bookster1uk
Vendor
- Messages
- 52
- Location
- United Kingdom
Advice from Bookster
Dear Chasseur, I have taken a look at the photos and read the comments and these are my observations and recommendations.
CHEST The angle of the first photo is perhaps making the chest look a little small but I agree that the chest is probably a little too large for you.
SOLUTION: Chest size 43
WAIST The waist does look fine from the front but at the back it is pulling a little which is why the cloth isn’t hanging correctly down the sides of the jacket.
SOLUTION: 3 inch comfort waist (giving 2” more than current jacket) this will suit your body shape better and the cloth will hang well.
SKIRT: As you say the vents do sit well but if we do down to size 43 then it will be reduced by 1” and especially if you are planning a single vent then we need to add this room back into the skirt (if ordering online add a comment, SKIRT AS SIZE 44 PATTERN)
SHOULDERS: These look slightly too wide, the size 43 will be ½” narrower (¼ inch narrower each side) This will reduce the excessive draping on the upper back and the upper sleeves will also be slightly narrower. The extra room in the waist will help the cloth to hang from the shoulders correctly
ARMHOLE DEPTH: The depth of the size 43 armhole will be slightly higher about 1/2”, as you say difficult to measure and it depends how the armhole wraps around the individual’s shoulder. Our tailors are not able to change the armhole depth on a pattern size, the only way to reduce this is to go down a pattern size and add more room in other areas as we are doing here.
LENGTHS: You suggestion for an inch longer sleeve and back length remaining regular seems fine, it’s very much an individual choice. We can specify the lengths. The narrowing of the shoulder will mean that the lengthening will be just short of an inch.
COLLAR: The collar of 43 will be slightly narrower although we can narrow collars if necessary. With a stiffer shirt collar the gap would be less evident.
3, 2 roll is not possible, our jackets have a chest canvas and the break is fixed.
To summarise, you need to order:
Size 43
3 inch comfort waist
Sleeves 26.5”
Back 30.5”
Special adjustment, skirt as 44 pattern
Looks simple!
Bookster.
Ordinarily we would simply give this advice to the customer in the normal course of our consultations but thought others contributing to the thread might like to hear our opinions.Remember, we are not Bespoke tailors and most of our customers are buying online, also reflect on our pricing for the quality and service we offer.Chasseur said:
Dear Chasseur, I have taken a look at the photos and read the comments and these are my observations and recommendations.
CHEST The angle of the first photo is perhaps making the chest look a little small but I agree that the chest is probably a little too large for you.
SOLUTION: Chest size 43
WAIST The waist does look fine from the front but at the back it is pulling a little which is why the cloth isn’t hanging correctly down the sides of the jacket.
SOLUTION: 3 inch comfort waist (giving 2” more than current jacket) this will suit your body shape better and the cloth will hang well.
SKIRT: As you say the vents do sit well but if we do down to size 43 then it will be reduced by 1” and especially if you are planning a single vent then we need to add this room back into the skirt (if ordering online add a comment, SKIRT AS SIZE 44 PATTERN)
SHOULDERS: These look slightly too wide, the size 43 will be ½” narrower (¼ inch narrower each side) This will reduce the excessive draping on the upper back and the upper sleeves will also be slightly narrower. The extra room in the waist will help the cloth to hang from the shoulders correctly
ARMHOLE DEPTH: The depth of the size 43 armhole will be slightly higher about 1/2”, as you say difficult to measure and it depends how the armhole wraps around the individual’s shoulder. Our tailors are not able to change the armhole depth on a pattern size, the only way to reduce this is to go down a pattern size and add more room in other areas as we are doing here.
LENGTHS: You suggestion for an inch longer sleeve and back length remaining regular seems fine, it’s very much an individual choice. We can specify the lengths. The narrowing of the shoulder will mean that the lengthening will be just short of an inch.
COLLAR: The collar of 43 will be slightly narrower although we can narrow collars if necessary. With a stiffer shirt collar the gap would be less evident.
3, 2 roll is not possible, our jackets have a chest canvas and the break is fixed.
To summarise, you need to order:
Size 43
3 inch comfort waist
Sleeves 26.5”
Back 30.5”
Special adjustment, skirt as 44 pattern
Looks simple!
Bookster.
