Cockpit G-1, then and now.

[Seb Lucas]

And here are the measurements from my original Cockpit Navy G-1. Note the main difference is in the waist:

Those jackets look like they could be same pattern to me - only the waist varies for whatever reason. Patterns always vary by half an inch or so that's almost inevitable. Mass producing affordable jackets is not a science, nor does it ask for artisan precision.

Machinists at the factory sometimes work differently maybe this is why your jacket is 5 cm narrower. I have also noticed that sometimes Cockpit mislabel tall jackets as regular and visa versa.

I can't imagine that the owner would know the measurements from memory. That's pretty micro. Most people she deals with will ask for a large, medium, a 42 or a tall jacket and that's that.

Being anal about measurements is a more recent preoccupation and still only applies to a small percentage of buyers at this end of the market.

I do know that after talking to one of the Cockpit sales guy for a bit last year, he said that sometimes people ask for trim fit and there is no agreement as to what this means so they struggle with the term. The sales guy had no conception of how shoulder width changes the look and fit of an A2 jacket and thought that a 18.5 inch shoulder belonged to a size 36.

Additionally, many of their customers are middle aged civilians with weight issues so a precise fit is really a priority. "Can I do up the zip over my stomach? Yep. It fits." Done.

 

[bobm]

I like the older one too. Better color in the collar for sure. And a much better fit. A 40R is on it's way here, so will have a good chance to try both sizes on for fit. One jacket will go back.

How long ago did you buy the first one?

 

[TXFlyGuy]

How long ago did you buy the first one?

Exactly 2 years ago.

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Those jackets look like they could be same pattern to me - only the waist varies for whatever reason. Patterns always vary by half an inch or so that's almost inevitable. Mass producing affordable jackets is not a science, nor does it ask for artisan precision.

Machinists at the factory sometimes work differently maybe this is why your jacket is 5 cm narrower. I have also noticed that sometimes Cockpit mislabel tall jackets as regular and visa versa.

I can't imagine that the owner would know the measurements from memory. That's pretty micro. Most people she deals with will ask for a large, medium, a 42 or a tall jacket and that's that.

Being anal about measurements is a more recent preoccupation and still only applies to a small percentage of buyers at this end of the market.

I do know that after talking to one of the Cockpit sales guy for a bit last year, he said that sometimes people ask for trim fit and there is no agreement as to what this means so they struggle with the term. The sales guy had no conception of how shoulder width changes the look and fit of an A2 jacket and thought that a 18.5 inch shoulder belonged to a size 36.

Additionally many of their customers a middle aged civilians with weight issues so a precise fit is really a priority. "Can I do up the zip over my stomach? Yep. It fits." Done.

Two inches / 5 cm is enough of a difference to make the jacket too large. The remainder of the jacket is Ok, just the waist is big. This large of a difference cannot be attributed to the different workers habits, or sloppiness. I believe it is a design change in the make/cut of the jacket.

For someone with a large gut, this would be the perfect G-1. For those of us who are trim in stature, this coat does not fit, and does not "hang" nicely on the wearer.

Perhaps the earlier version I had was actually off in size? Maybe, but I doubt it.

Their tolerance of 1/2" is understandable, and acceptable. This jacket is 4 times that amount. That is why they must have changed the pattern just a bit, so as to fit those with large guts.

My job requires a full physical every 6 months, so close attention is paid to weight, and gaining/losing pounds. The nurse said men were more conscious of this than women!

No worries, as a size 40R is coming, plus a size 38R from G&B.

Stand by for a full report.

 

[Seb Lucas]

As far as the manufacturer is concerned I'd say they would see this as the same pattern. But they may have adjusted the waist. You need to measure another one of same size to see if this is indeed a new thing before concluding that they are all different. And as you say, the earlier one may have been off too.

What would be interesting is to measure 4 or 5 of them and see what the differences are. I have bought items of clothing before that were radically different in cut by inches but were a mistake made in manufacturing, so you never know.

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Just for general info, here is a photo with me in a US Authentic G-1, size 40R. The coat is very nice, but at 20", the shoulders are about 1.5" / 2.0" too wide.

 

[kojax]

nice jacket looks big on you

 

[TXFlyGuy]

nice jacket looks big on you

The jacket is actually on the "tight" side, so it's not really that big. The photo and pose distort the fit, so you can't really tell.
But those shoulders are a full 20". I need an 18" shoulder. That is the only issue with the jacket.

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Here is an example of a jacket, slightly too large. G&B A-2, size 42R. Shoulda got a 40...