Complete rip off of Lewis Leathers cyclone in Clutch cafe, London.

[Lit Up]

Couldn't believe what I found in Clutch cafe. Facsimile of Lewis Leathers cyclone jacket by "Addict" I believe. Cost £2,000 instead of the usual £800 or so for a genuine made to measure Lewis. Even has the arm bands which are a custom option at Lewis. The guy working at Clutch said he didn't know what a Cyclone jacket was. I didn't want to burst his bubble and tell him he's selling a complete rip off of someone else's intellectual rights (Cyclone is from the 70s, hence probably not in the public domain). Derek probably isn't best pleased. I think this is one of the reasons why he stopped allowing custom orders to omit the lewis leathers patch.

 

[Bigbenbs]

Hi,

So most Japanese brands build their jackets on classic American models. Addicts alternatively works from classic British models. That's their particular niche, which obviously means that they draw on vintage models of Lewis Leathers and Belstaff. The owner at Clutch Cafe explained it to me himself. So nothing fishy going on here, or at least nothing fishier than what other top tier Japanese repro companies are doing. And interestingly Addicts tries to hit a more moderate price point, around 1400 as opposed to 2000 for Real McCoy's etc.

They also use more lamb which was more common on classic British styles than American, which were cow and horse.

 

[ShadowBoxer]

Interesting. I'm sure this happens a lot and everyone "borrows" from each other.
If you feel it is truly a direct, unapologetic rip-off of the original design (I don't know much about Lewis Leathers besides how to spell it), and it bothers you, if you don't want to intervene in person, you might consider doing so via email.

If you feel the owner of Clutch (some kind of a cafe/ vintage store?) would respect Lewis Leathers intellectual property and designs, the owners of this store might not want to sell an overpriced copy when he could have a lower priced original. The owner(s) may welcome the information. If they are truly dedicated to vintage style and clothing I might find it hard to believe they don't know Lewis Leathers or recognize a common design (if it is). You recognized it.

However a relatively anonymous email simply stating For Your Information, supportive rather than accusatory in tone, with a link to Lewis' website, the jacket itself and a suggestion that the original is available and cheaper might go a long way. Would it not be cooler and hipper to sell the original leather jacket for less money? If you are a regular customer, just sign it "a regular customer who digs the vintage vibe" or something like that. Then keep going in as normal. It would be interesting to see if there are any sudden changes to inventory or not, in the coming weeks and months.

It's not your problem and does fall under "mind your own business" however if it is a mistake made from innocent ignorance I know I would want to know about it and would welcome a correction and a link to the authentic. That's me. I'm interested in truth and only ashamed of mistakes that I don't correct. Others get there delicate egos involved and can't tolerate feedback. Also I can only suggest from my experience. I'm not English/British so I don't know what social etiquette suggests there. That's something you might have to figure out or not, if you care about their feelings.

It would be interesting if you posted a picture of an authentic Lewis Cyclone, just as a visual comparison here.

Intriguing dilemma.
Cheers.

 

[Mich486]

Addict Clothes make exact replicas of LL jackets (not just the Cyclone). Nothing new. Clutch cafe sells Japanese brands amongst which Addict Clothes.

While I too think it’s crazy to pay more than twice for a replica of something which is still sold (it’s admittedly a bit different than what real McCoy’s for instance is doing with Buco) the construction and leather used by Addict Clothes seems better than what LL use( I own a LL Cyclone).


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[ShadowBoxer]

I see.
So maybe some stores are not dealers, for whatever reason, and so they can't/don't sell the original brands.
They instead sell replicas and copies of those brands. Replicas and copies made by companies whose purpose is to make replicas and copies for various markets.

Economics.
All gaps must be filled!


A much simpler answer so probably better and true.
Cheers.

 

[Mich486]

I don’t think Clutch Cafe has any interest in selling original Lewis Leathers jackets. The purpose of such shop is to sell top rated Japanese repro/vintage inspired brands.

Bear in mind we are not talking about cheap knock-off copies but as I said they are possibly better made than the originals. In most cases these japanese brands reproduce vintage stuff which isn’t sold anymore. In the case of Addict Clothes things are a bit different as LL is still operating.


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[red devil]

Addict clothes used to be a vintage dealer before starting their own production, and as stated they take their inspiration from British styles. I haven't see a full copy of the lightning jacket which is arguably the most iconic LL jacket.
They certainly use better hides and construction, and they are cheaper than RMC in Japan.

Edit: typo

 

[handymike]

I like this one:

 

[miglan30]

Well it has that same barrel or boxy lower torso I associate with LL jackets. One reason I don't care for them, they don't seem very fitted or maybe I've not seen enough of them.

 

[Bigbenbs]

Well it has that same barrel or boxy lower torso I associate with LL jackets. One reason I don't care for them, they don't seem very fitted or maybe I've not seen enough of them.

