Critique my next Aero order - LHB.

[l'oreille]

Hi all, I'm in the process of designing my second Aero jacket. I already have a FQHH Bootlegger with cotton drill lining, which is short and trim, ending right on the middle of my belt. For my next jacket, I was thinking of going for a slightly longer design, with a warmer, thicker lining. I spend quite some time travelling through Europe, often making my way up to Scandinavia, and while the Bootlegger will get me through Belgian winters just fine, I think it might fall short on preventing me from freezing my lower end off in Sweden in February. Being of quite short stature (that's an understatement: I'm 165 cm or 5'5), I think the very long Aero models (Stockman, Cheyenne, Barnstormer) will be unflattering. (Besides, I prefer zippers over button-up coats.) I thought the Long HalfBelt would be a happy medium. Here's what I had in mind so far - as many of you will notice, I've already incorporated several suggestions found in previous Aero threads:

- Long halfbelt model; fit based on the slim 1930s halfbelt. Intended for a very slim fit.
- FQHH, brown (if possible select smoothest hides available)
- alpaca wool lining with an olive drab gabardine lining over it; I believe this is called a "bias lining"? I thought that this would be a happy medium between warmth (the alpaca wool) and durability/lack of itchiness (the gabardine lining over it). I already confirmed with Amanda that this can be done. My only fear is that it would make the jacket *too* warm.
- one inside pocket with button closure on right side of jacket, in the facing
- no handwarmer pockets, but keep the snap-covered front pockets and the breast pocket
- all pockets lined with heavy brown corduroy
- 2" strip of leather on bottom inside of jacket
- brass hardware; brass "ball & chain" zipper for breast pocket
- cuff strap like on the shawl collar barnstormer for a slightly more vintage look (as seen in http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/photos/6184ccde0d905a7f_shawl barn d1 copy.jpg), and hidden storm cuffs inside the sleeves for added warmth.
- throat latch with button closure as found on Cossack model (not sure if this would add a lot of wind resistance, really - I'm still a bit on the fence regarding this option).

I noticed that the LHB comes with a bi-swing back. I'm still not too sure how I feel about that: I don't ride motorcycles, so I don't think that the added reach will do me much good. On top of that, the bi-swing back seems like a fairly recent "invention", and doesn't seem very vintage-y at all. Finally, I'm a bit wary of the "bat-wing" effect that I've seen on Aero's with a bi-swing. In short, I was thinking of switching the bi-swing for a plain back like on the Hercules model. Any comments?

As for the length: my Bootlegger has a 23.5" back length. That fit is absolutely spot-on: the jacket fits perfectly at belt-level. If I had to take a guess, I'd say that the long half belt should be about 2.5 to 3 inches (6.5 to 7.5 cm's) longer - so 26" to 26.5". Does that sound about right to you all, taking into consideration that I'm about 165 cm (5'5") tall?

Any suggestions and comments are very welcome - enlighten me with your knowledge, oh TFL'ers!

PS: apologies for starting two threads on the same day, but this is what happens if one lurks for too long before finally deciding to start posting!

 

[JanSolo]

Sounds like you've done your homework. Basically your spec sheet does incorporate everything that makes sense and what would look good on this specific model. (I get the slight impression that I've started something when I asked Will if it would be possible to put the water repellent olive B10 Gabardine in one of my jackets as a lining...)
Gabardine plus Alpaca plus some dead horse definitely isn't too warm for a winter jacket. The thermal co-efficient of leather is s##t and Alpaca isn't too warm either, so you don't have to be afraid. Your jacket will be no where near as warm as a down parka. I would not recommend to have Alpaca in the sleeves as it would make the jacket too uncomfortable. Go for a combo lining instead: Alpaca with Gabardine overlay for the body and satin for ease of wear for the sleeves.
A narrow one inch internal storm flap might be a good idea to keep draughts out.
If you don't like a full bi-swing back but still want a bit more comfort and reach go for the biker's bi-swing back which is smaller and shorter than standard. Ask Aero, they know what I mean.

