Aero by a clear margin, as is Lost Worlds.

 

[JLStorm]

The better options have already been listed. To anyone not really set on Aero FQHH, both Vanson and Johnson Leathers are an even match for Aero quality. Langlitz quality is superior to Aero by a clear margin, as is Lost Worlds.

You just opened a can of worms lol. Im totally not touching that one.

 

[TheSnark]

You just opened a can of worms lol. Im totally not touching that one.

Heh, heh. Yeah, maybe I should change my handle to "The Heretic". But the truth is that the one thing that puts Aero above a lot of others is their FQ horsehide (which I certainly agree is outstanding, and available nowhere else). Aero's quality of craftmanship is very good... but not the best available when graded by objective standards.

 

[Seb Lucas]

It's cool to hear about non-Aero stuff for a change.

 

[dep126]

...Pakistan.
If you want a complete custom job, every aspect, with about 10 measurements--especially if you are considering naked/topgrain cow, there are a couple outfits in Pakistan, like Horten Int'l, that will source great leather if you request it, and do the work and walk you through it all very nicely...for about 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of the big boys, shipped.

Otherwise, you should add Langlitz. And best to be there in person if you can.
I have a Johnson, it's ok for the price, but the people at Langlitz really like challenges and won't let you go wrong.

--Mark
P.S. one more place that will go all out for you: Fog City Leather, also in SF

I had never heard of Horten. The website is pretty basic and doesn't list prices. Have you had a jacket made from them? What's the verdict on leather and work quality.

And thanks for the info on Fog City. Never heard of them either.

 

[apba1166]

Horten

A friend had a thin olive naked-cow jacket that I asked about. A bit western in style. Like a blazer but with five buttons and a yoke. He works in merchandising and they source run-of-the-mill stuff from them, nothing you would want. However, he had them make this jacket custom, based on a cloth design from another manufacturer. Beautiful---but then he knows the trade, knows them, and what to ask for.

Much later I found their website, while scrounging for a vest, and ordered 2 vests, custom fit---who's going to make a custom vest for you here w/o you paying some extreme amount? The fit and fiinish were excellent. They said they could copy any jacket design, just give them specs. Most of the standard ones (B-3, A-2, and son on) are on their site. Keep in mind, their stock=and-trade, like Korean jackets, is thinner stuff, perhaps because of climate, so you'll want to spec the weight of the leather, and I wished I spec'd the lining. There's no place on their order forms for that, but they are responsive in email.

I'm going to have them make me a shirt. Last thing I need is another jacket.

 

[kaosharper1]

Indy Magnoli does nice work.

 

[apba1166]

Let me add...

...that I wouldn't necessarily get a jacket from Horten or Korea to duplicate a stock item from a manufacturer of excellent repute, in order to save a few hundred dollars----they will never match it to your real or perceived satisfaction: but in the case where the customization to a manufacturer's stock item means $500 of changes or re-thinks, or even more from scratch....then I think Horten is a good alternative for a ground-up build.

 

[Tony No-Toes]

Good Langlitz Leathers resource

This Japanese site offers a good cross section of many things Langlitz Leathers has made over the years....The best resources by far for Langlitz and others are Japanese.
http://translate.google.com/transla...lywood&hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS343US343&prmd=iv

 

[Tony No-Toes]

Other Langlitz resources

Go here too for Langlitz info and detailed shots. The Japanese take great quality shots with a more detail than most will offer. THEY ARE REALLY INTO THEIR LEATHERS and there are many sites that offer great detail...

http://langlitzjapan.seesaa.net/

http://langlitzjapan.com/index.html

 

[jon z]

There's a couple of FL members who build jackets to very high standards that may be willing to take on a commission.

