Cross zip nation

[navetsea]

I'm considering ordering a customised cross zip, and figured this was a good place for a question:

I much prefer the look of a wind flat that tapers down so that it is very narrow at the bottom, as on the 618 on the left, compared to the strip remaining thick right to the bottom on the 118. Why does this vary? Does the angle there impact anything else? I like it better when the main zipper has more of an angle to it when zipped up. Thanks, chaps!

I think the more slanted the bigger the lapel.

 

[Rich22]

I think the more slanted the bigger the lapel.

Hmm, that's interesting. That would suit me fine.

Having had a close look at a lot of cross zips this week, it seems that relaxed fit jackets tend to have a wider wind flap at the bottom. I don't know for sure if that's coincidental or related to the cut, however.

 

[navetsea]

I think the more slanted the more diagonal the tip of the lapel thus can be folded bigger into a wider lapel. While the less slanted even when off center by much wont make big lapel because there is not much width difference between the upper tip and down the body, you can only fold so much since it would be limited by the neck hole and collar fold, so you have smaller lapel in comparison. More slanted zip wil have more X look when worn open too while straighter zip have more Y look. Make sense for a relax fit to have more overlapping front, it will cover more when worn open for a fuller build person.

 

[Fireflame]

Eastman Roadstar HH Black
View attachment 358218
View attachment 358261
Source: Rin Tanaka "Motorcycle Jackets"

RMC Buco JH-1 HH Brown
View attachment 358219
View attachment 358262
Source: Rin Tanaka "Motorcycle Jackets"

Sweet jackets!!

 

[navetsea]

I got a photo sent to me just now, first time I see it with belt on, dunno if I must go there, the torture is getting harder to see a 99.9% complete jacket and not being able to just wear it home right now, because the buckle is not yet mounted... I would love to just mount the buckle myself if I can bring it home right now, but usually that's not the case.
so I just replied the whatsapp with thumb-up emoticon... and ask for a just a touch of tightness for when the buckle is worn on the 4th hole from the tip.

 

[Robbie79]

I got a photo sent to me just now, first time I see it with belt on, dunno if I must go there, the torture is getting harder to see a 99.9% complete jacket and not being able to just wear it home right now, because the buckle is not yet mounted... I would love to just mount the buckle myself if I can bring it home right now, but usually that's not the case.
so I just replied the whatsapp with thumb-up emoticon... and ask for a just a touch of tightness for when the buckle is worn on the 4th hole from the tip.
View attachment 366403

Great looking jacket as usual and I also can't wait to see fit pics from you! You're lucky that you both have the skills to design your own jacket and an artisan next door to "implement" your jacket projects.

 

[navetsea]

Great looking jacket as usual and I also can't wait to see fit pics from you! You're lucky that you both have the skills to design your own jacket and an artisan next door to "implement" your jacket projects.

thank you, yes my situation is a bit lucky, I can shop for materials online, dye the leather and send them there in person and check from time to time in person to try on, helps a lot to iron out detail and slightest miss communication even when it is a very long process because of other things in between, zipper pulls turned out it was a mockup I need to see before they use my leather... I don't know why they didn't just use the leather 1st try how wrong a zip pull can be and even if, I have plenty of leather left to make a hundred

 

[Mysteryo]

It turns out great! Congratulations!

 

[navetsea]

Finally i have it, here are some photos

Piped pocket welton some, and exposed zip on some.

The leather is 1.3 - 1.4mm veg tan cow natural unpressed leather, i dye it myself with tshirt bun as tool to pat it with black water based dye. The belt is 4mm natural vegtan cow pressed, also dyed the same way.
Hardware are sourced locally, zips are ykk with dual zip on the main, and beige tape on the pocket and cuff.
Twist toggle for the epaulette.

The lining is also gusetted mirroring the outside, it has zipper to access the inside of the jacket for easy repair. It has 8 pockets all functional
the elastic can be replaced once kaput.

Way more wearable brand new compared to my pressed 1.5mm natural vegtan cow last time.

Oh it can stand by itself.

