Confounded by sizing

[bigmanbigtruck]

I don't have unusually broad shoulders but anything narrower than my shoulder width is constricting. (This is a principle in tailoring, too, that something can be bigger than the shoulder but not smaller.)

Gotcha, I thought it might have been a problem area for you. Kinda like me and my relationship with sleeve length.
Anyway broad shoulders or not, point still stands... if he's unwilling to provide measurements, provide him with what usually works for you instead. With a point of reference, they're experienced enough to know where you fit with their stuff.

 

[greenc]

“Vanson tells me it's all about the ease through the chest, which they peg at 5-inches. When I asked how that equates to a size 38 they couldn't tell me what the actual chest measurement was on a C2.”

38+5=43

Do you mean that they are not meeting their own specification?

I really don't know how Vanson's pattern-making work or how their ease through the chest is calculated. I did the same thing, I added 38 and 5 but was told that it was more complicated than that - I pressed but the person I was speaking to couldn't offer me an answer.

I think the C2 is terrific and I'm interested in an older version, a la mid-1980s or so.

 

[greenc]

Gotcha, I thought it might have been a problem area for you. Kinda like me and my relationship with sleeve length.
Anyway broad shoulders or not, point still stands... if he's unwilling to provide measurements, provide him with what usually works for you instead. With a point of reference, they're experienced enough to know where you fit with their stuff.

There's a man in Austin, Texas named Lee Miller who is widely considered the best living cowboy boot maker in the world. Key to his success is his unbelievable understanding of how to create a last - he takes copious measurements, watches someone walk, looks at their heels and arches and then spends weeks shaping the last that the boot will be made on.

I've heard Thedi has similar prowess in that he simply knows the human body and how to create jackets that drape correctly and have the right leeway for movement.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

There's a man in Austin, Texas named Lee Miller who is widely considered the best living cowboy boot maker in the world. Key to his success is his unbelievable understanding of how to create a last - he takes copious measurements, watches someone walk, looks at their heels and arches and then spends weeks shaping the last that the boot will be made on.

I've heard Thedi has similar prowess in that he simply knows the human body and how to create jackets that drape correctly and have the right leeway for movement.

Can't speak for Theodoros as I've never dealt with him (tho I understand from others on this forum, that they've been able to visit him in person and had a great experience), but that's not LW or Stuart's approach.

He'd rather have you walk away than watch how you walk or ask for a copious set of measurements. It's very basic, height/weight/suit size. I also volunteered some measurements on a couple of jackets that fit me well. From there, he said the sleeves would need to be lengthened. That's about it.

They do allow for some minor customization on their patterns such as back length or bringing in the hem, but the rest stays untouched afaik.

I don't blame them, they've been doing it their way for years and it's been working. So why fix what ain't broke?

 

[greenc]

Can't speak for Theodoros as I've never dealt with him (tho I understand from others on this forum, that they've been able to visit him in person and had a great experience), but that's not LW or Stuart's approach.

He'd rather have you walk away than watch how you walk or ask for a copious set of measurements. It's very basic, height/weight/suit size. I also volunteered some measurements on a couple of jackets that fit me well. From there, he said the sleeves would need to be lengthened. That's about it.

They do allow for some minor customization on their patterns such as back length or bringing in the hem, but the rest stays untouched afaik.

I don't blame them, they've been doing it their way for years and it's been working. So why fix what ain't broke?

I've emailed him three times about various things and his responses are always in ALL CAPS and the whole cadence of his writing style is very much take it or leave it. I was hoping to visit his shop at some point but I get the feeling that's not allowed.

He makes the Strada CR with olive green stripes in 3mm horsehide that I think is outta sight!

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

I've emailed him three times about various things and his responses are always in ALL CAPS and the whole cadence of his writing style is very much take it or leave it.

Yes, he's very concise and to the point over email, but never missed or ignored a question I asked - which I appreciate. Think he saves his vocabulary for the website lol
Idk about the all caps thing - sometimes I've gotten messages from him with large font, but never all caps.

I was hoping to visit his shop at some point but I get the feeling that's not allowed.

I live 20 mins away and happened to drive past - it's definitely not a customer friendly spot. If I didn't know any better, it looks like a rundown storefront. Seems deliberate to maintain a low-key presence. My guess is he'd be willing to entertain a visit if you've ordered a lot of stuff from him and established a good relationship.