1st is fishmeok who now has his own website

http://superiorjackets.com/?p=532

2nd is himelator who has a very extensive vintage jackets blog

http://vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.com/

Other than that I would look to Lost Worlds over Aero

http://www.lostworldsinc.com/

And also Goodwear who's jackets are about as good as they get but I'm not sure custom jackets are catered for

http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/index.html

 

[WalkingBoy]

newbie

Hi there, I'm a new fellow to these pages and I was eager to make mention of Aero. Years ago I thought Aero were the bees knees, and made wish lists of their jackets, especially the Windward and later the TrailRider....but, and this will be heresy to many, Aero aren't that great. Sure the horsehide they use might be unparalleled (as i've read here ) but they're things that don't stack up to scrutiny. For one, build quality worry's me: lacks finese and sensitivity, attention to particular details. Looking at close ups of the seams and stitching, pocket details, to me seems a bit heavy handed. Stitching seems to be an after thought, and not integral to the final 'look n feel' of the jacket. The seams are also too chunky, particularly given Aero's claims to be 'authentic' repros of the Hercules - Windward stable of styles. The original jackets, especially the civilian jackets made by small local tailors used much finer stitch patterns closer to the edge of the seam, creating a distinctive raised 'line'.
A few days ago I found a used Aero in a thrift shop in London..a highwayman, in Steerhide. I was surprised by how poor the quality of the hide was: all over the shop...mushy bits for the sleeve sections and and very grainy bits for the front panels, which pulled this way and that. And the stitching along the seams was more than 10mm apart.
Okay I'm being overly picky and critical, sure, but hey, I don't think they're the real deal anymore.
I held off buying one, for years unconvinced...until I talked to John Chapman at Good Wear last year. Very fine workmanship, probably the best in my opinion. His attention to detail, right down to using the right needles and machine parts to get the right seam look ...its total dedication . And his website has a genuine sincere 40's period feel to it. Beautiful.
I designed a version of an early 'Californian' which he's making and later a 1920's early zip front as well.
So I think Good Wear is the benchmark. Or.. if you want bullet proof or just proof....

 

[Seb Lucas]

You're a brave one, Walkingboy.

I don't much care for Aero myself but you can't accuse them of being badly made (your thrift shop jacket may not be genuine and if it is, who knows what it went through?). But something tells me you're just shit-stirring, so have fun, son. I've seen all the photos too and handled several Aeros. They are a premium quality garment, just not to my taste.

 

[Dav]

Hi there, I'm a new fellow to these pages and I was eager to make mention of Aero. Years ago I thought Aero were the bees knees, and made wish lists of their jackets, especially the Windward and later the TrailRider....but, and this will be heresy to many, Aero aren't that great. Sure the horsehide they use might be unparalleled (as i've read here ) but they're things that don't stack up to scrutiny. For one, build quality worry's me: lacks finese and sensitivity, attention to particular details. Looking at close ups of the seams and stitching, pocket details, to me seems a bit heavy handed. Stitching seems to be an after thought, and not integral to the final 'look n feel' of the jacket. The seams are also too chunky, particularly given Aero's claims to be 'authentic' repros of the Hercules - Windward stable of styles. The original jackets, especially the civilian jackets made by small local tailors used much finer stitch patterns closer to the edge of the seam, creating a distinctive raised 'line'.
A few days ago I found a used Aero in a thrift shop in London..a highwayman, in Steerhide. I was surprised by how poor the quality of the hide was: all over the shop...mushy bits for the sleeve sections and and very grainy bits for the front panels, which pulled this way and that. And the stitching along the seams was more than 10mm apart.
Okay I'm being overly picky and critical, sure, but hey, I don't think they're the real deal anymore.
I held off buying one, for years unconvinced...until I talked to John Chapman at Good Wear last year. Very fine workmanship, probably the best in my opinion. His attention to detail, right down to using the right needles and machine parts to get the right seam look ...its total dedication . And his website has a genuine sincere 40's period feel to it. Beautiful.
I designed a version of an early 'Californian' which he's making and later a 1920's early zip front as well.
So I think Good Wear is the benchmark. Or.. if you want bullet proof or just proof....

Everyones entitled to their opinion, it wouldn't do for us all to like the same manufacturer would it.