Copy a pattern or use an original?

[Lady Day]

This is my most favouritest dress I've made thus far. I'm almost tempted to buy or trade this pattern from Michelle!!! Hehe! She probably wants it back because it's so darn awesome, but copies will be made!

You use the original when you make things? You dont use a copy to make your dress?

LD

 

[Amy Jeanne]

Yup, I use the original. All patterns I've used are still in perfect shape because I'm careful. I work and have a husband -- I don't have time to trace everything I own. It would be nice, but it's not possible.

 

[maggiethespy]

Yup, I use the original. All patterns I've used are still in perfect shape because I'm careful. I work and have a husband -- I don't have time to trace everything I own. It would be nice, but it's not possible.

I use original patterns as well. I don't collect them-- I buy them to sew with, and I believe in using them carefully for the purpose they were intended. I don't buy "mint" patterns-- they usually have been used already.

I understand collectors often trace patterns to keep them in good condition, but for my purposes I just use them as I would any other pattern. I've always been good with patterns, though.

 

[Miss 1929]

I always trace them as I have funky proportions (nothing ever fits the way they say it should) and that way, I can slash and spread, or fold and tape, and not hurt the original pattern.

It must be wonderful to be a normal size...

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I use original patterns as well. I don't collect them-- I buy them to sew with, and I believe in using them carefully for the purpose they were intended. I don't buy "mint" patterns-- they usually have been used already.

I understand collectors often trace patterns to keep them in good condition, but for my purposes I just use them as I would any other pattern. I've always been good with patterns, though.

I feel the same. I'm very careful with all my vintage property. Most of mine usually have tiny tears, weird folds, little pins/rust on them, the occasional big tear... They only get used once at best -- twice if I like them enough. I do "collect" them -- but, like you, I collect them to SEW them! I only trace patterns when they are loaned to me. If I traced all the ones I owned -- well -- nothing would get sewn!

It's the same with my movie magazine collection -- people get horrified when I tell them I actually CAREFULLY handle, read, and ENJOY them instead of packing them away in plastic bags. They've survived 75 years of basements, attics, spills, damp, floods, bookworms, smoke, air pollution, other people handling them, etc. What's a little love from a gal in Philly gonna hurt 'em??

 

[MissAmelina]

I feel the same. I'm very careful with all my vintage property. Most of mine usually have tiny tears, weird folds, little pins/rust on them, the occasional big tear... They only get used once at best -- twice if I like them enough. I do "collect" them -- but, like you, I collect them to SEW them! I only trace patterns when they are loaned to me. If I traced all the ones I owned -- well -- nothing would get sewn!

It's the same with my movie magazine collection -- people get horrified when I tell them I actually CAREFULLY handle, read, and ENJOY them instead of packing them away in plastic bags. They've survived 75 years of basements, attics, spills, damp, floods, bookworms, smoke, air pollution, other people handling them, etc. What's a little love from a gal in Philly gonna hurt 'em??

Kudos to you....that's a very buddhist way of looking at it. Nothing lasts forever anyway, yes? (As I head upstairs to trace a pattern......maybe I won't now....can't...decide....)

 

[Lady Day]

Reading a vintage magazine is different than using/handling a pattern.

Often 70 year old brittle wax covered tissue doesent have the self life of a spine backed piece of media, especially if its being pilled, pinned, cut along and folded over with thick fabric.

It takes 20 min to an hour to iron and trace a pattern onto worry free tracing paper, then cut till your hearts content. I dont think it has anything to do with a 'busy' life. Especially if you sew a lot and if you want a copy of the pattern to begin with.

Of course they are your patterns and you can use them as you see fit, heck you can make a purse out of them if you want.

But you are going to run across that one special pattern, and you are going to try and make it, and a major piece is going to shatter on you, and not only do you not have a copy to work with, but youve ruined the pattern by making it difficult for anyone else to make it.

SO call me a snob, I trace ALL the vintage patterns IM going to make off.

LD

 

[kamikat]

I use originals, too. However, my favorites get ironed onto iron-on interfacing. That keeps them intact. Also, I'm not sure if newer sewers are aware of pattern weights, but it's much safer to use them then pinning the pattern to your fabric. As for alterations, if I'm using a 50's pattern, I usually don't have to do alterations. For 30's and 40's patterns, I prefer pin and pivot over slash and spread where possible. With pin and pivot, I can do alterations on the first run of a muslin.

 

[LizzieMaine]

I'm another who uses originals -- sometimes several times over -- but I'm very careful about it. Pattern weights are a very good idea (I use old lug nuts) and I never cut the actual pattern for alterations -- I've gotten to where I can do them by eye when cutting the fabric, since I'm usually altering larger (sigh).

My experience has always been that the pattern pieces themselves, if used carefully tend to be reasonably durable. It's the instruction sheets that I find most fragile -- cheap newsprint is much more acidic than tissue, and does not often withstand multiple foldings and unfoldings. So these, I strongly suggest copying whether or not you use the original pattern.

Another thing I've learned thru sad experience is to keep the cat away from the cutting table. Cats + patterns = mess.

 

[Lauren]

I also sometimes use original patterns. IF they are useable. I also collect patterns and magazines for use and reference. If I need to resize or if the pattern is is bad shape or if I know I'm going to make it more than once I'll transfer it to pattern paper or manila. I'm SUPER careful with the patterns, though, and usually try to cut it out and then fold it back up right away. I transfer all the markings right when cutting so that it can go back in the envelope. I rarely use instructions anymore, so I don't need them out. I have been meaning for a long time to transfer out patterns before using but I also don't really want to spend the time if I know the pattern is in good enough condition.

