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CHP AL's, Cal's, Langlitz, Vanson Photo repository thread

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,800
Location
Iowa
Kicking off a new thread here for several reasons, in particular noted no specific place to input a vintage "Al's" Leather jacket, do a review and provide photo documentation. Also I have observed considerable interest in the California Highway Patrol style jacket over the past few years, so wanted to provide a place for folks to head to collect & share information about these great jackets. I have several jackets to add down the road and even a comparison or two between brands, sizes and styles of these jackets. I hope others will add in as well!

I have personally become quite devoted to this style of jacket, these just seem to fit and move with the wearer quite well. I have a theory on why, which I'll explain later in this review, but I do not (ever) claim to be an expert on form, fit & function of a jacket. I just know I really appreciate it when I do find a jacket that "disappears" on me, you could do most any project in these jackets, within reason and if it's a cool temperature outside. Also, these jackets are a little more subtle and less eye-catching than the Perfecto style, especially in straight zip form with brass hardware. Which brings me to the jacket I'll review below.

Al's Leather Straight Zip CHP "50"

I ran across this jacket on ebay very recently, thanks to @KBlake for listing it in the finds & Deals thread. At first, seeing the tag size of "50" I immediately thought "too big" and just tried to ignore it. However the more I got looking at the jacket in the ad, and observing how nice of condition it was in I finally took the risk and bought it. Very happy that I did.

Al_02.JPG

These jackets have a very effective side lacing method, so while the loop & lace area is quite short (and not highly visible either) it really reigns in the side and overall circumference of the jacket, at the waist yes but also up the sides toward the armpit area as well. I believe this along with the way the waistband is setup with built in gaps, and just a large area of exterior leather that molds to the wearer (see marked photo below) is a large part of what makes this design rather comfortable to wear while also affording very solid protection to a motorcycle rider in the even of a fall. I would be interested to know how & when this style came into existence, I do know that Langlitz has built jacket this way since the late 1940's.

These gaps -
1726451813250.png


So onto this specific jacket. It's ~ 7.5 lbs of quite heavy and still somewhat stiff leather. There are a couple small tears in the lining, there is also a small heat mark outside where the police badge holder appears to have been removed. Also the belt loops the jacket was originally made with are all removed. Not an issue there. The Al's Leather tag, all pocket bags, and the rest of the lining are in great shape. There are snaps in place for fur collar, but it's not with the jacket. I may consider a nice brown fur collar at some point, as I really do love this jacket. The YKK-brand zippers all look original and work as intended. The inside pocket lining appears to be denim, a simple, cost effective way to have a durable inside pocket. This jacket has no odors, it is clean and appears to have been very well cared for overall.

Al_14.JPG Al_19.JPG Al_06.JPG


As the photo above shows, the leather on this jacket, which is likely steerhide, is something to behold. It is quite thick, but not spongy and still has some breaking in left to do. There is serious graining going on with this jacket, however it is not printed grain.


Al_07.JPG Al_08.JPG Al_09.JPG

I have conditioned the jacket since it arrived. Some of the "whitish" color you may see in the leather is from the Horseman's One Step, which is quite similar to Urad Tenderly. It is a highly hydrating conditioner. I then used simple Lexol 4-way care after this to restore some of the darker black leather appearance. I'll likely put a light application of White's Boot conditioner on this in a month of so, hopefully after I have been able to give it some wearing.

Overall - very happy with this Al's - thank you for reading, and even more to sharing your own CHP stories & photos :)

DSC_0342.JPG
 
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unhatted

One of the Regulars
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265
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UK
This seems like the right place to post some comparative shots of my 4 CHP cross zips. Like many of you here, I’ve found these somewhat moreish!

IMG_4766.jpeg


L-R (and in order of acquisition)
Fivestar, Als
(Als?) Leather Man, Cal

One of the interesting things about having too many of these has been the opportunity to compare various details. In doing so I’ve noticed a different between Cals and Als that I think may not have come up yet: pocket angle. Cal pockets appear to be at an approx 50° angle vs Also which are more like 70°. This gives the two jackets quite a different visual character, with the iconic centre pocket seam appearing higher up the torso on an Als jacket (about 45% from the bottom) compared to a Cal (about 40% from the bottom. Since this seam determines where the lapels can be folded, this might be part of the reasons Cal lapels tend to be bigger, extending further down the jacket.

