Custom Aero leather jacket

[Rwarren]

Hello all, this is my first time posting. I’ve been fiendishly reading through posts on here for awhile now in regards to a custom leather jacket from Aero. I have placed my down payment and currently have a sheene fit jacket on its way. I have been very torn by what leather I want to choose. I’m currently torn between Vicenza or badalassi. Currently my debate centers around how VC ages vs Badalassi, I have seen a couple aged photos of Vicenza where it looks horribly wrinkly, I know many people like this but it doesn’t appeal to me. Badalassi on the other hand she’s more gracefully from what I’ve seen, but it’s squeak is a major turn off for me, that and I want a black jacket and badalassi black while pretty, looks like someone tried putting a mirror shine on it, it’s very shiny, and I don’t know how much or how fast this fades with age, if at all.
Im hoping some aero veterans in here can help answer some of these questions! Beyond that, thanks to everyone who’s posted all of the great info on FL that’s allowed me to learn as much as I have so far

 

[Canuck Panda]

You can ask for smooth Vicenza. I have both smooth ones and veiny ones. I prefer the latter but smooth ones are available.

Badalassi is the “better” leather. Most oily leather will squeak a bit. Badalassi is one of the nicest example out there.

 

[Aloysius]

I asked for smooth Vicenza on a jacket. It still very much has grain, just tight grain. Sometimes I regret requesting it, but at the time I’d just seen some Vicenza jackets that looked like a scrotum and I knew I didn’t want that on mine.

I quite like the look of it. But I must tell you, as midweight Aero leathers go, the secret best option is the goatskin. It feels more luxurious than anything else and nothing ages more gracefully, however like Badalassi it has a definite sheen to it, so it might not work for you.

I would think that, for your purposes, a smoother black Jerky or black/blackened brown Vicenza would do the trick.

 

[MrProper]

I have Vicenza, Badalassi and Horween steer.
Badalassi is my favorite. The squeak gives way to a creak after a short time and that also becomes quieter and less over time. I find it less dramatic than I had feared after the reports here. The shine fits top to the black and makes the jacket cooler than the rather matte Vicenza.
The Badalassi is great to the touch. A bit waxy and oily and soft, although it is stiff.
Vicenza in comparison feels rather dry to the touch, if that makes sense.
If you don't like grain, I would consider Horween steer, which is a bit smoother and less shiny. It's not a midweight leather then, but I don't think it's that big of a difference from Vicenza and Badalassi. The Horween is more like Badalassi than Vicenza.

Edit:
Maybe the Horween would really be something for you. No squeak, smoother, a little less shine, even a little more waxy to the touch and there are many good examples that this ages well.

Bottom Badalassi, middle CXSH, top Vicenza. Unfortunately, all of them shine the same in the picture. In fact, the Vicenza is the most matte.


Badalassi:


CXSH:


Vicenza:


Badalassi and CXSH

 

[Tom71]

Goat doesn’t get “horribly wrinkly”. Even after years of use. Might be something to have a look at , as @Aloysius suggested.

I’ve had my black Badalassi jacket for two years now, and while shine and squeak both lessen, they don‘t really go away. Great hide though all around.

Only have one jacket in Vicenza hide. Just not a fan, but I’ve since heard many times over that there are beautiful batches.

Personally, I am a big fan of Horween CXL horse. Doesn’t get “wrinkly“ (rather “wavy”), but will show massive aging. Not everyones taste, and some find it a pain to wear as it re-stiffens in cold weather.

 

[Rwarren]

Thank you all for your feedback, cxl does seem like a decent option, the only thing that worries me is how fast it shows through with the brown when you get it in black. But realistically how fast does that even happen? I think if the squeak is going to stay I may steer clear of badalassi even though it is beautiful, I know the noise would dissuade me from wearing it as much. Also, if I requested a thick batch of Vicenza with less grain maybe that would help? As far as goat, the pebbly grain isn’t something I’m looking for on this specific style of jacket, to me it has a more refined look and I’ve heard it takes many, many years for it to really show any patina, which I do want some patina.

Lord I feel like I have a million questions

 

[MrProper]

cxl does seem like a decent option, the only thing that worries me is how fast it shows through with the brown when you get it in black.

I had a CXL HH in black and that took a long time until the brown came through. And that actually only on the sleeves.
But today I definitely prefer CXL steer. This is a good alternative to the Badalassi. Is softer than HH and wears more comfortable. From the touch a little waxier / oilier than Badalassi.

CXL HH

 

[MrProper]

What's interesting by the way... both the Badalassi (Lochcarron lining, satin sleeves) and the CXSH (Moleskin lining) weigh 2.65 kg. The Vicenza (cotton drill) weighs 2.25 kg. From the thickness of the leather, the Badalassi seems minimally thicker to me.

 

[Fonzie]

In my experience, one of the nicest ones of Aero HH leathers and still strangely very underrated around here is jerky HH.
It’s almost like a perfect compromise between the nicest characteristics of Vincenza and CXLFQHH combined.

 

[IrishStu]

I agree with @Fonzie. I had a hooch hauler made from jerky HH and it was excellent. I now have a PHWM in Vicenza and the drape on it works for me. My last CXL HH was a barnstormer, which I had for 20 years. It was a brilliant coat but when cold the leather would always stiffen up.

 

[Mickiemac]

I have Vicenza, Badalassi and Horween steer.
Badalassi is my favorite. The squeak gives way to a creak after a short time and that also becomes quieter and less over time. I find it less dramatic than I had feared after the reports here. The shine fits top to the black and makes the jacket cooler than the rather matte Vicenza.
The Badalassi is great to the touch. A bit waxy and oily and soft, although it is stiff.
Vicenza in comparison feels rather dry to the touch, if that makes sense.
If you don't like grain, I would consider Horween steer, which is a bit smoother and less shiny. It's not a midweight leather then, but I don't think it's that big of a difference from Vicenza and Badalassi. The Horween is more like Badalassi than Vicenza.

