Cleaning an Aero jacket

[Rev-O]

Hello All

First post from a new member here, but have been visiting the site on and off for years.

Yesterday I bought a secondhand Aero jacket (FQHH Highwayman) and I have two questions, if I may?

1.) the seller said was about 4 years old and he'd bought to from new. I know that there was an issue with some Steerhide being labelled as Horsehide from, if I recall rightly, about 2008 - 2013. So: is there a way to definitely tell one type of leather from the other? Basically I'd like to know that what I've bought is what it says on the label.

2.) and most importantly, the previous owner used the jacket on his motorbike. Now I'm a biker myself and I know how riding gear picks up dirt (think of your car windshield . . . .) So what is the best way to clean the outside of the jacket? I have the Pecard's wax ready to apply but thought I ought to prep the surface first (or maybe not?)

My current plan is to wipe the whole thing down with some warm soapy water and then rise it off thoroughly, leave to dry slowly at room temp them get the Pecard out.

Is that a good plan or a bad one? Any tips or advice?

Thanks!

 

[BobJ]

That's exactly what I did after four years of heavy use. I was surprised how little dirt there was to come off - scrub as I might, the sponge and mildly soapy warm water stayed visually clean. I was surprised. But then again, I don't ride a bike.

The Pecards made the leather feel wonderful.

And, Welcome!

 

[Rev-O]

Thanks Bob. I was just a little concerned about using detergents on the leather, don't want to strip off the finish or damage it.

Glad it worked for you, think I'll give it a go over the weekend.

 

[seres]

I mix some Oakwood Glycerine Leather Cleaner, which is a mild pH neutral saddle soap, and warm water, mixed about 20:1. Any neutral pH saddle soap would work, such as Lexol, Fiebings, or Stubben Glycerin Saddle Soap.

Then wet a white terry-cloth towel in the mix, wring it out thoroughly, and lightly dab the leather. Start in a hidden spot, like under the collar.

Be real gentle with the cloth, and avoid rubbing the leather, or spending much time in one spot which would overly wet the leather.

The white color of the cleaning towel helps me to notice if any of the leather color is coming off. Then allow it o dry naturally.

After it dries, evaluate the leather condition, because you may not need any conditioner. I have never conditioned a jacket less than 5 years old.

I’ve cleaned over a half-dozen jackets, with no problems.

 

[Rev-O]

right, I gave it a gentle wipe down with some warm soapy water and a two-sided sponge / soft nylon pan scourer. Surprised at how little dirt came off. Water turned faintly grey as it bled some dye but not much. It never let it get more than damp (not really wet) and then dabbed it dry with towel. It's now hanging up to finish off as it's still quite moist.

Next step: Pecards! I think I might warm some up to liquid and apply by wiping it on with a sponge, any thoughts on that? Seems like a sensible solution to me and will help get an even coverage and work it into the seams and crevices.

 

[BobJ]

Be careful with warming the Pecards, it's easy to get TOO MUCH on the leather. I ruined a Barbour waxed cotton jacket by doing that once.

It's better to do two or more thin coats than one thick one.

 

[Rev-O]

Thanks Bob, that's good to know. I also have some Renapur which seems "lighter" (creamier?) than the stiffer wax of Pecards so I might try that as well or instead. The jacket is only 4 years old but I enjoy treating leather and it will make the jacket feel more like "mine" and less like the previous owner's. I always change the oil in a "new" (to me, secondhand) bike, too, for the same reasons and also so I know when it was last done and what was put in it.

I hear good things about Letherique Rejuvenator oil, so I might get some of that too . . . !

 

[seres]

On the few jackets that I have conditioned, I used Obenauf's Leather Oil. I have achieved similar results with Pecards, after first warming it up until it turns into a liquid.

Then I put a small dab, only a few drops, on my palm, worked that into both my palms, and then gently massaged a small section of the jacket. One dab for each front panel, one dab per sleeve, and two dabs for the back.

At the time of application, it always seems like you need more, but let it dry and absorb into the leather for several days before even considering another application. Be careful and don’t use too much, as you can't take it off later.

 

[robrinay]

On a jacket that isn’t vintage I’ve just used a couple of baby wipes to remove any surface dirt and when dry (in minutes) I’ve not used any conditioner unless the surface looked dull or dry. In these cases I’ve used a very light application of Pecard and when that ran out - recently, Vaseline using my fingertips.