Both repro and real Cals also have a more curved, and less pointed yoke, though I think I’ve seen Cals with a pointed yoke too.

The Als/LM have black rather than white pocket linings.

And finally, and this is hard to phrase, but the ratio of the bottom hem seams is different on the Cal and Als. The Cal has more even spacing between the seams whereas the Als/LM have a very narrow central ‘pipe’ if that makes sense?

Hope this helps add to the Als/Cal identification playbook!
 
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unhatted

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
UK
Anyway, here are the jackets:

Five Star 1960s Cal repro: Starting with the odd one out. This is a sized-down repro of Bahap100’s 1960s Cal in premium goat. I’m not sure if the pattern is graded exactly as Cal would have, but Five Star do a good job of reproducing details so I suspect this is still reasonably instructive in terms of the details of a 60s Cal.

IMG_4779.jpeg
IMG_4780.jpeg
IMG_4785.jpeg


Of note:
No shoulder gussets
Curved (not pointed) yoke
Double cuff stitching
Huge, pointed lapels
Beaver tail
50° Pocket angle
60/40 split above/below pocket seam
White pocket lining
Weight: 2kg/4.4lb

IMG_6077.jpeg
IMG_6079.jpeg


As this was custom sized it inevitably fits well and the mouton collar means it gets a lot of wear. Five Star actually do a pretty decent job with this repro though I note the collar snaps are attached directly to the lining and not reinforced with fabric backing.
 
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unhatted

One of the Regulars
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265
Location
UK
Als: No label but I guess this is an early 80s Als, with brass YKK (rather than plastic) hardware. This is by far the heaviest, in an incredibly thick, robust cowhide.

IMG_4771.jpeg
IMG_4772.jpeg
IMG_4775.jpeg


Of note:
Shoulder gussets
Pointed yoke
Single cuff stitching
Smaller lapels
Beaver tail
Dull brass YKK hardware
70° Pocket angle
55/45 split above/below pocket seam
Black pocket lining
Weight: 3.6kg 8lb

IMG_6081.jpeg
IMG_6083.jpeg


This is sadly too big for me!
 
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unhatted

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
UK
(Als?) Leather Man: Also unlabelled but this seems to match every Leather Man I’ve seen. Details are very much like my Als but with no beaver tail and rounded top lapels (with rounded stitching). No idea how to date these as I don’t think they ever got the plastic zips, but I guess 80s. The leather is much softer than my Als but noticeably thicker and heavier than the Cal below.

IMG_4786.jpeg
IMG_4787.jpeg
IMG_4789.jpeg


Of note:
Shoulder gussets
Pointed yoke
Single cuff stitching
Smaller lapels, rounded upper lapels
No beaver tail
Dull brass YKK hardware
70° Pocket angle
55/45 split above/below pocket seam
Black pocket lining
Weight: 2.5kg 5.5lb

IMG_6073.jpeg
IMG_6075.jpeg


Love the fit on this, though it’s SHORT, particularly with the straight back hem!
 
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unhatted

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
UK
Cal(?): Unlabelled, but pretty sure this is a cal, pretty sure it’s 70s from the zip pulls. This is the only one with ‘bright’ reddish gold colour hardware, which gives it a more obviously retro vibe. This has been said often about 1970s Cal cowhide quality, but I was surprised by how lightweight the hide is in comparison to the Als. The leather is nice, but it’s definitely a less heavyweight jacket.

IMG_4767.jpeg
IMG_4768.jpeg
IMG_4770.jpeg


Of note:
Shoulder gussets
Curved yoke
Double cuff stitching
Huge, pointed lapels (not quite as big as 5*)
Beaver tail
Bright brass Talon hardware
50° Pocket angle
60/40 split above/below pocket seam
White pocket lining (illegible size)
Weight: 2kg 4.5lb

IMG_6067.jpeg
IMG_6069.jpeg


Possibly slightly on the large side but it covers my belt, which is a plus!
 