 

[Edward]

One thing you might want to consider..... if you want to cope with a full on Scandanavian Winter, you might be better served looking at a less form-fitting jacket style. Bear in mind that in order for a thirties half-belt style to fit 'as designed', you won't be able to fit in a lining of any real thickness, or a sweater on underneath either.... maybe a zip-up version of something like the Cheyene(?) ?

 

[l'oreille]

Cheers for the comments!

Jan: ahem, yes - I think you've noticed that I have taken a fair bit of inspiration from several of your designs. Remember though, imitation is a form of flattery! (I still think that the pictures of your Cheyenne are amongst the best fit-pics of Aero that I've ever seen by the way - hence why I've taken the liberty of delving into some of your design features. Credit where credit is due!)

I didn't know about the smaller bi-swing back, I'll enquire about it with Amanda on Monday. The other thing that makes me a tad reluctant to opt for a bi-swing is the fact that the very design is based on a piece of elastic "popping" the folds back into the jacket when not stretched forward. I've had the pleasure of handling a fairly old Schott jacket a while ago, and the "wings" of the bi-swing back were constantly sticking out, even while not wearing the jacket. I assume that the elastic band between the leather and the lining was worn out, creating a permanent "batwing" effect. Not a very flattering look, I must say.

Edward: you raise an excellent point, and one that I had considered myself. I must say though, that even with the 30s fit on my Bootlegger, I can wear it comfortably with just a shirt, or a shirt and a medium-thickness sweater - which is what I'm usually wearing even in colder climates anyway. Besides, I've hiked through Lapland in winter before, and I'm fully convinced that no leather jacket is going to keep you from freezing in those circumstances. That's when the modern materials come out, I'm afraid: leather jackets lose their appeal to me once the temperatures drop below -10°C. It's more for those "neither here nor there" days that I'd like a warmer LHB. But again, an excellent point, and one that I might have to reflect upon a bit more.

 

[Gancho]

Hello l´oreille,

my LHB is in some things similar to that what you are going to order.
- LHB based on the slim 1930 patter
- Alpaca-garbadine lined
- brown FQHH
- gunpocket

This jacket has the bikers-swing back instead of the bi-swingback. Other specials are the slim down sleeves, and the fur collar. Sleeves are linned with satin covered alpaca. I agree with Jan and Edward. The sleeves are really trim fit and now I would go with somethingelse than alpaca in the sleeve. Before I send back for changing this, I will give it a change to get warn in. The 1930 pattern is really slim fit. In my one I can wear a shirt or a thin sweater, with a pullover it is uncomfortable to wear. With this handicap my jacket is perfect between 0°C to 10° C, open no problem in higher temperatures. Deeper temperatures are no problem for a short moment, but it is not warm enough for a nice winter walk. Instead of the leather buttom linnig I ve a buttom linning in corderay. Will told me that leather is not possible at this kind of jacket. Now I happy not trying to persuade him to do this. The jacket is so trim fit that the leather buttom linning would make the jacket to stiff in this area. At the buttom you need something "slippery" to do not be impaired when the jacket is closed.

If you are going for a "real bi-swing back, order an additional elastic band. I´ve order this for my cafe racer and it is perfect, no wings.

I really love this jacet and be absolutelly satisfied. Perhaps I will change the alpaca in the sleeves next summer.

Here are some pictures on the jacket:

Many regards from northers Germany, 5°C

Oliver

 

[zigmo]

I'm 165 cm or 5'5

As for the length: my Bootlegger has a 23.5" back length. That fit is absolutely spot-on: the jacket fits perfectly at belt-level. If I had to take a guess, I'd say that the long half belt should be about 2.5 to 3 inches (6.5 to 7.5 cm's) longer - so 26" to 26.5". Does that sound about right to you all, taking into consideration that I'm about 165 cm (5'5") tall?

I am 5'8" (172cm) and Aero suggested the recommended regular half-belt jacket for me would be about 25" back length for my height. So I suspect the long half-belt length in my case would be 28 - 28.5 inches (if adding 6.5-7.5cm).

