Cult Classic Outerwear

[spdfg]

I am seeking some recommendations for “cult classic” outerwear pieces (items that are unique to a brand or designer). Basically pieces that come back regularly in multiple seasonal collections or are considered a staple classic for a brand.

As a point of reference, my current collection includes: Private White Twin Track, Nigel Cabourn Cameraman, Engineered Garments Bedford, Arny’s Forestiere, Valstar Valstarino, Universal Works Baker Jacket, Rocky Mountain Featherbed Christy Vest, Fay Fireman Coat, Aspesi M-65, Filson Cruiser, Rogue Territory Supply Jacket, Baracutta Harrington, Gloverall Duffle Coat, Belstaff Trailmaster, Schott Perfecto, LVC Cossack Jacket.

Nothing too formal (i.e. overcoats or sportcoats) or too fashion forward (i.e. most pieces from Kapital or Junya Watanabe). Essentially pieces that straddles the casual and formal divide well (i.e. items that can be dressed up a little).

 

[handymike]

If I follow correctly, maybe Mister Freedom Road Champ boots, Trickers Stowe brogue boots or shell cordovan Alden/ Florsheim Imperial longwing brogues, a Lewis Leathers Lightning or Dominator, some version of a Lee 101 or a LVC Denim jacket, an N-1 (no stencil), and a RRL hand-knit shawl collared sweater in a Navajo print (or the maroon one with the black cat patch) should be somewhere on your list.

P.s. Don’t forget about hats, Sun-surf shirts, and Vans for other occasions!

 

[Blackadder]

A McGregor Drizzler, Carhartt Detroit jacket, Dehen racing sweater and varsity jacket, Brown's Beach vest

 

[handymike]

Yes, the 1/4 zip Dehen sweater, but for me- I like the "jersey" without the ribbing at the bottom

 

[EAC]

Some that come to my mind that have not already been mentioned:

Vetra french chore coat (pictured, but Le Mont Saint Michel is a valid alternative)

Pendleton wool shirt (not exactly outerwear, but can easily double as such)

Woolrich Arctic Parkas can easily be dressed up in somber colors

Alternatively, the iconic Nigel Cabourn Everest Parka, while very expensive and more casual, is the best I know in the down jacket category in terms of quality alone:

If you want another golf-style jacket (maybe a different color than the Baracuta) try the Grenfell golfer (pictured) or the PW Harrington, both iconic:

Barbour Beaufort (pictured) are easy to dress up, but the shorter Bedale may be more versatile and iconic

Finally, I agree with handymike that a Lee 101 or LVC trucker would be an excellent choice for denim outerwear; I would also add the Mister Freedom Ranch Blouse to the list:

It is a bit more expensive and more of a 'modern classic', but it is iconic of the brand and available in many versions (currently 9 in cotton and 3 in leather). I do not know if they restock, but MF has been adding more fabric options (multiple denim ones) in the last years.

Hope this helps.

 

[erikb02809]

Might not be a good fit for the more vintage oriented focus of the FL, but it's not so far off that I feel like it's completely out of place to mention Triple Aught Design's (TAD) Interval Denim jacket. It's basically a cafe racer jean jacket, and as far as I know, unique to TAD. They've been a regular part of TAD's lineup since 2017 (I think? Maybe 2016). https://tripleaughtdesign.com/produ...MI88a8i_G0-QIVlojICh07JAxMEAQYASABEgKjJfD_BwE

I've owned one since spring 2018 and it's my favorite non-leather jacket I own. They occasionally will release versions in alternative colors or denims too - I just picked up another one up in black last spring. Here's a pic from the designer's online portfolio of one with some patina developing.

http://www.collierbrands.com/work

 

[Bamaboots]

RRL pearl snap western in chambray or dark wash denim.

 

[Monitor]

Some that come to my mind that have not already been mentioned:

Vetra french chore coat (pictured, but Le Mont Saint Michel is a valid alternative)

View attachment 443103

This is literally like wearing scrubs & cosplaying as a doctor.

 

[EAC]

This is literally like wearing scrubs & cosplaying as a doctor.

Yeah, I can see that; I think it is the picture and the fact it's brand new.

I do not like their look either, chore coats in general are not for me, but I see a bunch of people wearing and enjoying them.

Here's an example of a famous photographer who wore a french chore coat on a daily basis:

I prefer vintage, more worn-in versions, I think they look better.

 

[Monitor]

Yeah, I can see that; I think it is the picture and the fact it's brand new.

I do not like their look either, chore coats in general are not for me, but I see a bunch of people wearing and enjoying them.

