Choosing the jacket

[Bfd70]

Here’s on in leather.
https://blackbearbrand.com/black-be...nblack-horsehide-n1-deck-jacket-made-to-order

However, the way they are cut allows for layering. I fit a thin puffer jacket under and am good to 20f

remember that many leathers stiffen in the cold due to the tanning process.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Thank you. I agree with you but the person wants a pilot leather jacket or at least a leather jacket. He is not interested in non-leather, such he already has...

My apologies. Your original post indicated nothing about leather for the jacket.

None of my leather jackets venture out below -10C. All are rather stiff and get much stiffer in the cold, they can work under a Parka or wool jacket for heat retention/wind resistance, but no leather jacket of any type works well in those condition, in my experance.

 

[Monitor]

Y2 is all but lightweight.

 

[MrProper]

but no leather jacket of any type works well in those condition, in my experance.

Normal leather jackets yes. But shearling works well at minus temperatures.

 

[Goel]

I'd go for a finished goatskin or cowhide flight jacket with shearling lining, like the old LL Bean flight jackets. It won't be light but won't be nearly as heavy as some chromexcel horsehide or whatever, while still being very durable and it won't harden in the cold (or at least mine hasn't). Johnson Leather has done something like this for me and it turned out great.

 

[JuliaG]

Here’s on in leather.
https://blackbearbrand.com/black-be...nblack-horsehide-n1-deck-jacket-made-to-order

However, the way they are cut allows for layering. I fit a thin puffer jacket under and am good to 20f

remember that many leathers stiffen in the cold due to the tanning process.

Then its not my choice(((( You see, he needs the jacket for his soul as we say in Russia. So it should be really comfortable without any strong necessity to layer etc. So, if the leather will get stiff, and we have up to <-20C (not always but can be), then, I guess, some B-3

The problem is that I wrote everywhere - Eastman, Aero, Y2, etc, but they all seem not to hurry to reply.. In another thread a guy told me, with Y2 it took him up to 5 days to wait for a reply, despite he was writing in Japanese!! Thats not a good thing when you are planning a custom order for not little money(((((

Or maybe the mouton Y2 jackets will be not so stiff in winter?? What do you think?

 

[JuliaG]

I'd go for a finished goatskin or cowhide flight jacket with shearling lining, like the old LL Bean flight jackets. It won't be light but won't be nearly as heavy as some chromexcel horsehide or whatever, while still being very durable and it won't harden in the cold (or at least mine hasn't). Johnson Leather has done something like this for me and it turned out great.

Then the question is which hide types get stiff in cold and which - dont?

 

[JuliaG]

Y2 is all but lightweight.

Are they heavy?

 

[Monitor]

Are they heavy?

Y'2 is working in 1.2 - 1.5 mm horsehide or 1.5+ mm deerskin. That's considered heavyweight hide by any definition. It's Lost Worlds grade hide.

 

[MrProper]

Then its not my choice(((( You see, he needs the jacket for his soul as we say in Russia. So it should be really comfortable without any strong necessity to layer etc. So, if the leather will get stiff, and we have up to <-20C (not always but can be), then, I guess, some B-3

The problem is that I wrote everywhere - Eastman, Aero, Y2, etc, but they all seem not to hurry to reply.. In another thread a guy told me, with Y2 it took him up to 5 days to wait for a reply, despite he was writing in Japanese!! Thats not a good thing when you are planning a custom order for not little money(((((

Or maybe the mouton Y2 jackets will be not so stiff in winter?? What do you think?

if you want it fast and warm, you only have to buy used or 5*

 

[Monitor]

Then the question is which hide types get stiff in cold and which - dont?

Only Horween CXL gets stiff in the cold. Regular leather doesn't. Most leather won't. It's not a factor to be considered at all. Don't worry about it.

Sheepskin is best for the winter. Why not just grab one off the rack Eastman or something of Aero's sale page? They always got some great sheepskin pieces.

https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=salerv

 

[Will Zach]

I like @MrProper advice. If you're based in Russia, you have serious winters there, and a new Five Star shearling jacket might be the way to go at a very attractive price.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Regarding responses. Bear in mind with the majority of jackets (leathers) discussed here that:

• Makers are loaceted all over the globe
• Most of these are specialty shops
• Most have very full order boards & work delays with lockdowns
• Most are just not in a big hurry / have limited staff / priority to phone calls etc.
• Ebay/Grailled/ESTY may be a better choice to try something out - then "order" the proper item and wait for it.
• My last two orders out of Aero took 12 months, then 8 months to complete - such is life in a Covid & post-Covid world.

