Considering online custom suit... any last suggestions?

[Feraud]

MEMBERS. STAY CLEAR (AND AS FAR AWAY AS YOU CAN) FROM BARON BOUTIQUE!!!!!!!

TRUST ME!!:

Can you elaborate?
I need to read more than "trust me" as proof that you have dealt with them and found their services less than satisfactory.

 

[fashionsense]

Want proof. Place an order with them.

 

[Feraud]

Want proof. Place an order with them.

This is not a legitimate reply. How do I know you are not a competitor of theirs looking to undercut their business?

Have you ordered anything from them? What was it. How did you like it or not and why.

Please elaborate if you have any experience with this company. Your comments may save the members a lot of grief.

 

[Jovan]

There was someone else on Style Forum who said the same thing and never elaborated why. I wonder if it's the same person here. Apart from some of MY measurements being off (and hence, the product being slightly off), I haven't really been disappointed. With any online tailor you have to be really specific as to what cut, style details, etc. you want. Another person who has used them was successful. He got soft canvassing and narrow lapels just the way he wanted, and was overall impressed. That encouraged me to get those details in my next suit. (It will be copied from pictures of other suits, too, which helps.) There are some other similar companies members use on here which some people have had success, and others not so much.

 

[tonyvan]

I'll keep out of any supplier-bashing...
Back to the suit spec, if you don't mind, here's a few observations...

First, a double-vent is, strictly-speaking, non-U for a single-breated suit. If you look at the structure of a 'proper' SB jacket, there's a centre seam at the back, which leads to a single vent. If you look at a DB suit, there's two seams, leading to a double vent/flap.
That said, I have a lot of SB/double vents, so these days I don't think it's an issue - go with what you want - I'm just being pedantic...

As for cuffs on the pants - I too like broad cuffs, but on narrow 8" bottom (I'm guessing you mean 16" really!) pants, they can dominate a little. As a rule of thumb, I generally only have cuffs if the pants have pleats...

Lining - the white/grey stripe is traditionally reserved for sleeves, while the body of the suit will have a different lining as per your preference. Again, if your preference IS for white/grey stripe, then fine - it's your suit!

Waistcoat/vest - really should be lapelled if you go for one. A 3 or 4-pocket vest can be a nice touch.

Watch pocket - I always think of them as change pockets, as one's watch should be either in the vest, or failing that, in the breast pocket.

Pockets - I always go for two breast pockets, one ticket pocket, and a small pen-pocket underneath the left-hand breast pocket.
A change pocket is also useful inside the right hand outer jacket pocket, and a separate ticket pocket on the outside is entirely up to you. Just make sure the pockets are slanted...
On the pants, side slit pockets, and one right-side buttoned hip pocket is the norm.

Buttons....nothing too garish of course - I have a liking for cloth-covered buttons on the jacket - particularly on the sleeve (where there should be no more than 4 per arm) - and have you thought of a turn-back cuff? A little fancy, but can be a nice touch.

 

[fashionsense]

PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH BARON BOUTIGUE

Dear Feraud (and members),

I assure you that I am not a competitor. I did try Baron Boutigue personally, and had a blazer tailored. The blazer appeared to have the worst canvassing liner, if you would consider it canvassing. There appeared to be some sort of very sticky material of some sort. Based on my experience with custom tailoring, I am certain that this was a very poor form of canvassing. The tailors attempt at functional button holes, were simply forming the shape of a button hole by what appearred to be, utilizing a sewing machine and punching a hole in the formed button hole. Additionally, I requested hand stitching on the lapel, which only appeared to look feasible on one side of the lapel, which coincidentally, the lapel was horribly shaped and the peaks of the lapel were not properly shaped. I can somewhat understand your somehow believing that I am a competitor, but again, I assure sir, I am not. Based on my experience with Baron Boutigue, I would again caution your using this establishment, (if you do intend to utilze), and do research on this establishment and actual customer experience, to include personal references from Baron Boutigue.

 

[Feraud]

Sorry to read you had such a bad experience with BB. Thanks for the clarification. It goes a long way in helping members make informed decisions.

 

[CharlestonBows]

First, a double-vent is, strictly-speaking, non-U for a single-breated suit. If you look at the structure of a 'proper' SB jacket, there's a centre seam at the back, which leads to a single vent. If you look at a DB suit, there's two seams, leading to a double vent/flap.

That's not necessarily all that accurate. On a strictly technical point, all coats, in general, are built on three seams -- one down the center, two down the sides, extending from the scye. So to say that the structure of a coat is determinative of the vents is a little misleading. The conclusion, to be frank, seams a bit convoluted. No offense is at all meant, so please don't take any.

