Coat/Jacket length?

[Matt Crunk]

A lot has been said here about sleeve and pants length, but are there any general rules of coat length? I'm talking suit coat and sport coat. I've always heard that with your arms straight down at you side, you should be able to just curl your fingers underneath the hem of the coat. But I see many that are a bit longer or shorter than that.

I've never given this measurement much thought, but I recently got a new (old) suit that fits me perfectly in the sleeve but the coat bottom seems two to three inches shorter than what I'm used to. More importantly, what is vintage correct for a Golden Era look? Shorter or longer than modern, or just about the same?

 

[herringbonekid]

A lot has been said here about sleeve and pants length, but are there any general rules of coat length?

generally speaking, half the distance from the base of the collar to the floor is a good guide (this doesn't take into account odd proportions such as long or short legs).

you should learn to see whether the jacket looks right and not rely on things like thumb knuckles etc. as all you're doing then is relying on rules which avoid you having to use your eyes.

trust your own judgement; if it looks too long it's probably too long. if it looks too short it's probably too short.

 

[Tomasso]

First and foremost a jacket shoud cover your posterior.

The formula HBK mentions above is the best to start with, before making adjustments to accomodate any variances from the norm.

Arm length should never enter into the equation. Sombody should research the origin of that nonsense.

Again, make sure to cover your a$$.

 

[Fastuni]

More importantly, what is vintage correct for a Golden Era look? Shorter or longer than modern, or just about the same?

Jacket length varied during the "Golden Age" according to fashion... so time and place of your desired style is of relevance as well.
Early and late 1930's European jackets for example were quite short and not always covering the entire rear.

 

[Tomasso]

Early and late 1930's European jackets for example were quite short and not always covering the entire rear.

That's how the fashionistas are wearing them today.

 

[Fastuni]

Except that nowadays they are "slim fit" (two sizes too small) and worn with ridiculously low waisted skinny trousers.

-

Now this looks good to me:

1932

1938 in the middle is well proportioned in my view...

 

[Two Types]

I'm with the continental Europeans on this one: shorter jackets (i.e. that don't cover the entire bum) can look good and are certainly period authentic.
It will depend on the suit and the wearer.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Wide trousers with a good drape also help. Would look the same in cheeky italian pants.

 

[herringbonekid]

i'm less inclined to go with the shorter jacket these days (read: as i get older).
i saw a couple of gents in 1940s British DBs at Goodwood not long ago and while they looked splendid overall i thought the rear view of the shorter jacket wasn't helping.
sometimes the lower seat of a pair of wide legged trousers doesn't do the most elegant things.

 

[Tomasso]

Can we all agree that this jacket is too short?

 

[Two Types]

But it helps bring attention to his handbag

 

[Fastuni]

Looks like he was born in that jacket.

 

[dh66]

Maybe he's on his way to work?

I prefer a little longer cut

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[SteveAS]

I'm in the group that thinks it's best if the jacket (just) covers the bum, especially with the recent trend for adult men to wear suits that fit them like they bought the suits in their early teenage years.

 

[Edward]

1938 in the middle is well proportioned in my view...

Yes, that would be my preference too.

I'm with the continental Europeans on this one: shorter jackets (i.e. that don't cover the entire bum) can look good and are certainly period authentic.
It will depend on the suit and the wearer.

Yes. A lot of jackets I see today seem to be cut a bit too long, as with the sleeves. So often I find nowadays 'regular' would be a 'long' fitting in terms of it looking right.