Choosing the jacket

[JuliaG]

Hello,

Would you, please, help me.
A man needs a winter jacket that has to comply with following characteristics:
1) warm
2) not too heavy (lightweight as far as it is possible)
3) durable and abrasion resistant. He carries a leather bag/suitcase, that is sometimes very heavy, on a cross-body belt. So main friction areas would be the shoulders, the back, where the bag rubs against the body, and cross-body front sections.
4) At the same time the leather shouldnt be too stiff or restricting, but more of a soft and comfortable fit.

Maybe somebody has experience with ordering some special protective panels of the tough leather for the places where friction applied?

Ive read this forum, I saw people discussing y'2 (have written to them now), fivestars (have written there too). Also checked Thedy, Noble, Cockpit, Top Gun, Eastman, Aero leathers. Eastman is very slow to reply, as someone said, and Id want good customer service to order the jacket from abroad, esp if it is made to order. But main thing is I am not sure whether these war jackets would suit a person for comfortably using them in the city or should I better opt for some more casual brands (and then which?)...

Looking forward to your reply. Thank you in advance!

Regards,
Julia

 

[JuliaG]

And about the price. The person agrees to pay more IF this price fully corresponds to quality. But, of course, prefers to pay less if the quality is still good. The worst thing is to buy an expensive jacket which wouldnt fit or would have problems.

 

[Marc mndt]

I'd go for Noble House's A-2, with horsehide front panel (for strength), lambskin back panel (nice and soft) and shearling lining (for warmth).

 

[Seank]

Durable and abrasion resistant but not to heavy….that’s a tall order.

Perhaps A veg tanned Thedi leather with a removable collar and lining.something like this?

I have this jacket in veg tanned Buffalo and with the removable liner and collar it is very versatile. Warm when you need it, and light when you don’t. I have the veg tanned Buffalo which may be to heavy for your needs but you could maybe use a goatskin which would lighten it up and stay very durable and abrasion resistant.

 

[JuliaG]

I'd go for Noble House's A-2, with horsehide front panel (for strength), lambskin back panel (nice and soft) and shearling lining (for warmth).

I'd go for Noble House's A-2, with horsehide front panel (for strength), lambskin back panel (nice and soft) and shearling lining (for warmth).

Thanks for your option! The back and shoulders panels are badly needed. Plus , we are in Russia. This could get really cold here smtms so I didnt consider A-2. More B-6, ANJ-4, D-1, B-3

 

[JuliaG]

Durable and abrasion resistant but not to heavy….that’s a tall order.

It is! And it should be smth extraordinary, so smth unusual.

I have this jacket in veg tanned Buffalo and with the removable liner and collar it is very versatile. Warm when you need it, and light when you don’t. I have the veg tanned Buffalo which may be to heavy for your needs but you could maybe use a goatskin which would lighten it up and stay very durable and abrasion resistant.

Thanks, but he prefers vertical zipper and smth warmer as we are in Russia. Regarding goatskin, Im afraid it is too cold for our climate. At least the guy told me so, he owned the goat jacket before...

 

[JuliaG]

What do you think about Y-2 and Fivestar?
I first was very impressed with Y'2 ANJ-4 made of HH but then I saw someone on this forum warning not to ever buy it as you basically wouldnt be able to move in it, so stiff it is, as he said...

 

[Bfd70]

Best option is don’t go leather. Warm, but not too heavy, not too stiff, but abrasion resistant could only come from one hide.

 

[Bfd70]

Joking aside, it sounds like you're describing a N-1. Plenty of info on here about them. LOVE mine.

 

[JuliaG]

Joking aside, it sounds like you're describing a N-1. Plenty of info on here about them. LOVE mine.

Thanks so much! Will dig into it!

 

[JuliaG]

BTW, which company do you consider best for ordering custom made jackets?

 

[Goel]

The weight of the leather doesn't affect it's warmth, only what it's lined with. Goatskin with shearling or wool would be plenty warm, durable and soft.

 

[MrProper]

With these requirements, I would have a shearling jacket made and have the most stressed areas reinforced with goat or cow.

 

[Bfd70]

BTW, which company do you consider best for ordering custom made jackets?

Just post a generic list of all jacket makers for your answer. Everyone has their own opinion.

 

[MrProper]

Just post a generic list of all jacket makers for your answer. Everyone has their own opinion.

Here you can certainly still question what exactly is meant by custom made. Standard model according to own dimensions or own design/modified details of a standard model according to own dimensions?

 

[Monitor]

Anything goatskin should do fine. Note that, however, goatskin isn't lightweight as in lambskin lightweight. It's still a hefty hide but one that's very soft and easy to wear.

 

[JuliaG]

Here you can certainly still question what exactly is meant by custom made. Standard model according to own dimensions or own design/modified details of a standard model according to own dimensions?

I meant modified size and added features to a standard model.
As for brands, I meant, for ex, Thorston bros, Y'2, Five*

 

[AeroFan_07]

For this set of requirements, I would skip leather as a jacket type altogether.

Instead I would have you consider the offerings of Carhartt, good, long lasting, abrasion resistant, not overally heavy, can still look "decent" depending upon style, many different offerings, and avaliable as a very warm jacket/coat to handle the harsh extremes of Russia. Prices well under $200 USD and built to last. I own several Carhartt jackets & coats.

Perhaps something like this? https://www.carhartt.com/product/10...ed-fit-washed-duck-insulated-traditional-coat

Full selection here: https://www.carhartt.com/c/men-outerwear

Filson is another optipon, and thier traditonal wool cruiser parkas are very durable. Please note (as I own one myself) that they have No Wind Resistance built-in. Wind cuts right through them. They also have other models that are wind/water resistant, but the quality and general specifications may not be any better than Carhartt and will be more expensive.

https://www.filson.com/outerwear.html

Finally, look at Duluth Trading. Similar to Carhartt, a few different styles, but all pretty decent products overall, pricing will be around the same or just above Carhartt, but less overall than Filson. I have one lined button up shirt/jacket by them and have tried on several of thier coats in the past. They have a very nice jeans selection as an aside.

https://www.duluthtrading.com/men/outerwear/jackets-and-coats/

 

[JuliaG]

For this set of requirements, I would skip leather as a jacket type altogether.

Thank you. I agree with you but the person wants a pilot leather jacket or at least a leather jacket. He is not interested in non-leather, such he already has...

 

[JuliaG]

Joking aside, it sounds like you're describing a N-1. Plenty of info on here about them. LOVE mine.

Thank you so much for this info!! TheN-1 is awsome! It could well be an option. The only thing, I doubt it woukd be sufficient for Russian winter. Only if I manage to get it modified with more insulation. Im asking Y'2 about this now, Im in love with their leathers..