 

[navetsea]

Btw this is also a special details i theorized to help the bottom hem stay round and wont get flatened thus flaring out when unzipped due to the weight of the heavy belt.
I spec this slant side seam

 

[Canuck Panda]

@navetsea Very cool jacket. I like all the details. The smaller lapels for comfort when its zipped. The raw edges will burnish well and it's the first time I've seen it done on a jacket. Just a dash of contrast with the zipper tapes. And the hardware details, the twist lock is definitely a cool way to do the epaulettes than the simple snap. The hand dye job looks great too. Did you wet it down before dyeing it? Grains are showing now. How did you seal the finish? Just wax?

 

[navetsea]

@navetsea Very cool jacket. I like all the details. The smaller lapels for comfort when its zipped. The raw edges will burnish well and it's the first time I've seen it done on a jacket. Just a dash of contrast with the zipper tapes. And the hardware details, the twist lock is definitely a cool way to do the epaulettes than the simple snap. The hand dye job looks great too. Did you wet it down before dyeing it? Grains are showing now. How did you seal the finish? Just wax?

Thank you, the raw edges was decided after i asked that round pocket corner cutout, since it is done there I have to repeat the idea elsewhere too, so it is done on the facing edges and the epaulette, and the belt. It is not totally raw though, since it is varnished and burnished. I hand dye it with cotton tshirt tied into a bun, i pat it instead of smear it. I diluted the dye with water a bit to make it a little more translucent, maybe the water content in the dye already enough to bring out the grain more? After it was dry to touch then buffed the surface with microfiber cloth to get some sheen, and thats it. I will apply final coat once some desirable fade happens, so right now it is not yet coated also to make it possible to touch up the dye seamlessly if undesired fades happen lol, so far i keep this raw, only the edges is sealed. When i bought from the leather the tannery told me they have pressed and unpressed hide, my last jacket the natural tone jacket was made with pressed hide thats why it was very dense and have smooth surface and consistent thickness, this one is only 0.1mm thinner in spec than that but much softer, with natural grains and more variation of thickness across the hide. So i hope the contact points will get faded and burnished smooth to contrast the grainy surface once worn.

 

[roadking04]

Your jacket turned out great. Thanks for taking the time to update us and document the process. I hope we see this jacket many more times in the WJAYWT thread. I bet the hand dying process is going to age VERY well. Great job from start to finish.

 

[navetsea]

^ thanks, I hope it will fade on some part and won't take a decade of single jacket commitment to come to that

 

[Hobbes1]

Finally i have it, here are some photos
View attachment 367208
View attachment 367204
Piped pocket welton some, and exposed zip on some.

The leather is 1.3 - 1.4mm veg tan cow natural unpressed leather, i dye it myself with tshirt bun as tool to pat it with black water based dye. The belt is 4mm natural vegtan cow pressed, also dyed the same way.
Hardware are sourced locally, zips are ykk with dual zip on the main, and beige tape on the pocket and cuff.
Twist toggle for the epaulette.
View attachment 367209
The lining is also gusetted mirroring the outside, it has zipper to access the inside of the jacket for easy repair. It has 8 pockets all functional
View attachment 367212 the elastic can be replaced once kaput.

Way more wearable brand new compared to my pressed 1.5mm natural vegtan cow last time.

View attachment 367210
Oh it can stand by itself.

Cool and unique jacket. Well done and congratualtions!

 

[navetsea]

Cool and unique jacket. Well done and congratualtions!

Thank you! It takes 7 yrs for me to look at crosszip jackets on daily basis here to get to see the light.

 

[Imuricecreamman]

Thank you! It takes 7 yrs for me to look at crosszip jackets on daily basis here to get to see the light.

You have a great eye, man. I'd wear that in a heartbeat.

 

[navetsea]

You have a great eye, man. I'd wear that in a heartbeat.

thank you man

 

[Khilij]

@navetsea Your jacket looks absolutely fantastic! You've got excellent taste.

 

[navetsea]

@navetsea Your jacket looks absolutely fantastic! You've got excellent taste.

Thank you! hope to see evolution of your chopper from daily wear sometime!