Custom hat fitting

[riothamus]

A question for those of you that have ordered and received custom hats in the past. I just recently received a hat from a hatter. It doesn't matter who, as it has happened before from a different hatter.

I measure my head several times and get a measurement of 22 1/4 or 22 3/8. The hatter gets that measurement and I get the hat back. The hat is loose on the sides, almost loose enough for my pinkie finger to fit. However, when I run a piece of tape around the inside and measure it, I get the size I gave as a measurement.

Another hat I bought from a member, who said the hat was a true 22 1/4. This hat fit perfectly to just a touch tight when I first got it and fits very well now that I've worn it a lot. Running a piece of tape and measuring it gives me 21 3/4.

What gives? Like I said, this has happened with two different hatters. I admit that the very first time I ordered a custom hat there were mis communications between me and the hatter and I measured wrong (too low on the back of the head).

So for you more experienced people out there, should the inside of the sweatband be my head size or what? Why are the hats so loose on the sides of my head? One thing I've never determined is if I'm a long oval and if that would affect hat sizing.

I'm not trying to bash any hatters, which is why I'm not mentioning names. I just want to figure this out so I can finally get a custom hat that FITS.

Thanks!
Riothamus

 

[Mulceber]

Probably means you've got a narrow head and that why you've got the space on the sides - you've got the right size but the wrong shape. -M

 

[Salty O'Rourke]

Sounds like you could need a long oval, but also bear in mind that if you tilt your hat rather than wear it "level", the fit could be off. Using a tape gives you the measurement "on the level", but it may actually be a little different depending on the tilt. I have hats that fit perfect tilted one way but seem too big/too small if I wear them level or tilted the other way. Not to say that you have a lopsided, lumpy head you understand....

Some custom hatters will send you a conformer to get the true shape of your melon; did the hatters you've dealt with use similar devices?

 

[Mobile Vulgus]

Riothamus. Yes, I am not sure if you know that there are different widths. A long oval sounds like what you need.

 

[Preacher Man]

Riothamus, I'm a 24 1/2 inch head, (head like a coal bucket) and I'm a long oval. Sounds like you are too.

 

[BanjoMerlin]

Sounds like you have a long oval (or maybe extra long oval) head. That could be throwing off your measurement.

I found that when I measured my long oval head (with or without help) it was coming out bigger than it should have. Most of the "how to measure" instructions say to take the measurement at the side of your head but I get an accurate reading when I take the measurement at the front (forehead). When I take it at the side the measurement is around 3/8" to 1/2" bigger.

 

[DRB]

If you are wearing the correct circumference size, and it presses front and back while leaving gaps at the sides, you are a LO, long oval.

Round oval is 5/8 inch longer than it is wide
Regular oval is 1 3/8 inches longer than it is wide This is what I wear
Long oval is 2 1/8 inches longer than it is wide
X-Long oval is 2 7/8 inches longer than it is wide
XX-Long oval is 3 5/8 inches longer than it is wide
XXX-Long oval is 4 3/8 inches longer than it is wide

 

[suitedcboy]

I think the tape measuring thing is more difficult to achieve accuracy in with some head shapes. I have a lot of taper in my skull and a slight up or down placement of tape gives different numbers. Wear your best fitting most comfortable hat and then take it off and have someone help with tape positioning on the hat hair ring left after the extended wear.
My bet is that where you are measuring and where you actually carry a hat on your skull are not the same and is giving differing measurements.

 

[CRH]

If you are wearing the correct circumference size, and it presses front and back while leaving gaps at the sides, you are a LO, long oval.

Round oval is 5/8 inch longer than it is wide
Regular oval is 1 3/8 inches longer than it is wide This is what I wear
Long oval is 2 1/8 inches longer than it is wide
X-Long oval is 2 7/8 inches longer than it is wide
XX-Long oval is 3 5/8 inches longer than it is wide
XXX-Long oval is 4 3/8 inches longer than it is wide

I'm curious where you found this information, DRB. What hat size are these numbers for?

I'm looking for info like "Regular oval is x% longer than it is wide."

 

[DRB]

Craig, I got this information from the Fedora Lounge. I don't know where the link is to it. I copied it to my MS Word Document file because I thought it might come in handy.

 

[scottyrocks]

Some custom hatters, such as Art Fawcett, I believe, send you a measuring device that looks like something out of a 1950s sci-fi flick. It looks like thing that was put on the Frankenstein monster's head during the electrical storm of the creature's birth. It is placed around your head and has a bunch of in-and-out screw adjusters that give the exact size and shape of your head. Theres pictures around of this thing. Maybe someone has a link.