Choosing the jacket

[MrProper]

No misunderstanding, I got what you had said.
But about standard jacket its valuable info. I remember you said though that the leather is a bit thinner than one should expect. Is that correct?

Not quite.
I had written that the leather from the shearling of the Aero is slightly thicker. But even a 5* Shearling is solid.
I now have ten jackets from 5* of which three are Shearlings. If I were not satisfied with the shearling, I would have only one ;-)
Number 4 is currently in production.

Are you on Facebook? There's a group called FiveStar Leather Announcements & Sales (https://www.facebook.com/groups/fivestarleather). In this group you can find many pictures of customers showing their Shearlings. You can also ask any questions there.

 

[JuliaG]

All right, thank you, @MrProper
But I will also ask questions here))))))

See, I dont know, how they should fit, meaning even if I look on photos, I dont understand that, but I do remember someone mentioning they are short..is that right or not?

 

[JuliaG]

And when I look at their "most expensive"b-3, it creates a look of the guy having quite a belly)). It was noticed by another person. And so the lower part looks wide.

 

[JuliaG]

See here, the guy in jacket. It looks wide in the lower part.

https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/fivestar-leather-repro-of-type-b3-two-tone-sheepskin-jacket

Are we wrong?

 

[JuliaG]

Not quite.
I had written that the leather from the shearling of the Aero is slightly thicker. But even a 5* Shearling is solid.
I now have ten jackets from 5* of which three are Shearlings. If I were not satisfied with the shearling, I would have only one ;-)
Number 4 is currently in production.

Are you on Facebook? There's a group called FiveStar Leather Announcements & Sales (https://www.facebook.com/groups/fivestarleather). In this group you can find many pictures of customers showing their Shearlings. You can also ask any questions there.

By the way, I was talking about leather, not shearling. You said you found shearling brilliant but the leather is somewhat thinner.

 

[MrProper]

By the way, I was talking about leather, not shearling. You said you found shearling brilliant but the leather is somewhat thinner.

Just to be sure...you know what shearling is? Treated leather on one side, treated fur on the other. When I say shearling, I mean the combination of both. And yes, the leather side of the first 5* shearling is slightly thinner than that of my Aero. But that doesn't make the jacket any worse. Even more so, where you can reinforce stressed parts of the jacket.
However, I do not want to talk you into anything. Because taste is too different. What pleases one, does not have to please the other. Therefore look rather for a used Eastman or Aero. You may not like it then either, but it sells better.

 

[JuliaG]

Just to be sure...you know what shearling is? Treated leather on one side, treated fur on the other. When I say shearling, I mean the combination of both. And yes, the leather side of the first 5* shearling is slightly thinner than that of my Aero. But that doesn't make the jacket any worse. Even more so, where you can reinforce stressed parts of the jacket.
However, I do not want to talk you into anything. Because taste is too different. What pleases one, does not have to please the other. Therefore look rather for a used Eastman or Aero. You may not like it then either, but it sells better.

Yes, I know what shearling is. Karsten, please, rest assured that you are not talking me into anything. I will think with my own head. Your info and commitment are highly appreciated and very valuable. Please, keep posting).

 

[CatsCan]

I doubt it woukd be sufficient for Russian winter.

I think you are right. The N-1 will not be sufficient for severe russian winter conditions.

There is one really cool coat from the old swedish army which was used in severe arctic conditions. I think they were called Mats Larsson after the initial maker/designer. The swedish name under which you get the best google search results is "Livpäls". There are older models in off white: the M1909 Livpäls. They are a) very unique b) hard to come by and thus c) very expensive in as new condition. But these are serious winter coats! They can stand hardest military abuse. Soldier proof so to speak.
Due to their construction they are surprisingly light weight, have huge pockets and a serious collar! They are lined with sheep skin with long curly fur, not shearling.

This coat is a statement when a modern man wears them in my opinion. Don't be put off by the word vintage swedish army. These coats are extremely expensive in like new conditions and he will be earning a lot of compliments for it when it fits well.