Edit:
Maybe the Horween would really be something for you. No squeak, smoother, a little less shine, even a little more waxy to the touch and there are many good examples that this ages well.

Bottom Badalassi, middle CXSH, top Vicenza. Unfortunately, all of them shine the same in the picture. In fact, the Vicenza is the most matte.
View attachment 482758

Badalassi:
View attachment 482762

CXSH:
View attachment 482760

Vicenza:
View attachment 482759

Badalassi and CXSH
View attachment 482761

Vicenza in comparison feels rather dry to the touch, if that makes sense.

Your comment about Vicenza is exactly what I thought when I got my Aero Type III in Navy Vicenza back in mid Sept 2022. The leather looks very touchable but does have a dry 'like' sensation when handled. The jacket has incredible grain and I am more than pleased with the jacket overall. I have treated it with some light leather conditioner (which didn't darken the caramel stitching) and it seemed a bit softer but over time the leather went back to it's original feel. Also the CXL SH is exactly as you say - I have a 2016 LHB in Cordovan SH and that leather is top notch!

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Hello all, this is my first time posting. I’ve been fiendishly reading through posts on here for awhile now in regards to a custom leather jacket from Aero. I have placed my down payment and currently have a sheene fit jacket on its way. I have been very torn by what leather I want to choose. I’m currently torn between Vicenza or badalassi. Currently my debate centers around how VC ages vs Badalassi, I have seen a couple aged photos of Vicenza where it looks horribly wrinkly, I know many people like this but it doesn’t appeal to me. Badalassi on the other hand she’s more gracefully from what I’ve seen, but it’s squeak is a major turn off for me, that and I want a black jacket and badalassi black while pretty, looks like someone tried putting a mirror shine on it, it’s very shiny, and I don’t know how much or how fast this fades with age, if at all.
Im hoping some aero veterans in here can help answer some of these questions! Beyond that, thanks to everyone who’s posted all of the great info on FL that’s allowed me to learn as much as I have so far

Hi friend, the best way to find your preference it to handle the jacket built with the leather of interest. Samples don't do it imo. Looking for a 2nd hand jacket is a good learning experience, you may even find one you love to wear while your waiting on your custom to be built

 

[Jasonindenver]

Judging by the Sheene, I suspect you are going through Thurston. If so, ask about jerky Horse or battered steer.

 

[Rwarren]

So as far as Jerky HH is concerned, does it form to your body well? Or does it remain stiff like CXLHH? I have also not been able to find a nice aged jerky HH picture in here or really anywhere, I’d be interested to see how it ages! I also have been considering that a sheene in brown CXLSH may look amazing and would be as versatile as a black jacket… this process is making me realize why so many people here have several leather jackets, there’s just so many options. Again thank you all for your time and advice, it is helpful!

 

[Aloysius]

In my experience, one of the nicest ones of Aero HH leathers and still strangely very underrated around here is jerky HH.
It’s almost like a perfect compromise between the nicest characteristics of Vincenza and CXLFQHH combined.

This is all the fault of the now-defunct “Aero USA” which came up with the terrible Jerky name that Aero has inexplicably kept using. I didn’t even consider it with my first order because of that awful name.

Why would you name this beautiful British leather full of character after completely dried out meat that’s a chewing exercise?

 

[Rwarren]

This is all the fault of the now-defunct “Aero USA” which came up with the terrible Jerky name that Aero has inexplicably kept using. I didn’t even consider it with my first order because of that awful name.

Why would you name this beautiful British leather full of character after completely dried out meat that’s a chewing exercise?

This made me laugh, but it is so true, it is not good marketing. I can’t find aged pictures anywhere either so it makes it really difficult for me to want to pull the trigger on it, or even consider it.

 

[MrProper]

So as far as Jerky HH is concerned, does it form to your body well?

Regarding Jerky, I got the following statements from Aero:

"We no longer stock oil pull horsehide, but do have jerky. This is a mid-weight leather, which is a tea-core leather (as CXFQHH is) which means its tanned on a lighter base which will begin to show through with age."

"Jerky – vegetable based dye, crust is dyed in UK, tea core base, shows more red tones over time when breaking in."

"whereas jerky almost bounces back to it’s shape so never really moulds."

 

[Rwarren]

Regarding Jerky, I got the following statements from Aero:

"We no longer stock oil pull horsehide, but do have jerky. This is a mid-weight leather, which is a tea-core leather (as CXFQHH is) which means its tanned on a lighter base which will begin to show through with age."

"Jerky – vegetable based dye, crust is dyed in UK, tea core base, shows more red tones over time when breaking in."

"whereas jerky almost bounces back to it’s shape so never really moulds."

That answer my question perfectly. Leathers that done drape we’ll scare me a bit due to my build. I’m 5’7” and I workout a lot, 165 pounds, 42 inch chest and 32 inch waist, if things don’t drape they tend to be really really boxy and unflattering on me.

 

[Aloysius]

That answer my question perfectly. Leathers that done drape we’ll scare me a bit due to my build. I’m 5’7” and I workout a lot, 165 pounds, 42 inch chest and 32 inch waist, if things don’t drape they tend to be really really boxy and unflattering on me.

I think you’re confusing things. Sharp moulding and drape are not the same thing, much the opposite really.

 

[Rwarren]

I think you’re confusing things. Sharp moulding and drape are not the same thing, much the opposite really.

I suppose this shows how little I know about this stuff still. Not a lot of practical experience with leathers, more so just what I read.