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AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,800
Location
Iowa
Excellent reviews of these 4 very nice CHP jackets!
I would say the fit on the three you noted is about as spot-on as could be had.
Even the larger one isn't too bad to my eyes.

Interesting note about pockets and waistband details, good sharp eye on things.

Quite the nice collection and yes, there are "lighter" Cal's out there in the wild as well.
 

Herrvallmo

One of the Regulars
Messages
222
Amazing sum up/review @unhatted! a bit dangerous for my bank-account though lol(it sure is a moreish model of jacket!).

Jokes aside, great details and pictures and some real nice leather! :)

Cheers!
 

unhatted

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
UK
I should say, that while it lacks a certain something in comparison to the others, the Five Star has by far the neatest stitching. Hard to find a straight line among the rest, which is of course part of their charm!
 

Doctor Death

New in Town
Messages
28
I've had my eye on the Vanson CHP jacket for quite some time. (The MK2 version)

The Clint Eastwood movie "Magnum Force" and the cult classic "Electra Glide in Blue" come to mind. Those "heroes" in CHP jackets riding around on motorcycles shooting holes in criminals (and anyone else who gets in the way) with their .357 Magnums sure looked cool doing it. Makes you want to run out and get a .357 Colt Python and a black CHP leather jacket!

This thread just put it over the top for me. Now I'll have to get one for sure. (The CHP jacket, I mean. The Colt Python would be nice too, but other than the shooting range, it wouldn't get much use.) Just have to contain myself until Vanson's Labor Day sale next year!
 

Leather Walker

Practically Family
Messages
624
Location
Barcelona
My passion for CHP / LAPD jackets are known by almost everybody here: my first post on TFL was about identifying one, and once I started looking in the 2nd-hand market, I haven't stopped trying to get them.

I like the ‘family photo’ you've made of yours, @unhatted. In the next few days, I'll try to do the same of mine.

1) Al's. This is made in heavyweight cowhide, pliable but thick. Late 80s. YKK zippers. The lining is thicker than Cal. Padded with epaulettes and snaps for a fur collar, but no action-back, belt loops or ducktail.
20210207.jpg


2) Cal. In a midweight cow?steer?hide. Early 70s. Serval zippers, and Talon at cuffs. The size is written in blue pen in the inner pocket canvas. Epaulettes, snaps for a collar, belt loops and ducktail. No scratches or scuffs.
1698839672073-jpg.556766


3) Cal. 70s, this padded CHP comes with brass Talon and Serval. Action-back, snaps for a fur collar, epaulettes, ducktail and belt loops... all the custom options! Love when it's belted with a Sam Browne.
1698839672055-jpg.556768


4) Cal. Almost exact the same as previous one but some sizes smaller. The only thing that sets it apart is the lack of action back, and unfortunately the main Talon zip was replaced by one YKK at some point. The leather, which I think is steerhide, is more worn than the other jackets, even damage in some places.
1698839672038-jpg.556767


5) Al's. This jacket is made in mid/lightweight cowhide, 1985? with Talon hardware, which is curious. Like the other Al's, this one doesn't have ducktail or belt loops, but action back. No snaps at collar.
1734206394660 (1).jpg


6) Langlitz. This Columbia is made in tough cowhide, March 1992. Leather lined gun pocket that drives me crazy, plus five pockets. Longer than most of Columbians I've seen, this hasn't belt loops, and no snaps at collar either.
1710587832255 (1).jpg
 
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Leather Walker

Practically Family
Messages
624
Location
Barcelona
View attachment 664146
Al's padded.
Light weight fun
@Al 916 One of the few padded CHP without epaulettes I've ever seen. So clean and special.

Cal(?): Unlabelled, but pretty sure this is a cal, pretty sure it’s 70s from the zip pulls. This is the only one with ‘bright’ reddish gold colour hardware, which gives it a more obviously retro vibe. This has been said often about 1970s Cal cowhide quality, but I was surprised by how lightweight the hide is in comparison to the Als. The leather is nice, but it’s definitely a less heavyweight jacket.

View attachment 663857
Cal, for sure. Love when the gold brass zipper turns reddish. Beautiful.
 
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