Chest size vs Jacket size?

[SunRecords54]

Hello all. Trying to determine which leather motorcycle jacket size to get if my chest measures about a 37. Do I get a 38 or a 40? Wanting to get a true vintage ‘50s made leather motorcycle jacket and want to have the fit that they had back then as well. Any suggestions on what the pit to pit measurement should be for the jacket? What size should I be looking for? Thanks so much!!!

 

[Peacoat]

Sam Phillips once told me that in measuring your chest size there should be no "about." Assuming your chest size is 37" that means you are a "tweener." Too big for a size 36 jacket and a little small for a size 38 jacket, But I think a 38 should fit you better than a size 40, which might be a little large on you. If you want to layer under the jacket, a 40 might be your best bet.

 

[SunRecords54]

How much extra room should there be in the back? I’ve got some folds and flow on the back wearing a jacket I can’t determine if it’s too big or just right. The arm width is a bit wide and not as tight as I feel they should be around my arms but again not sure how the proper fit for the arm width is supposed to be either exactly.

Sam Phillips once told me that in measuring your chest size there should be no "about." Assuming your chest size is 37" that means you are a "tweener." Too big for a size 36 jacket and a little small for a size 38 jacket, But I think a 38 should fit you better than a size 40, which might be a little large on you. If you want to layer under the jacket, a 40 might be your best bet.

 

[Peacoat]

How much extra room should there be in the back? I’ve got some folds and flow on the back wearing a jacket I can’t determine if it’s too big or just right.

If you ride a motorcycle, you will want a little extra room in the back. If you ride a crotch rocket, you will want even more room. If it is comfortable to ride in, it is probably about right.

Only way we can know if it is too much is if you post a picture or two.

 

[SunRecords54]

If you ride a motorcycle, you will want a little extra room in the back. If you ride a crotch rocket, you will want even more room. If it is comfortable to ride in, it is probably about right.

Only way we can know if it is too much is if you post a picture or two.

Here are some fit pictures

 

[SunRecords54]

Having serious issues uploading images for some reason on here sorry :/

 

[TartuWolf]

One thing to consider is the back design. Does the model have shoulder gussets? Full bi-swing back?
That will impact how much freedom of movement do you have, especially on a moto.

In general I've found this rule on TFL and use it myself : (chest size + 2-3") / 2 = jacket pit-to-pit.
For me that means 36" chest + 3" = 39" / 2 = 19.5". So jackets with ~19.5" pit-to-pit should work pretty well for me. With bi-swing back can go lower down to 19", with plain back can go up to something like 20".

 

[navetsea]

about a fist gap, if the jacket has inner pocket or there is something on your shirt's pocket you need to reach it should be possible to slide in your hand and making a fist grabbing the item out with the jacket half zipped, in number I think about 10 cm (4") more from my chest size.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Skinny, Regular, Relaxed, which look are you going after?

And what brand/jacket are you looking at?

 

[SunRecords54]

Skinny, Regular, Relaxed, which look are you going after?
View attachment 548662

And what brand/jacket are you looking at?

Looking for a regular fit. Doesn’t matter the brand. Just has to be an authentic true vintage one from the ‘50s in a perfecto type style.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Not knowing your size/height/weight and not being able to see any photos seriously limits people's ability to assist. Need a little more than just chest size. Arm length is also quite important as well as waist.

If using a Windows-based PC, use your Windows Accessories "snipping tool" to crop down your photos to a more internet-friendly size

For example, I am 6' 1" tall, 195 lbs and wear size 36 waist jeans. This puts me right around a "44L" suit coat, and I typically take a 16.5/34-35 dress shirt.

I find for a layering piece, a 46L jacket is excellent in nearly any motorcycle-intent style. For a closer fitting, slim-fit I can squeeze into most "42's" but in the instance of an Aero Board racer, I am easily a 46 as they are so slim of design.

You being around a 37 chest are a great size to check out vintage pieces, I am not. I am too tall and often just to large for most of them. @dudewuttheheck may be a great resource as I believe he is around your size.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Looking for a regular fit. Doesn’t matter the brand. Just has to be an authentic true vintage one from the ‘50s in a perfecto type style.