I found LL terrifically fitted, but maybe that's just in relation to my body. See my post in London leather bonanza for pics.

 

[Blackadder]

RRL copied all of the classic Levi's, Lee and Wrangler denim jackets. We have all seen other British made leather jackets that are very similar to LL since the 70s. We have seen lots of USA made one star style jackets under different brands from the 50s.
Those Japanese repro brands make clothing mainly for their own market as can be shown by their cutting. And at that price I doubt LL's business will be seriously affected. I would consider Zara and H&M more of a rip off. You should have seen their copies.

 

[Monitor]

Stitch for a stitch knock-offs of Lewis Leathers gear have been appearing since the 70's. Nothing surprising.

 

[nick123]

I went to this vintage store in town and they had SO MANY Lewis knockoffs hanging on the ceiling it wasn't even funny. I mean, I'd have to check the labels to make sure they weren't LLs. My guess is front-buckled Lewis styled jackets "were a thing" in the 70s-80s.

The Brits are coming!

 

[Edward]

Addict are indeed one of several Japanese brands that make reproductions of Lewis Leathers. There's nothing illegal or violating of LL's IP rights here. As far as the law is concerned, clothes are merely utilitarian, and there is no copyright in a jacket design. All that can be protected is the trade mark - Lewis Leathers (in TM laws, obvs), and the copyright in the patterns. Addict are perfectly within their rights legally to buy one of each Lewis model, deconstruct it, make their own patterns, and then sell exact copies. Whether folks find this ethically acceptable or not, it is perfectly legal.

As to leathers used, Lewis, like pretty much all of the British makers, used 'sheepskin' back in the day; nowadays they also offer a heavier cow and horsehide (as well as armour pockets on some models). A truly authentic 19050s British bike jacket will feel surprisingly flimsy and- if you equate quality with weight - cheap.

Addict are not the only brand doing this sort of thing available in London: Leather Monkey and Hi Star Classics both started (and still do to some extent) dealing in vintage British jackets, and now also commission their own copies of Lewises.

This probably helps a lot of folks who have complained about Lewis' insistence on a logo patch to at least understand LL's motivation.

Also worth noting that back in the day there were dozens of British brands all copying each other's designs; the Lewis Corsair and Dominator which first appeared in 1962, for example, are identical to models being made by Rivett's of Leytonstone under the Highwayman brand as far back as 1959. Rivetts copied the LL Lightning, introduced by LL in 1958.

It's the nature of the industry, for better or worse.

 

[Superfluous]

The definition of a repro jacket manufacturer is one who reproduces / replicates jackets from the 30s – 80s. Why is anyone surprised that a modern repro jacket manufacturer would reproduce / replicate a legendary biker jacket from the 70s? All current repro jacket manufacturers are doing this. Some use vintage models as mere inspiration, and do not endeavor to exactly replicate the original. Others strive for precise replication. Ironically, when a current repro manufacturer inaccurately reproduces certain details, enthusiasts are quick to point out -- and sometimes criticize -- the deviations. On the other hand, certain repro manufacturers are regularly applauded for the accuracy of their reproductions. Some repro manufacturers go so far as to license the right to replicate the original labels and thereby make their reproduction even closer to the original (some reproduce labels without a license).

Based on the foregoing, it should be no surprise that Addict is faithfully reproducing an iconic Lewis Leathers' jacket from the 70s. Of note, Addict’s reproduction appears to be better quality than the original. That is not uncommon these days, with current repro manufacturers often employing superior methods and leathers as compared to the originals.

I gather that the OP takes exception with Addict’s reproduction of LL’s Cyclone because LL is still in business, still manufactures a model with the same name (Cyclone), and operates a nearby retail store. However, Addict’s current repro is noticeably different from LL’s current model Cyclone. For example, LL’s current model Cyclone does not have striping on the sleeves. Moreover, Addict's repro does not have the sleeve zipper adjacent to the cuff zippers. There are also subtle differences in the spacing and angles of certain elements. The overlap between the models is undeniable and Addict clearly sought to replicate a LL's Cyclone. However, it appears that Addict did not replicate LL’s current model Cyclone. Rather, I am guessing that LL produced a Cyclone during the 70s with sleeve striping and no additional sleeve zipper, LL no longer offers that exact Cyclone, and Addict is reproducing the 70s model Cyclone as opposed to LL’s current model Cyclone.

There are certainly gray areas in the world of jacket reproductions, and the fact that LL still makes the “Cyclone” arguably alters the equities. That said, I personally am not offended by Addict’s current reproduction of a former LL’s jacket given the differences between Addict’s reproduction and LL’s current model Cyclone. I think I would feel differently if LL still offered this precise model, in the same configuration as existed in the 70s, and Addict copied the current model Cyclone with the same precision. On the other hand, Addict's reproduction of LL's 70s Cyclone arguably impairs LL's ability to commemorate / reproduce the jacket itself. That's unfortunate. Like I said, its kinda gray.

