Custom Aero Cossack

[Graemsay]

My somewhat modified Aero Cossack is just being finished off, and I got sent a couple of photos by Amanda so that I could decide on button placement.

Since there seems to be an Aero fan club around here, here's a sneak preview:

The jacket's a Cossack with a double breasted, button-up front. It's a size 52, with an extra 2" in the arms and body, and 4" pulled out of the waist.

It's had a couple of adaptations for motorbike riding (I'm thinking of learning): A kidney protection pad has been added, and the collars have concealed, A-2 style snaps to prevent them from flapping at speed.

 

[rjbaal]

Yes, I'd say that's a "somewhat' modified Cossack! I got mine last week and its great. What was your inspiration for the mods you made?

 

[Graemsay]

The double breasted fastening came about because I wanted to avoid a zip. My previous Aero used a Talon, and that's broken twice, the second time just before I put the order in...

I saw a similar jacket about sixteen or seventeen years ago, and regretted not buying it at the time. I've never seen anything similar until I came across this photo on the Lounge.

That's one of Belly Tank's jackets, so I probably owe him.

The other inspiration was Charlie Price's jacket from 3:10 to Yuma. (Which I still haven't seen, as it doesn't seem to have been released here in the Netherlands.)

 

[BellyTank]

Nice one, Graemsay.

That's quite some modification.
Very different from the original Cossack.
And a very Vintage, European style.

Glad to be of service.

B
T

 

[Graemsay]

It's Arrived!

I got home tonight to find a large parcel from Scotland.

Here's the jacket from the front, unbuttoned:

Buttoned:

And from the back:

I'm not 100% sure about the fit right now. It's fine over the shoulders, as there's space to fit a sweatshirt underneath, but there's a lot of loose material through the body. I asked for 4" to be removed from the waist, and I think that I could lose the same again.

That being said, I went up a size because my old Hercules felt a bit tight across the shoulders when I wore it during the winter. I might have lost a bit of weight since then, which would normally be a good thing...

I'll wear the jacket for a bit and see how it goes once it's broken in. If it's no good, I'll sell it on, and order a smaller one. Or eat lots of pies.

Other than that, I don't have any issues with it, except it's now too warm to wear!

 

[jamespibworth@n]

Love the jacket.

Sorry, but I have to agree about your concerns over the fit, it’s just too big!

I would suggest that if you are thinking of retuning it to do so soon and not wear it anymore so Aero can re-sell it easier.

I had a special order jacket made myself, which was too small, and Aero were more than happy to make a larger size for me.

James.

 

[Graemsay]

Thanks James.

The trouble is that I need a big size to fit around the shoulders (my old one was a size down, and too tight). Unfortunately British clothing companies tend to assume that anyone needing a large size will have an equally large gut.

The fit's a lot better with a (thick) jumper underneath, and Aero can take it in around the waist. So it might not be a complete lost cause.

 

[sydneydude]

Hi,

This is a truly beautiful jacket. A bit to big, but better to big than to small, it can be adjusted :eusa_clap

SydneyDude

 

[BellyTank]

Cool.
But a bit big all round.

If it were mine, I'd have Aero look at these photos and adjust it- they should feel at least a little obligation to get it right. I think the jacket is spilling off your shoulders a bit much. Maybe get the sleeves shortened a tad, maybe they could take some bulk out of the body by putting a couple of pleats/darts into the half belt at the back- so that it would have a bit of a waist and an even more vintage-ey look. It's a shame the belt isn't actually on the waist. Taking some bulk out will cause issues with the side pockets. They should be able to tweak it somehow.

You have pies in the Netherlands..?
Moving from London to Denmark(and Sweden) left me without pies...


B
T

 

[Graemsay]

Thanks again for the feedback and suggestions.

I think that the sleeves will shorten a bit with wear, as the jacket creases up. We'll have to see, as I might be a tad optimistic. :Cutting some of the bulk out will help too. I think that this can be done.

Otherwise I'll have to hope that there's a really enormous reader of the Fedora Lounge for me to sell it to.

I'm afraid that there aren't any pies in the Netherlands BT, so my opportunities for filling out the jacket are severely curtailed. However, I do think that Sweden and Denmark are far nicer than London, so you had some compensation!

 

[feltfan]

What color is that? Cherry? Cordovan?

I note that on BT's 30s jacket the buttons are
spaced further apart at the top than at the bottom,
which accounts for some of its appeal.

Did you send them your measurements? If so, I
think you should return it.

52 is probably even too big for me. sigh.

 

[rmrdaddy]

Graemsay,
What are your real-life measurements?
Height, Weight, Chest Size, Dress Shirt arm length, Waist?

 

[Graemsay]

All these are approximate.

Height: 6'3" or 6'4".

Chest: 47" relaxed, 49" expanded. (Without clothes.)

Waist: 36" or 37"

Weight: 230 - 235 lbs.

I'm not sure of my sleeve length.

Basically what happened is that I own a size 50 Hercules (with an extra 2" in the arms and body), and that's too tight across the shoulders and chest. (However, I might have lost a bit of weight since I last wore it.)

So I discussed sizes with Aero, and I ended up ordering a 52 with 2" extra length, and 4" pulled out of the waist. These were based on the fit of the 50.

In retrospect, the 52 is better across the shoulders than the 50, but the 50 is better from the top of the rib cage down. (With a jumper on, the 52 is about the right size across the shoulders.)

EDIT: Feltfan, the jacket's cordovan. I believe that cherry is a lighter and brighter shade. (Are you trying to get it off me already? )

 

[rmrdaddy]

All these are approximate.

Height: 6'3" or 6'4".

Chest: 47" relaxed, 49" expanded. (Without clothes.)

Waist: 36" or 37"

Weight: 230 - 235 lbs.

I'm not sure of my sleeve length.

(Are you trying to get it off me already? )

Yeah, that jacket could fit me too......

 

[Graemsay]

So that's why everyone's so keen for me to send it back. lol

 

[Copper]

Count me in for approximate fit too...

Looks great!

 

[feltfan]

EDIT: Feltfan, the jacket's cordovan. I believe that cherry is a lighter and brighter shade. (Are you trying to get it off me already? )

Ha. Not at all. Just curious about that leather color for
a purchase some months or years down the road. I'm sure it's
too long for me in any event. I will admit that I had considered
having someone copy BT's 30s jacket. Probably not Aero, though.

I haven't purchased a new leather jacket in something like 15 years
and I'm getting a new one this month. So we'll see how long
it will be before the next one.



...much less than 15 years I'd guess.

 

[feltfan]

Graemsay,

How is the fit?

And have you had any experience with the famous
Aero cordovan dye leakage problem?

 

[JLStorm]

I have the same problem with ft! I have a similar chest size and a waist size that is about 2" larger, but Im only 5'9" which makes sleeve lengths about impossible in standard size jackets. I wear a 50 or 52 as well, but the main problem is my arms and shoulders more than my chest . Im most probably ordering a custom barnstormer soon from Aero, but even with custom fitting, there is only so much they can do without altering the pattern of the jacket from what Im told.

It may be that people like us either need to deal with the tight or baggy, or buy complete custom made/cut...I cant afford the latter.

 

[Feraud]

Im most probably ordering a custom barnstormer soon from Aero, but even with custom fitting, there is only so much they can do without altering the pattern of the jacket from what Im told.

Just wondering.. if they are doing a custom fitting, shouldn't the measurements you provide be do-able?