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I've been tracing mine by HAND!!! That's where the "busy" life comes into play. This process takes me ALL NIGHT. If there is a better way, please educate me. Perhaps you gals can elaborate on that ironing method. Afterall, I am a newbie.

 

[Miss 1929]

Using a yardstick for all the straight parts really speeds up the process. And I just bought one of thise flexible rubber rulers, which you can shape to a curve and it stays that way, for the curvy bits. You can get those in the quilting section.

Since most of my old patterns are perforated for the other markings, I mark through the perforations (trying not to get any on the pattern) with various color pens for small, medium and large perforations.

I know the old way to trace was to use carbon paper, and a tracing wheel - it looks like a tiny pizza cutter with teeth, so it makes a dotted line.

Hope that helps!

It should still take about an hour to trace a pattern, but it's a useful skill as you may want to copy other people's patterns that don't want you to use them. And I find that with all things sewing-related, if you slow down and take your time, you not only get a better product but you have more fun!

 

[evelyns-niece]

dumb question

Dear Sewing Experts,

I'm going to ask a dumb question since I don't sew. I've collected a few vintage patterns, and I want to try and use one but I'm afraid to use the original too much. However, tracing sounds long and laborious.

Has anyone ever tried photocopying the pattern pieces? Would that work? It seems my library has a wide format paper copier, so I'm wondering if that might be doable.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Lady Day]

I'm going to ask a dumb question since I don't sew. I've collected a few vintage patterns, and I want to try and use one but I'm afraid to use the original too much. However, tracing sounds long and laborious.

Tracing isnt log or laborious. I look at it as part of the process of working with vintage patterns. When I sew, I dont look for short cuts in that respect. By the time you end up finding a shot cut, you could have had the process done and over with.

Some blue print places can print out real size, and I know they dont charge too much but it might be as expensive as having bought a new pattern.

$20 for a roll of tracing paper, a sharpie and on a large flat table you can have a pattern traced off in an hour, tops.

LD

 

[kamikat]

I've been tracing mine by HAND!!! That's where the "busy" life comes into play. This process takes me ALL NIGHT. If there is a better way, please educate me. Perhaps you gals can elaborate on that ironing method. Afterall, I am a newbie.

Are you talking about my method of ironing the pattern onto fusible interfacing? It's not a method of tracing, but a method of preserving the original. It's the same process as using fusible interfacing for a collar or facing, just make sure you use a dry iron, no steam.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Unprinted Patterns

What is the best way to trace an unprinted pattern? I have no problem following the lines on printed ones but I find it harder to copy unprinted ones. Lady Day I was trying to copy that pattern I promised you a long time ago but I've found my lines aren't too straight. Any tips?

 

[Lady Day]

A straight edge and a bendable french curve really help.

LD

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

I'll admit to being a pattern snob. Well, pattern preserver is more like it. In the first place, I usually have to make alterations, so it saves time for me to just trace the pattern immediately and cut from the copy. I *have* used an original pattern twice: once, it was a '50s robe pattern that had already been cut with pinking shears (stupid old sewing instructions that recommended that! :rage, and it wasn't exactly a unique pattern. The second time, I was in a hurry to cut out a muslin, and so I used the original pieces, but I used weights and traced around the pieces. I then took the pieces away and cut on the traced lines, so as not to risk cutting the pattern. I find that Clover's Chaco Liner works GREAT for tracing pattern pieces. You just roll it on, and out comes a fine chalk line! Way better than marking pencils, tailor's chalk, or tracing paper, IMHO. It also comes in chalk pen form, but it's more expensive that way.

Otherwise, I try to trace my vintage patterns. The tissue is fragile: re-folding, pinholes, handling, and unfortunate accidents take their toll. Since they're a very limited resource, I want to preserve them for the future. Also, if a pattern does get wrecked, I have my new copy that will pass on the function of the original. And yeah, it does take some time. I don't want to discourage anyone from using their old patterns! But I think it's time well spent. I use my huge roll of white butcher paper. I think there's lots of info on tracing patterns in one of these threads, if not this one.

Tip: instead of tracing around the whole thing, I often trace in dashed lines about 1-2" apart, especially on long straight areas. Then I straighten things out with a ruler.

My experience has always been that the pattern pieces themselves, if used carefully tend to be reasonably durable. It's the instruction sheets that I find most fragile -- cheap newsprint is much more acidic than tissue, and does not often withstand multiple foldings and unfoldings. So these, I strongly suggest copying whether or not you use the original pattern.

And the instructions are easy to copy or scan! No excuses. You're right - instructions are *very* fragile. I know I've torn a couple, and since then try to copy them right off so I can refer to the copy and not keep re-opening the original.

 

[mentha]

I've never, ever cut an original patternsheet, I always trace it. That way I can use it again an again, create different sizes etc. I'm about to venture into my first vintage pattern work, as I've borrowed a few '50s magazines with patternsheets from my bf's mother.
He's taken the sheets I definitely want to use to his work, where he'll get the pirnt department to try and copy them for me. That way, I can bring the originals back to his mother and I have strong copies that I can use over and over again Yay! If these go well, I'll have them do the others as well (you never know, I might just decde to use them anyway).

 

[kamikat]

It occurred to me that the difference in opinions on trace/vs using originals might come from the age or scarcity of the pattern itself. My collection is mostly 50s and 60s patterns. None of my 50's patterns cost me more than $15 and most of my 60s patterns were less than $10. Since buying most of my patterns, I have seen several copies on eBay or retail shops. However, I recently purchased a couple 30's pattern for more than I've ever paid for a pattern. I plan on purchasing one in the near future that is $50. Those older patterns I will certainly trace off and use the copy, not the original.