 

[Mich486]

For the sake of completeness, Addict Clothes make also a standard Cyclone without stripes on the sleeves. That model is specific to Clutch Cafe I believe.


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[Lit Up]

While I too think it’s crazy to pay more than twice for a replica of something which is still sold (it’s admittedly a bit different than what real McCoy’s for instance is doing with Buco) the construction and leather used by Addict Clothes seems better than what LL use( I own a LL Cyclone).

Not at all. I didn't feel that way. Horrible feeling leather and dull matte finish on the hardware. Also I'd rather get a jacket personally tailored to me than wear some baggy generic cut.

For example, LL’s current model Cyclone does not have striping on the sleeves.

not accurate. it's a facsimile and yes LL does make bands on the sleeves of the cyclone as a custom option.

 

[ton312]

Personally, I think the LL jackets look better. Maybe I'm missing something but to me the Addict jackets look like knock offs (not poorly done mind you but knock offs none the less). I prefer the older LL stuff tbh but I wouldn't even consider an Addicts jacket over a new LL. I'll take the Dominator from the folks that invented it. In my experience a copy often misses a nuance that can't be replicated from the original, new or vintage, whether deliberate or not. In this instance I just can't see the point in the Japanese repro.

 

[Monitor]

Based on the foregoing, it should be no surprise that Addict is faithfully reproducing an iconic Lewis Leathers' jacket from the 70s. Of note, Addict’s reproduction appears to be better quality than the original.

Super, wh... What are you basing this assumption on? If OP's pic is to be taken as any indication, no freaking way. The jacket looks and fits like crap. It's all sorts of off! I didn't even recognize it as an LL knock off when I first saw the pic.

Cyclone is a very impressive, heavy, slim fitting motorcycle jacket. That thing Lit Up posted is a bloated nightmare.

For example, LL’s current model Cyclone does not have striping on the sleeves. Moreover, Addict's repro does not have the sleeve zipper adjacent to the cuff zippers.

Cyclone by default NEVER had stripes on the sleeves & you could order it with or without a sleeve pocket. Whatever Addict is basing their model on is completely irrelevant as it was most likely a custom made jacket. That's how they're trying to get away with it! Or they came up with the stripes themselves but whatever the case, the original didn't have racing stripes by default.

LL was always in the business of making custom motorcycle jackets and racing suits. Most pro riders wore LL. You could spec it any way you liked and they'd do it.

There are certainly gray areas in the world of jacket reproductions, and the fact that LL still makes the “Cyclone” arguably alters the equities. That said, I personally am not offended by Addict’s current reproduction of a former LL’s jacket given the differences between Addict’s reproduction and LL’s current model Cyclone. I think I would feel differently if LL still offered this precise model, in the same configuration as existed in the 70s, and Addict copied the current model Cyclone with the same precision.

Jesus, no! There are so not gray areas here it's not even funny. It cannot be any more black and white! They're making knock-offs! If the pattern belongs to LL and if Addict hasn't licensed it, what are we even talking about here? How can it be legit? Cyclone can only be made by LL. Period.

It's literally Aero / SB thing!

On the other hand, Addict's reproduction of LL's 70s Cyclone arguably impairs LL's ability to commemorate / reproduce the jacket itself. That's unfortunate. Like I said, its kinda gray.

LL is making the exact same Cyclone they've always been making, from the exact same pattern, with the exact same hardware. It's literally the exact same jacket they've been making since the 70's. Like, 0% difference.

An original, 70's Cyclone. That's how it always looked. They've made tens of thousands of these, they float all over Europe.

[/QUOTE]

 

[Superfluous]

I know very little about LL, other than that I strongly dislike the patch. Therefore, the nuances, customization of existing models, and historical references addressed in this thread are all beyond my personal knowledge or experience. As I said in my post, the equation changes -- and becomes less gray -- if LL is currently offering the identical model, which appears to be the case (I did not see Lit's comment in his original post regarding the arm bands). As I also stated in my post, if LL were copying an existing, current LL model -- as I now understand to be the case -- my personal evaluation of the conduct would be different. I agree that this type of replication is not cool, and more black and white than gray.

My comment regarding quality was based on the comments on the "London" thread. I have no personal experience with Addict Clothing.

IMHO, this does not quite rise to the level of SB/AL's conduct. According to the accounts I read, SB/AL used actual patterns misappropriated by Will Lauder from Aero. Addict did not steal LL's pattern and, while they likely reverse engineered the jacket, that is one step less egregious than outright stealing the pattern from the originator.