Considering online custom suit... any last suggestions?

[Jovan]

I've pretty much narrowed down (no pun intended) the style and fabric I want.

Coat:
-3 button single breasted
-2.75" notched lapels rolled to second button
-straight lapel hole
-floor level flap pockets (non-hacking)
-double back vent
-white with grey stripe lining (viscose)

Trouser:
-no pleats
-side button adjusters
-two back pockets
-16" around at bottom
-2.25" cuff
-half-lined

The fabric will be pure new wool in 10 oz, light grey. I'm getting the coat with soft construction and minimal shoulder padding, and making sure the armholes are fitted. I've been talking to the representative about this for some time. Is it best to get a triangular or circular shaped armhole?

Thanks.

 

[J. M. Stovall]

I think it was agreed here (FL) that an online suit isn't really a bespoke suit by the strictest definition.

 

[Jovan]

... title changed, then. You picky bastages.

 

[J. M. Stovall]

Sorry, but you always pick on me for Star Trek stuff so I couldn't resist.

 

[luvthatlulu]

Just curious...

...how did you come to decide on 2.25" cuffs?

Admittedly, to cuff or not to cuff and how much to cuff is ultimately at the discretion of the wearer; but to me that seems a little much and (more importantly) out of scale for an 8" wide leg at the bottom and a plain front pant--unless, of course, you're a very tall individual. Like NBA tall. My thoughts.

--Not the Lulu

 

[Rooster]

I've been talking to the representative about this for some time.

I'd go with what ever representative you have been corresponding with.

 

[Mark from Plano]

What's the purpose of the suit? Business or event?

Given your construction (NL, 3/2 roll) I'd suggest the following:
1. Why not have a vest made up with it? Adds versatility and you don't have to wear it all the time. I'm partial to collared vests, it would need to be a NL vest with a NL suit. With a 3/2 NL I'd probably stick with a SB 5 or 6 button vest.
2. I'm having a hidden watch pocket put into the waistband of all my custom trousers now. In one pair the top of the band is split just to the right of the zipper. In another pair the pocket sits immediately below the waistband in the same spot. You can't see either unless you know they're there. Some folks like the flap over the watch pocket, but I like it hidden.
3. You might consider having the rubber tabs put into the waistband of the trousers to keep your shirt tucked in.
4. Suspender buttons? I know that you've got side adjusters which I assume means no belt loops. That's good. Personally I'd go ahead and have suspender buttons put in just in case you ever want to wear braces. Can't hurt and it doesn't cost much.
5. Heel guards on the inside of the cuffs of the trousers.
6. Working cuff buttons on the jacket?


That's all I can think of right now.

 

[luvthatlulu]

Mark from Plano has some good suggestions, but I'd leave number 6 to a local tailor to complete. Once the buttonholes are in, it makes it harder to fine tune the sleeve length if that's wrong when it arrives. You might even want to leave the sleeve ends unfinished for that very reason. (Just make sure they send the cuff buttons!)

--Not the Lulu

 

[Jovan]

lulu: I'm 6' tall, and just happen to like that size ever since I saw it on others. I may just get 2", and that sort of thing you can always alter easily later on anyways. Thanks though, I'll take that into consideration.

Rooster: The representative is the one I've been corresponding with, from the same people I'm getting this from. Unless I misunderstood what you're saying.

Mark: Neither. One I'd get because I want to wear a suit.
1. Been considering that. It's $80 extra with the fabric I'm set on, but couldn't hurt. I don't know about a lapelled waistcoat, but I have been considering one of those six button, five to use styles with the extra button and buttonhole along the points. Unless that's too matchy-matchy with the similar 3-roll-2 style.
2. I wouldn't have a use for that, honestly. I use the mobile phone to check time. A hidden pocket comes standard inside the waistband though.
3. Also comes standard.
4. That would come at no charge, and may not actually be a bad idea. Thanks!
5. Also standard.
6. Standard as well. I'm considering asking them to make the last two false ones, just in case it needs to be altered if my physique changes or I hand it over to a son/grandson later on.

Thanks, everyone.

I hope Matt Deckard, the resident armhole expert, can answer my question regarding scye shape...

EDIT: lulu, that's not a bad idea too. Thank you.

 

[GBR]

What thought have you given to the inside coat pockets? It is easy to have two breast pockets and a ticket pocket but you can choose what you need and where in the jacket.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

I hope Matt Deckard, the resident armhole expert, can answer my question regarding scye shape...

Just a note..its the QM weekend....you might not get answers from some of the folks you want to..until after this weekend.

 

[Feraud]

I've been talking to the representative about this for some time. Is it best to get a triangular or circular shaped armhole?

Thanks.

Get one that matches your arm shape.

 

[Jovan]

What thought have you given to the inside coat pockets? It is easy to have two breast pockets and a ticket pocket but you can choose what you need and where in the jacket.

The ones on the jacket I got before were sufficient, so no thought has gone into this. A pocket specifically for keys with a loophole could be useful though.

 

[Rooster]

Rooster: The representative is the one I've been corresponding with, from the same people I'm getting this from. Unless I misunderstood what you're saying.

Opps, sorry. I completely missed the intent of the question.:eusa_doh: The leg openings on the pants seem kind of narrow, so I assume you're going with a pegged look? I sure hope your tailor can get the armholes correct, I can't stand low armholes now that I ran into this crowd.
Now that I've ordered a couple suits on line I can say that next time around I'll go with heavy enough fabric that it will drape well. Of course heavy fabric may be an issue for you in Florida. I'm wondering if a tall slim young man such as yourself wouldn't want to pad the shoulders out a bit, I used to be tall and thin like you and ended up looking like a bean pole, the padded shoulders may help eliminate that look. HA, sure wish I still had the bean pole problem today!
Jacket pockets... I find two inner breast pockets are fine for me, one for a wallet and the other for glasses.

 

[Jovan]

The shoulder thing is a comfort issue. I've tried on too many jackets where I feel like I'm wearing armour rather than something that moves with me -- hence the request for soft canvas as well. I'm thin and tall, yes, but I think my shoulders are fairly broad and don't slope much. You tell me... you've seen my pictures! The suit is intended to be late '50s, early '60s inspired. I'm not necessarily going for a pegged look, just a slight taper. Most trouser legs are 18" around at the bottom nowadays.

 

[Feraud]

Who is making the suit?

 

[Jovan]

Baron Boutique. This is the second suit I'll have gotten from them.

 

[Feraud]

Baron Boutique. This is the second suit I'll have gotten from them.

Obviously you are satisfied with their work to be ordering another one. Did you post any pics of the first one at the Lounge? I do not recall seeing it.

 

[Jovan]

No, I didn't. Unfortunately the pictures I did take are lost, and this was before I came here so the suit doesn't have properly fitting armholes or a substantial fabric.

 

[fashionsense]

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