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To answer OP's question, I believe the new fit 42 should work. I am about your weight and height and this is how the new fit 42 fits on me
New fit 42 measures small but fits big because the sleeves are wider angled. I think what Geekrobot said about the fit difference is spot on. I don't have the old fit but I do have an older TM jacket that may be very similar to some of the slimfit old J-24 models in size 44, even at one size larger, it does feel smaller than the new fit J-24 in size 42, because the sleeves:
new fit sleeve vs what I think the old fit sleeves are:
To make things even more confusing, I've been looking at this jacket all the way back to the New Zealand days, and it seems that the fit has been tweaked at least 3 to 4 times already, and there is no tag inside showing the model number so just by photo its hard to know which production year/fit they are.
The good news is that the most current fit (2021 onward) are popping up a lot on the used market because people are confused about the fit changes, so there is a good chance of getting one at a discount. I took a gamble on one just recently as posted.
Tape to jacket for the new fit size 42:
Shoulder can expand to about 19.5" but is about 18.5" with the action pleats pushed in
chest is 22" with the pleats pushed in and 23" expanded
sleeve length is longer than RMC's usual
there is a front drop so the back length isn't as short as it seems
Leather is the stiff kind, and needs break in.
It's a very good jacket. Not flawless construction, but really good overall package. The current pattern won't give you the super slim look but is much better for mobility imo.
New fit 42 measures small but fits big because the sleeves are wider angled. I think what Geekrobot said about the fit difference is spot on. I don't have the old fit but I do have an older TM jacket that may be very similar to some of the slimfit old J-24 models in size 44, even at one size larger, it does feel smaller than the new fit J-24 in size 42, because the sleeves:
new fit sleeve vs what I think the old fit sleeves are:
To make things even more confusing, I've been looking at this jacket all the way back to the New Zealand days, and it seems that the fit has been tweaked at least 3 to 4 times already, and there is no tag inside showing the model number so just by photo its hard to know which production year/fit they are.
The good news is that the most current fit (2021 onward) are popping up a lot on the used market because people are confused about the fit changes, so there is a good chance of getting one at a discount. I took a gamble on one just recently as posted.
Tape to jacket for the new fit size 42:
Shoulder can expand to about 19.5" but is about 18.5" with the action pleats pushed in
chest is 22" with the pleats pushed in and 23" expanded
sleeve length is longer than RMC's usual
there is a front drop so the back length isn't as short as it seems
Leather is the stiff kind, and needs break in.
It's a very good jacket. Not flawless construction, but really good overall package. The current pattern won't give you the super slim look but is much better for mobility imo.