Try on both 38 and 40 Perfecto 613/618 first, find out which one you like better. And if you want to go premium there is also the Leon no star and the Durable repro.

I am in between size like you, 41 chest, I usually take size 40 in modern North American sizing, but vintage sizing is trickier, I would have to try them on to know for sure.

My Schott 618HH, size 42. This is the most current fit, 25" length and straight torso. This one feels a bit awkward, I have trouble using the hand warmer pockets and that usually means the jacket is on the smaller side. The current fit is also more of the 70s one imo. It also bugs me that the belt isn't long enough to get tucked into the loop.

My Schott 613US, Size 44, 24" length. This could be the USA version of 613S/SH I am not sure as I don't have that jacket, and the USA version looks to be the current 25" length. This pattern is based on the 60s Schott, not the 50s. This size 44 fits comfortable on me, and I can easily use the hand warmer pockets. It's a keeper for me for sure.

My Toys Mccoy Durable Repro, not quite screen accurate as the screen one has single underarm football but very close, and there could have been more than one movie jackets or not I don't know. I love this jacket. It's a fan copy of the movie jacket Brando wore in the Wild One. This one is a size 42.

There is also the Fine Creek Leon No Star. It's a jacket I've been looking at for ages but haven't found one to pull the trigger on. I think I will need a size 44 based on my Schott fits. And I believe it is the repro of this 50s Schott.

Answering your question gave me an opportunity to try all my "Wild One" jackets in one setting. And I have to say...

D U R A B L E

If you can find a vintage one that is in good condition and fits, go for that. D U R A B L E!!! And tuck in your coin pocket like Johnny.

 

[navetsea]

I like how 618 follow the s curve on the lumbar area with its kidney panel, but my god the front part of the jacket is a mess, like you said the tip of the belt too short, the buckle is off the center unless you wear it by the last hole? it makes you look a lot fuller with muffin top and how far the belt from the hem producing horrible looking tutu hem flare, why don't they make a jacket with half hidden full belt instead of sewing the front belt to the side seam then leave an open tunnel on the side seam and connect the base of the belt strap to each other with elastic band, so the belt can be worn centered regardless of wearer's waist , and will hang and dangling shorter when not in use because of the elastic and can be totally pulled off for more minimalist look so there is no need for fine creek chop, also so people can use their own full belt too or they can sell a full belt as accs, maybe sell a full belt or half elasticized belt with non scratching plastic buckle for riders, or belt with different material and color to mix and match with the jacket, damn I'm giving away business idea here.

 

[Aloysius]

I like how 618 follow the s curve on the lumbar area with its kidney panel, but my god the front part of the jacket is a mess, like you said the tip of the belt too short, the buckle is off the center unless you wear it by the last hole? it makes you look a lot fuller with muffin top and how far the belt from the hem producing horrible looking tutu hem flare, why don't they make a jacket with half hidden full belt instead of sewing the front belt to the side seam then leave an open tunnel on the side seam and connect the base of the belt strap to each other with elastic band, so the belt can be worn centered regardless of wearer's waist , and will hang and dangling shorter when not in use because of the elastic and can be totally pulled off for more minimalist look so there is no need for fine creek chop, also so people can use their own full belt too or they can sell a full belt as accs, maybe sell a full belt or half elasticized belt with non scratching plastic buckle for riders, or belt with different material and color to mix and match with the jacket, damn I'm giving away business idea here.

They used to sell both a full detachable belt model (both standard Perfecto style and CHP style) and attached half belt model. I think the lumbar shape and the front shape on the new 613/618/118 are directly linked. I agree that it doesn't look as good, but it does have great range of movement. In fact I have a vintage 60s separate belt from them in unused condition.


@Canuck Panda if you flatten your 618HH out, you'll see that it's 23" PTP, as far as your diagram goes! It does seem deceptively smaller; even some stores that sell it get it wrong.