Suits, and more to the point, suit coats, are creations evolved uniquely from a strictly military heritage. The single vented coat was designed for the purposes of riding horseback, with the slit in the center of the coat tails allowing the jacket to drape and not be crushed when one would ride.

The center vent is a typically American detail nowadays, and has been for the better part of the century. This is for two reasons, generally. One being that the center vent was more architecturally balanced with the natural shoulders of the Ivy League sacks. Second, it was the cheapest to make for ready-to-wear manufacturers. (Conversely, if you look at most bespoke makers, especially on the Row, you will find side vents. This detail, among others, would distinguish a properly handmade suit, as double vents were the most expensive to craft).

The well-dressed man would not, if faced with the option, go with a center vent, because the center vent coat made him look boxy, cutting him in half, and has this terrible, strange thing happen across the back when you put your hands in your trouser pockets. If you notice, for example, the Duke of Windsor (focusing on his style, not his Britishness) never would he be found in a center vented coat -- it would always be non or double vented.

The double vent, in addition to being functional from both a practical and stylistic standpoint, gives a man a more slimming height by extending the trouser line up the jacket seams -- and we all want to look a little taller and thinner! However, gentlemen of broad hip and posterior should beware.

As for pant cuffs, I would, very generally, agree as to the cuffs vis-a-vis pleating. However, cuff size needs to be proportional to lapel size and the fullness of the trouser. Slim lapels require slim trousers, and slim trousers look a bit bottom heavy with cuffs.

As to the waistcoat lapels, this is purely a personal stylistic point. Lapels on the vest are more formal, I personally avoid them except on the most dressy of suits, or for formal ensembles.

However, these are just my own opinions. As far as Baron Boutique goes, I haven't the foggiest. But do at least give your friendly neighborhood haberdasher/clothier/tailor a look .

 

[CharlestonBows]

The blazer appeared to have the worst canvassing liner, if you would consider it canvassing. There appeared to be some sort of very sticky material of some sort.

This sounds like he just used some heat activated interlining. I agree, not really all that up to par for 'hand made' or 'bespoke'.

However, in the interest of full disclosure, I've had no experience with BB, and am a bit bias. [huh]

 

[Jovan]

Dear Feraud (and members),

I assure you that I am not a competitor. I did try Baron Boutigue personally, and had a blazer tailored. The blazer appeared to have the worst canvassing liner, if you would consider it canvassing. There appeared to be some sort of very sticky material of some sort. Based on my experience with custom tailoring, I am certain that this was a very poor form of canvassing. The tailors attempt at functional button holes, were simply forming the shape of a button hole by what appearred to be, utilizing a sewing machine and punching a hole in the formed button hole. Additionally, I requested hand stitching on the lapel, which only appeared to look feasible on one side of the lapel, which coincidentally, the lapel was horribly shaped and the peaks of the lapel were not properly shaped. I can somewhat understand your somehow believing that I am a competitor, but again, I assure sir, I am not. Based on my experience with Baron Boutigue, I would again caution your using this establishment, (if you do intend to utilze), and do research on this establishment and actual customer experience, to include personal references from Baron Boutigue.

Interesting. I did not at all have that experience with my suit. The only tailoring detail that was off was one functional cuff didn't have the buttons sewn on properly, i.e. not thread wrapped at the shanks. (?) I think you know what I mean. I've let them know about this. I requested hand canvassing. You, most likely, did not. It would help them to offer that as extra on their website, but I'm glad I asked, and in any case it came out fine. The canvassing felt good and substantial, which helped the shape of the coat since it was a lightweight (about 8 oz) tropical worsted. Since I'm getting a heavier fabric (which was considered lightweight in the period that I'm emulating with this suit), I'm asking for soft canvassing. A member from Style Forum was pleased with how his soft-tailored suit from them came out.

How would I go about getting references? Since I'm getting something somewhat special in its details, I'd appreciate the help. Thanks for sharing your experience.

CB: I believe I've let you know that there is no such establishment here. The only in the phonebook that sounds like it is "Bib and Tucker Tailors," and I always get a voicemail, and none of my calls are ever returned. :-/

 

[CharlestonBows]

CB: I believe I've let you know that there is no such establishment here. The only in the phonebook that sounds like it is "Bib and Tucker Tailors," and I always get a voicemail, and none of my calls are ever returned. :-/

Oh I know -- just putting the plug in for the team, lol.