So, if you account for our height differences (3 inches) and the different back lengths respectively; the math works out.

Not sure if that's helpful

 

[Peacoat]

Good post Gancho, thanks for the review. The idea for an extra elastic strap (it would actually be two extra straps) is a good idea. I never thought of that--probably because Aero and Vanson use heavy straps--but as the years take the toll on the elastic, the extra straps will be helpful. I have some motorcycle jackets with weak elastic, and the swing back has already started to relax.

 

[Bonneville]

Hello l´oreille,

my LHB is in some things similar to that what you are going to order.
- LHB based on the slim 1930 patter
- Alpaca-garbadine lined
- brown FQHH
- gunpocket

This jacket has the bikers-swing back instead of.....
Oliver

Thats one fine looking jacket Gancho, I really like the biker's bi-swing choice. Can you tell me which of the pictures are more true to colour when out in the sunshine? ....the dark top pics or the lighter brown bottom pic?
My samples suggest the darker but hard to say from a small piece under artificial light.

 

[subject101]

wow, is it possible to order a custom jacket from Aero?

 

[l'oreille]

wow, is it possible to order a custom jacket from Aero?

Yessir! Aero is very accomodating to custom requests, often with no or minimal extra charge. When ordering my bootlegger, I requested to add an extra strip of leather at the inside bottom hem; to eliminate the breast pocket; to base the pattern on the 1930s halfbelt for a slimmer fit; and to slim down the sleeves. The only thing I was charged extra for was the leather strap at the bottom hem (50 GBP). It's exactly that willingness to work with their customers, in combination with the fantastic leather, that made me decide to go straight back to them for a second jacket.

Gancho: fantastic looking jacket! I'm not usually a fan of those fur collars, but it works very well on yours. That bikers-swing back looks very interesting, but I'm still leaning towards a Hercules-style plain back more. I think I'd like the bit of extra reach, but a clean, 1930s look is what I'm shooting for here - and even the bikers-swing seems to complicate things a bit. Ah, decisions, decisions...

 

[subject101]

Yessir! Aero is very accomodating to custom requests, often with no or minimal extra charge. When ordering my bootlegger, I requested to add an extra strip of leather at the inside bottom hem; to eliminate the breast pocket; to base the pattern on the 1930s halfbelt for a slimmer fit; and to slim down the sleeves. The only thing I was charged extra for was the leather strap at the bottom hem (50 GBP). It's exactly that willingness to work with their customers, in combination with the fantastic leather, that made me decide to go straight back to them for a second jacket.

but your two custom orders are based on their current line of jackets, right? it is not a completely new design for them.

 

[Dav]

but your two custom orders are based on their current line of jackets, right? it is not a completely new design for them.

Aero will do customisation to their existing lines I don't think they will design and build a new style from scratch. But I may be wrong, the best thing to do is ask.
EDIT having said that I suppose it depends how deep your pockets are.

 

[subject101]

Aero will do customisation to their existing lines I don't think they will design and build a new style from scratch. But I may be wrong, the best thing to do is ask.
EDIT having said that I suppose it depends how deep your pockets are.

Yep, I guess so

 

[l'oreille]

but your two custom orders are based on their current line of jackets, right? it is not a completely new design for them.

I do apologize for having missed the point of your question. In any case, the answer is still "yes", they will *occasionally* try out a new design suggested by a customer. The only example I know is the new "radjacke", which was designed and "test-driven" by a VLJ/FL member. I think the limiting factors there are 1) if you can procure a good template-jacket; something Aero can work from; 2) if Will likes the sound of the idea and thinks it's feasible; 3) your current financial situation, heh.

However, Aero's broad range of models, combined with their willingness to discuss just about any customization you can think of, makes me think that there are relatively few designs that you couldn't "puzzle together" from the existing templates.

 

[Gancho]

Good Morning Loungers,

just comming back to Bonneville´s question.
The leather is a darker brown. The more authentic pictures is the first shoot outside. This were taken on the first day. Now after a few weeks the leather becomes a little bit darker. After this winter I will post a review about the breaking in prcess.

Cheers

Olli