 

[JuliaG]

Y'2 is working in 1.2 - 1.5 mm horsehide or 1.5+ mm deerskin. That's considered heavyweight hide by any definition. It's Lost Worlds grade hide.

Thank you for info. They offer however anj-4 in mouton...How warm is this type of jacket? On the photos it looks warmer than B-6.

if you want it fast and warm, you only have to buy used or 5*
View attachment 376895 View attachment 376896

Fast - no. Time is not limited. But if you pay big money and then wait for reply for a week, that will be distressing that person for whom the jacket is intended ( talking now about high price level).

Only Horween CXL gets stiff in the cold. Regular leather doesn't. Most leather won't. It's not a factor to be considered at all. Don't worry about it.

Sheepskin is best for the winter. Why not just grab one off the rack Eastman or something of Aero's sale page? They always got some great sheepskin pieces.

https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=salerv

Thank you for info about stiffness!
As for Aero, I wrote everywhere - to Aero, to Eastman etc etc and so far only Thurston bros replied... I cannot just grab because there are details I need clarify and also I need help with sizing.

And yes, the jacket should be smth outstanding, see, like a custom made with horse panels attached to bag friction areas)

 

[MrProper]

Thank you for info. They offer however anj-4 in mouton...How warm is this type of jacket? On the photos it looks warmer than B-6.



Fast - no. Time is not limited. But if you pay big money and then wait for reply for a week, that will be distressing that person for whom the jacket is intended ( talking now about high price level).



Thank you for info about stiffness!
As for Aero, I wrote everywhere - to Aero, to Eastman etc etc and so far only Thurston bros replied... I cannot just grab because there are details I need clarify and also I need help with sizing.

And yes, the jacket should be smth outstanding, see, like a custom made with horse panels attached to bag friction areas)

for Aero it is best to email Holly directly: Holly@aeroleatherclothing.com
Or Chloe: chloe@aeroleatherclothing.com

 

[Monitor]

Thank you for info. They offer however anj-4 in mouton...How warm is this type of jacket? On the photos it looks warmer than B-6.

Both are just about equally warm - or can be equally warm, if custom made. While it somewhat depends how short the hair is, all shearling of standard thickness is pretty much the same when it comes to warmth. Avoid falling into the rabbit hole of excessive research. It leads only to misery.

Thank you for info about stiffness!
As for Aero, I wrote everywhere - to Aero, to Eastman etc etc and so far only Thurston bros replied... I cannot just grab because there are details I need clarify and also I need help with sizing.

That's odd. They usually reply quickly. There's no need to go through Thurston Bros. if you're not in the USA, though.

Aero has good sheepskin. Eastman too. Best I've handled is by Toys McCoy and Real McCoy. But that stuff costs... a lot.

https://therealmccoys.com/collectio...-b-6-real-mccoy-mfg-co?variant=36714099572897

https://therealmccoys.com/collectio...-f-irvin-flight-jacket?variant=34883792765089

[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

 

[JuliaG]

for Aero it is best to email Holly directly: Holly@aeroleatherclothing.com
Or Chloe: chloe@aeroleatherclothing.com

Wow, thank you so much! Will get in touch with them!

 

[JuliaG]

Both are just about equally warm - or can be equally warm, if custom made. While it somewhat depends how short the hair is, all shearling of standard thickness is pretty much the same when it comes to warmth. Avoid falling into the rabbit hole of excessive research. It leads only to misery.

I have a reputation of a very scrupulous person, so I cant fail to correspond))).

That's odd. They usually reply quickly. There's no need to go through Thurston Bros. if you're not in the USA, though.

Thank you again! Thurston Bros, cancel.

Aero has good sheepskin. Eastman too. Best I've handled is by Toys McCoy and Real McCoy. But that stuff costs... a lot.

https://therealmccoys.com/collectio...-b-6-real-mccoy-mfg-co?variant=36714099572897

https://therealmccoys.com/collectio...-f-irvin-flight-jacket?variant=34883792765089

But does the quality of the staff corresponds to price?

 

[Leigh H]

I’d say N1 jacket or a thick Pea Coat that can handle the cold wind.

https://www.americanclassicslondon.com/products/buzz-rickson-usn-pea-coat

Or a donkey jacket with the leather protected shoulders
https://www.lewisleathers.com/donkey-jacket.html

 

[JuliaG]

for Aero it is best to email Holly directly: Holly@aeroleatherclothing.com
Or Chloe: chloe@aeroleatherclothing.com

Wrote directly. From one came out-of-office auto-reply, from the other nothing so far. Will wait.
BTW, Thurston says Aero does not allow any modifications to their military jackets but on the Aero page they offer different customisations, like thicker lining, zipper choice, etc..