Here's an example of a famous photographer who wore a french chore coat on a daily basis:

View attachment 443303

I prefer vintage, more worn-in versions, I think they look better.

Honestly, this is the first time I'm seeing this thing being worn outside a factory or some such workplace but perhaps I just wasn't paying attention. But the fact that these guys are asking 250 Euros for one is nuts.

Here's mine that I was issued 15 years ago while working on a cargo train depot. It's from 1970's and they had a million of them, just handing them out to whomever appeared for work. I don't even know why I kept it, maybe for house choirs but I never once thought about wearing it casually.

 

[EAC]

They are more popular outside of the repro/amekaji niche of menswear and this helps driving the prices up. True French vintage originals, usually made out of moleskine fabric, are sold for more than that.

I too find the price a bit high, but again, it's a style I do not like and the demand is there.

I understand better your point now. I guess a Vietnam War veteran could say the same about field jackets and fishtails, or a construction worker on used Carharrt pieces being sold for hundreds of USDs to fashion enthusiasts.

 

[Blackadder]

Honestly, this is the first time I'm seeing this thing being worn outside a factory or some such workplace but perhaps I just wasn't paying attention. But the fact that these guys are asking 250 Euros for one is nuts.

Here's mine that I was issued 15 years ago while working on a cargo train depot. It's from 1970's and they had a million of them, just handing them out to whomever appeared for work. I don't even know why I kept it, maybe for house choirs but I never once thought about wearing it casually.

One of the reasons is that the price of vintage American workwear has been driven up beyond the reach of the general crowd. The vintage dealers therefore turned their attention to the French workwear since they can find boatloads of these at a very low price. I saw stacks of these in Japanese vintage stores at Koenji. The 2nd hands are being sold for around 50 bucks at those Koenji shops. Still a pretty profit and yet affordable. That started a trend.
A trend means they are now in the fashion realm, being sold as everyday casual wear and not uniform.
It really isn't much of a surprise because these aren't that different from LVC 1920s sack coat from a few years back. I don't remember the SRP of the LVC's sack coat but it is probably more than 250.

 

[Edward]

They are more popular outside of the repro/amekaji niche of menswear and this helps driving the prices up. True French vintage originals, usually made out of moleskine fabric, are sold for more than that.

I too find the price a bit high, but again, it's a style I do not like and the demand is there.

Definitely market driven. Of course, the whole "authenticity" thing also applies to drive up the price, it's just here that it's a different thing than the usual labels and place of manufacture voodoo that impresses us in these parts. Same principle, though. Quite a few repro labels making these now here in London - much more expensive than the originals would have been new (as distinct from buying a vintage original; I think increasingly the vintage and repro markets have diverged).

One of the reasons is that the price of vintage American workwear has been driven up beyond the reach of the general crowd. The vintage dealers therefore turned their attention to the French workwear since they can find boatloads of these at a very low price. I saw stacks of these in Japanese vintage stores at Koenji. The 2nd hands are being sold for around 50 bucks at those Koenji shops. Still a pretty profit and yet affordable. That started a trend.
A trend means they are now in the fashion realm, being sold as everyday casual wear and not uniform.
It really isn't much of a surprise because these aren't that different from LVC 1920s sack coat from a few years back. I don't remember the SRP of the LVC's sack coat but it is probably more than 250.

Yeah, these chore coats have been all the rage for the last two or three years. I have a couple in very similar designs - though mine are Sainsburys' TU label, and neither was over twenty quid new. Very practical, throw on easy, nice alternative to denim.

I've never been hung up on the 'cosplay' thing with them tbh, but then if any French workmen want to have a go at me for being a faker, they'll have to join a long queue behind the WW2 pilots and all the rest. Some 1940s bikers wanted to have a go at me about my engineer boots, but they got waylaid by some old traindrivers having a go at them over the same thing...

 

[Will Zach]

^^
Funny! I started imagining a nonexisting scene from Monty Python with French workers in blue chore coats going after a Brit faker. "Your mother was a hamster and your father smelled of elderberries"...

 

[handymike]

Here’s a chore jacket from 1901 by Benn Greenwood with a pair of 1890s Can’t Bust ‘Em jeans

 

[ojaw]

Since no one mentioned handsome or debonair, I’ll throw the Tilley Hat into the ring.

 

[dwilson]

It seems like for a year or so everyone on the planet wore an Apolis indigo wool chore coat

 

[handymike]

I have one in wool and one in denim!
They’re so great!

 

[dwilson]

Yeah I really like the design of the Apolis ones. It probably took off because it is a more tailored and wearable chore coat as opposed to the ones above which look a bit too work-y for most people who were into the workwear aesthetic years past.