 

[Peacoat]

I would use Pecard straight from the container. It is easy to apply, and you won't over saturated the leather. I understand about wanting to start fresh with the jacket, and I agree, but I wouldn't give it anymore conditioner treatments after this one. If you still have it in 15 or 20 years, or if you get caught in the rain a few times, it might be time to condition it again. With conditioner, less is more (better). Also the conditioner will destroy whatever patina has developed on the jacket.

For cleaning, if ever the need should arise, I use Lexol Leather Cleaner, which is, as seres says several posts back, ph neutral. Lexol makes a conditioner as well as a cleaner; don't confuse the two.

BTW, welcome to the Lounge. PC

 

[Rev-O]

Thanks everyone, Pecards now applied in front of a blazing woodburning stove; so far so good: the leather feels nicely waxy but not full-fat greasy. Might apply more in a couple of days but think I've done enough. Very happy with the jacket and with the results of my efforts.

 

[Monitor]

Thanks everyone, Pecards now applied in front of a blazing woodburning stove; so far so good: the leather feels nicely waxy but not full-fat greasy. Might apply more in a couple of days but think I've done enough. Very happy with the jacket and with the results of my efforts.

Go very light with Pecards otherwise you might overgrease it and that stuff is impossible to get out. I've accidentally done that on one jacket and it's still greasy. Not to mentioned the greasy parts are prone to cracking sooner than an old and dry jacket. . .

Four years old Aero doesn't really need any leather conditioner. Baby wipes will do the trick. Even a damp towel is more than enough. Pecard is okay when the jacket becomes dry and almost crusty. It's just a waste using it on a new jacket.

TBH, I don't think leather conditioners really do anything much at all, other than just make the leather shiny for a few days and that's it. Had best results with silicone but people are mostly against that...

 

[Seb Lucas]

I agree with Monitor. Leave it alone now. Really there's no need to condition a leather jacket - well maybe once every 25 years. They deal with water just fine.

 

[willyto]

There's no need to condition a 4 year old leather jacket. Follow Aero's advice and don't do anything to it until 20-30 years have passed.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Worst thing you can do is grease up a fairly new Aero jacket trying for what you may think is extra protection or food for the leather.

 

[robrinay]

Be careful with warming the Pecards, it's easy to get TOO MUCH on the leather. I ruined a Barbour waxed cotton jacket by doing that once.

It's better to do two or more thin coats than one thick one.

I’ve only reproofed a Barbour wax jacket once and I followed the online help videos using their ‘thornproof dressing’. Once I’d finished the application of the melted dressing I finished by ‘blow drying’ it with a hot hair dryer and got a factory no shine finish. Ps never do this to a leather jacket

 

[Rev-O]

I’ve only reproofed a Barbour wax jacket once and I followed the online help videos using their ‘thornproof dressing’. Once I’d finished the application of the melted dressing I finished by ‘blow drying’ it with a hot hair dryer and got a factory no shine finish. Ps never do this to a leather jacket

I think Barbour use large heated tables to re-wax jackets so everything is kept warm and smooth.

 

[Rev-O]

Well, I gave the jacket the lightest smearing of Pecards and am very very pleased with the result: I won't be adding any more but it feels a little more supple and soft and lot more weatherproof.

I think that because it had used on a bike it had maybe dried out a bit more than usual for a 4 year old jacket (bike gear catches a lot of wind and UV). There were also a few scuff and scratches too that the wax has smoothed over.

I must emphasise that I didn't overdo it: it was was really just a very light wipe over with greasy hands rather than applying the wax to the leather. Keeping everything warm helped, too: no dollops of stiff stuff just to be worked in. The almost liquid consistency means it was an ultra thin application that was seemed to be quickly absorbed. Nice way to really get to know the jacket, too.

All in all it went well.

 

[JacketAddict]

My leather tailor that works on hundreds and hundreds of jackets and is well known in my area for all types of leathers suggests Lexol. FWIW. I also had an old very used Aero highwayman in h/h - I cleaned it with Lexol cleaner first - lots of dirt came off - then I treated it with some Langlitz dressing and the results are very good. I have also used Lexol conditioner to good effect.