I would avoid most modern brand's leather constructed jackets. They are simply not designed for arctic steppe weather. Shearling bomber jackets as used in WWII are warm but only hip length and don't protect the butt area from the cold, bomber crews wore belly high shearling pants with these jackets. Integrated heating systems gave additional warmth especially in the boots. The modern replica is mostly worn just as a jacket without all these additional pieces. This way they don't work in severe russian winters when he does not wear the right kind of pants and boots to tackle the harsh climate.

I have seen too many men wearing a warm winter jacket, normal denim pants and high street fashion brand shoes and freezing their ass off on our typical Christmas markets. When I go there I am very warm and cozy but everyone is looking at me with "what film crew does he belong to?".. or "is he planning to climb Everest?"

 

[CatsCan]

Nigel Cabourn has done some arctic coats which are maybe a good alternative. But again, no leather, sorry.

 

[coldaffinity]

All right, thank you, @MrProper
But I will also ask questions here))))))

See, I dont know, how they should fit, meaning even if I look on photos, I dont understand that, but I do remember someone mentioning they are short..is that right or not?

These are short jackets, take a look at the ANJ-4 thread to see how people wear them.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/anj-4-jackets.76334/

Photo of a B-2 jacket

 

[Aloysius]

Someone also mentioned that 5* jackets are short. And they indeed look short. How does it comply with standard fit? Lost.

That is the normal length for pilot leather jackets, so that the pilot can sit in the plane while flying.

 

[JuliaG]

That is the normal length for pilot leather jackets, so that the pilot can sit in the plane while flying.

Yes, I know. I meant that someone compared same jacket length between five stars and others

 

[JuliaG]

These are short jackets, take a look at the ANJ-4 thread to see how people wear them.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/anj-4-jackets.76334/

Photo of a B-2 jacket

Yes, I know. BTW, I cant find if shearling length differ between 3 versions of ANJ-4. I see how zipper does differ, does the lower edge of the shearling "move up" together with zipper?

 

[Jhonnybebueno]

@JuliaG Have you considered a B-7 parka, (sorry if someone else already suggested this) those were made for the USAAF personel deployed in extremely cold places during WW2. Aero leather does a damn good repro (at least to my taste). The original colour is white, but they have it in seal brown and redskin.
In my humble opinion, I think that would be the best sheepskin coat/jacket to handle a rough russian winter

 

[Aloysius]

Yes, I know. I meant that someone compared same jacket length between five stars and others

All of the 'accurate' reproductions have the short length as this was part of the original.

I would still say you should strongly consider the N-3B jacket which continues to be issued as a US Air Force arctic parka, fit for Russian winters. It is much longer than the sheepskin jackets, yet much easier to move in as well. It's a really beautiful jacket and the pilots preferred it over the sheepskins by far, when they were replaced in the Army.

 

[JuliaG]

Guys, Russian winter is not something very extreme)) We can some winters get temperatures below -20C but that is not permanent, plus the person needs the jacket for short distances, not long walks. For these purposes leather is perfectly fine.
I know that these jackets are short. For some people, like the guy, it is acceptable, but a couple of cm could really make a difference in Russia

 

[JuliaG]

All of the 'accurate' reproductions have the short length as this was part of the original.

I would still say you should strongly consider the N-3B jacket which continues to be issued as a US Air Force arctic parka, fit for Russian winters. It is much longer than the sheepskin jackets, yet much easier to move in as well. It's a really beautiful jacket and the pilots preferred it over the sheepskins by far, when they were replaced in the Army.

I will look into them anyway!

 

[marker2037]

This thread...

 

[JuliaG]

This thread...

You are welcome to pass by

 

[CatsCan]

Guys, Russian winter is not something very extreme)) We can some winters get temperatures below -20C but that is not permanent, plus the person needs the jacket for short distances, not long walks.

Depends on where he is based in Russia. There are places where temps easily can drop below -40C for prolonged periods.

But based on your new info about what conditions he would likely use the jacket for, I would think all of the previously mentioned jackets will be fine. The winter you are describing does not differ very much from the winters many of us can expect in their country. I thought you mentioned "Russian Winters" to make us aware that he needed something more serious than most of us would need.

Cats