Correct fit- how small is too small?

[sammee_p]

Hi, this is my first post here so go easy on the newbie
I've done a search and been through the formal wear primer thread (phew...that was epic!) but I'm still trying to find how to define a *perfectly* fitting suit (or sports jacket) in a nutshell. I picked up on the high armholes debate, but it seems to me that the caricatures and drawings shown in catalogues and patterns depict gents in slim fitting, figure hugging garments, yet seeing photos of fellow FL'ers suggest that some slack is allowable, if not compulsory. I realise that caricatures are just that, but should one's suit or jacket hug the torso, allowing the wearing of nothing but a shirt or thin waistcoat underneath, or should there be an inch or two of slack when the jacket is buttoned?

As an example, I picked up a lovely (IMHO) Harris Tweed jacket at an op-shop. It is slim fitting, yet comfortable, but leaves very little to the imagination when buttoned (for the record, I'm 6'2" and on the lean side of average build). I haven't felt comfortable to wear it in public yet, fearing that it might look too small, although there is barely half an inch of shirt cuff showing at the wrist. This contrasts the handsome photos I've seen of gents wearing tweed jackets on FL. Can anyone offer me some simple tips?
Thanks in advance

 

[Atinkerer]

read this

www.atailoredsuit.com/proper-fit-mens-clothing-(a).html

 

[johnny]

www.atailoredsuit.com/proper-fit-mens-clothing-(a).html

Great link. Thanks.

 

[filfoster]

A fit for fit

www.atailoredsuit.com/proper-fit-mens-clothing-(a).html

I enjoyed the link but wonder what the cognoscenti here in the Lounge will opine as to its relevance vis a vis 'golden age' clothing norms. There is no mention of, for example, jacket skirt length although trouser waist height is addressed, for contemporary fashion. The trouser cuff width suggestions for various height men was interesting.

I agree with the idea of comfort. I am angular but prefer a loose fitting suit. Perfect, I suppose for a mid-Great Depression look.

 

[sammee_p]

Wow- what a fantastic site! Their suits look so good I might even be tempted to order one I don't quite understand the following statement though:

... and your biceps should just barely break the drape of sleeve from shoulder

Can someone clarify what this means please?
I was interested to see that they suggest French cuffs are more formal than barrel cuffs, in opposition to the views expressed in the Formal Wear Primer thread... [huh]

 

[filfoster]

Wow- what a fantastic site! Their suits look so good I might even be tempted to order one I don't quite understand the following statement though:

Can someone clarify what this means please?
I was interested to see that they suggest French cuffs are more formal than barrel cuffs, in opposition to the views expressed in the Formal Wear Primer thread... [huh]

I am not a doctor or anatomist, except as an amateur observer of the fairer sex, however, it seemed to me this suggested an allowable 'bulge' beneath the shoulder, at the mid-upper arm. Whether bicep or the muscle in the rear, the tricer whatsis, who knows? In any event, to me, this would mean the sleeve is too tight on the upper arm, unless this site caters to NFL players. The most attractive sleeve drape is a straight line from the shoulder to the cuff. I thought a fit which allowed the shoulder to bulge just below the shoulder seam indicated that the jacket was too small, although German military uniforms of the World Wars seem often to have been cut this tightly.

Now, perhaps the more learned posters can correct our impressions on these details.

Ditto the comment on the barrel cuff. In the workaday world of the regional bank, only the highest pay grades wear the french cuffs ( a bold few court bodily harm with a pocket hankie). The rest of us lower and lower- middle, professionally credentialed shlubs wear the usual barrel cuffs, but I rebel against the button down collar and never wear them. So there!

 

[reetpleat]

Good site. But am I the only one that thinks the first pic looks like the suit is slightly big? Maybe it is just lighter weight fabrics versus vintage, but seems ever so slightly too big for my tastes. Also, I think the pic of shirt and sleeve cuff is a little too long on both counts. maybe my personal taste, but as a short guy, I avoid anything that might make my suit or shirt look too big at all.

 

[filfoster]

A fit fit

Good site. But am I the only one that thinks the first pic looks like the suit is slightly big? Maybe it is just lighter weight fabrics versus vintage, but seems ever so slightly too big for my tastes. Also, I think the pic of shirt and sleeve cuff is a little too long on both counts. maybe my personal taste, but as a short guy, I avoid anything that might make my suit or shirt look too big at all.

I think it's ok because I prefer a loose fit. It isn't really 'drapey'. My rule of thumb is it's too big if it looks borrowed.