Choosing the jacket

[El Marro]

What is "broken grain"? I have never heard that expression.

Here is a description from the Eastman website

 

[marker2037]

I think "broken grain" just refers to OVERLY loose grain leather which you find, particularly on sheepskin bombers.

I wouldn't worry about that. You're not going to get some dud leather from Eastman.

 

[Carlos840]

Here is a description from the Eastman website
View attachment 377699

They don't really describe what it is, just that they haev reproduced it...
Only mention of grain break i can find is regarding shoes, and people over there go crazy when they see things that we would find completely normal on a leather jacket.
They want shoes to stay smooth and as soon as they see creases they call that grain break...

 

[marker2037]

Correct, it's mostly undesirable on shoes/boots whereas on jackets (at least the guys in this forum) crave it.

I follow both trends as well.

 

[AeroFan_07]

"Broken Grain" seems to be an invented term. This is common in business however can be confusing to customers. Personally I do not like that term as it iimplies that your brand-new product is in fact - slightly - "broken" already! For some folks (a rather small percentage it would seem) this idea of a "pre-broken" product may hold some value. However to the vast majority of others, it's like buying a new car or truck that already has rust developing on portions of the vehicle. We simply would not accept that!

So I do not think that is the intent here, however I could see how the term "broken" for any part would cause confusion and indeed frustration for somone looking to purchase a product.

 

[JuliaG]

Julia,
From reading the Eastman website it sounds like the broken grain simply refers to the outward appearance of the sheepskin. It should not affect the durability or longevity of the jacket.

Strange, there are too many definitions of this..

 

[JuliaG]

"Broken Grain" seems to be an invented term. This is common in business however can be confusing to customers. Personally I do not like that term as it iimplies that your brand-new product is in fact - slightly - "broken" already! For some folks (a rather small percentage it would seem) this idea of a "pre-broken" product may hold some value. However to the vast majority of others, it's like buying a new car or truck that already has rust developing on portions of the vehicle. We simply would not accept that!

So I do not think that is the intent here, however I could see how the term "broken" for any part would cause confusion and indeed frustration for somone looking to purchase a product.

Especially when someone says "I will never buy broken grain again"))))

 

[JuliaG]

Here is a description from the Eastman website
View attachment 377699

This corresponds to what is said about boots. So, its delamination of the uppee part of the leather. Basically its an ageing process I would say

 

[JuliaG]

So, we wanted to buy that anj, but with import fees the price would be too high. So now in search of a pre-owned anj or b-3 or alike, in good condition, barely worn.
Can anyone explain are there differences in uk and us sizes? Totally confused.

 

[JuliaG]

If anyone here wants to sell some shearling jacket size L, please, make your offerings)

 

[JuliaG]

Only Horween CXL gets stiff in the cold.

So better not to buy cxl for where the temperatures drop below 0 easily?

 

[Monitor]

So better not to buy cxl for where the temperatures drop below 0 easily?

Horween's Chromexel Horsehide; Not all Chrome tanned leather of course but yeah, many people do not consider this to be that big of a deal but there are some who find it annoying. I very recently sold a FQHH Aero Highwayman and the buyer immediately got rid of it for this very reason. He hated how stiff and uncomfortable the leather got in the cold.
It's definitely a thing with Horween's Horsehide and I've never wore any other jacket where cold would affect the leather in such a way.

 

[AeroFan_07]

So better not to buy cxl for where the temperatures drop below 0 easily?

I would recommend against this. It simply gets too stiff to be functional as a jacket in that weather.

 

[Aloysius]

So, we wanted to buy that anj, but with import fees the price would be too high. So now in search of a pre-owned anj or b-3 or alike, in good condition, barely worn.
Can anyone explain are there differences in uk and us sizes? Totally confused.

You can buy the equivalent jacket from Five Star. Even with import fees it should work out reasonably! But bear in mind that it can be difficult to do day-to-day actions while wearing a shearling jacket due to the weight and stiffness.

Both UK and US sizes correspond to the chest measurement of the wearer, in inches. So a 40 is for someone whose chest measures 40in/101cm, 42 is for 40in/106cm etc.

 

[JuliaG]

You can buy the equivalent jacket from Five Star. Even with import fees it should work out reasonably! But bear in mind that it can be difficult to do day-to-day actions while wearing a shearling jacket due to the weight and stiffness.

Both UK and US sizes correspond to the chest measurement of the wearer, in inches. So a 40 is for someone whose chest measures 40in/101cm, 42 is for 40in/106cm etc.

Thank you much for info!
Five stars too much risk. People change the templates to get these jackets fit them..

 

[MrProper]

Thank you much for info!
Five stars too much risk. People change the templates to get these jackets fit them..

This may be a misunderstanding.
I have all my jackets made to my measurements. Even those from other manufacturers.
If you ask around in the Vintage leather Jacket forum, you will find many who are happy with standard patterns. Plus, the shearling jackets have the pattern of original jackets.
Just because I have everything altered doesn't mean this will make everybody. I just don't have a standard figure and therefore don't have standard jackets.

 

[Aloysius]

Thank you much for info!
Five stars too much risk. People change the templates to get these jackets fit them..

This is true in some cases, however this is one of the military jackets that are patterned from the originals so it is a different situation. It will fit like the original sheepskin jacket.

 

[JuliaG]

This may be a misunderstanding.
I have all my jackets made to my measurements. Even those from other manufacturers.
If you ask around in the Vintage leather Jacket forum, you will find many who are happy with standard patterns. Plus, the shearling jackets have the pattern of original jackets.
Just because I have everything altered doesn't mean this will make everybody. I just don't have a standard figure and therefore don't have standard jackets.

No misunderstanding, I got what you had said.
But about standard jacket its valuable info. I remember you said though that the leather is a bit thinner than one should expect. Is that correct?

 

[JuliaG]

But would you say this is standard fit as well? https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/fivestar-leather-repro-of-type-b3-two-tone-sheepskin-jacket

 

[JuliaG]

Someone also mentioned that 5* jackets are short. And they indeed look short. How does it comply with standard fit? Lost.