Cross Zip wiggle room/extra room

[Damon141]

I’ve been contemplating a cross zip, maybe from Five Star, something I can get quickly but not from one of the types of makers with advice.

I wanted to know how much room in the Chest and bottom hem you go for, this will be worn open ost if the time. I can figure out how shoulders and sleeves should be from this jacket.
I know to go against instinct on length and go as short as possible, I like the way it looks when it just covers the belt. So being the cafe racer is 25” I might end up with 23”-24”, in length for my 5’9”, 1.75 meter

I know people say 3” room for a close fit, but does that apply to the hem too? It would be great to zip it up and cinch the belt if it had one and not have loose leather.

The Pit2Pit on my only fair fitting jacket is about 25”, up .5” from when received.

Length on this is 25” from rear collar base

Bottom hem is 20.5”

Actual chest is 46.5” widest point
Waist is 36” where I picture a well fitting cross zip ending.

I guess I just worry it would be too loose if I used the same measurements. The photos of me wearing it make the jacket look tighter fitting than it is, my wife can actually grab a good 1.” - 1.5” extra material under the arms with my arms up slightly.

 

[Pandemic]

I go +1” in the chest p2p (37.5” chest, so I spec a 39.5” chest) and +.5” at the opening when measured over a belt (ie, I’m 33” measure over a belt so I go for 34” on a jacket). My next cross zip will be a tad slimmer than this - but I plan to wear it over a tshirt and open all the time.

 

[Damon141]

Thank you. I just know a zipped up baggy cross zip doesn’t look as good as a tight fit. I think they even look good tighter on guys that are heavy in the midsection, maybe the double layer of leather works like a waist trainer/corset. Just like a good suit can hide body shape.

CR’s can fit right on slim and athletic types but I chose mine a little loose so that I don’t have that sausage casing look. Slim guys pull off both that tight look and looser look. But I just noticed with cross zips, that loose look especially around the midsection and belt doesn’t look good if you decide to zip it up, it starts looking poofy? Is that even a word? like a A2

 

[MrProper]

ie, I’m 33” measure over a belt so I go for 34” on a jacket

Same here. 38“ over a belt, 39 on the jacket.
Depending on the manufacturer, it can be up to 0.5" more.

Chest 44“, jacket 46“
So as an approximation.

 

[Will Zach]

I go +1” in the chest p2p (37.5” chest, so I spec a 39.5” chest) and +.5” at the opening when measured over a belt (ie, I’m 33” measure over a belt so I go for 34” on a jacket). My next cross zip will be a tad slimmer than this - but I plan to wear it over a tshirt and open all the time.

These are very close ease measurements. They look terrific, though, as evidenced by you and @MrProper . Myself, I would not go lower than 2" of ease in the chest (38" chest circumference, 40" minimum jacket circumference under armpits).

 

[Damon141]

You know what is funny is my Himel has stretched about 1/2” in the chest already. Keep in mind it’s not Shinki but instead the Steerhide, but I just thought it strange because it was no where near tight in the chest in the fist place.