Chapal brand jackets, anyone?

[Xenophon]

Is anyone familiar with the French brand Chapal? Stumbled on their site and they have some jackets that look VERY good to me as far as quality / finish are concerned. Note that authenticity is only of minor importance to me, don't know where they stand on that.

Expensive but the price gets you a made to measure jacket if you step in their Paris showroom (and for the price the coffee served better be good + they can throw in some Pierre Hermé macaroons to go with that, served by the model sporting their A1 in the pic I'll post below).

This is their site, in french and switching to english only gets me a pdf-download but if you select 'collections' (duh), then 'blouson' or 'veste' you'll see some of their stuff. www.chapal.fr

I was actually searching the net because I'm looking for a sheep lined waistcoat and -no offence- their version of a C3 looks a cut above what I see on the Aero site for instance.

As I said, I don't know where they are on authenticity but the following blurb with their A2 seems encouraging (translation mine): 'Chapal offer this jacket in its original style and comfort, meaning only suitable for particularly slender built persons such as the '40's pilots could be and who are in search of a look rather than comfort'. Well, brutally honest I'd say.

Anyway, Paris is a lot easier for me to reach than Galashiels and I've reslved that the next jacket, whatever the model, has to be a custom fit, I want to take the sizing uncertainty out of the equation.

Some pics:



Looking for some first hand experience with them and of course, any feedback is always welcome!

 

[Jeff M]

I purchased a used Chapal some time back from a forum member over at the VLJ forum for a very reasonable price.
It's basically an ANJ3 design with a thin quilted lining. (Chapal lists it as a G1 with a removable mouton collar....this was lost before I purchased it.) I believe it is made from steer hide rather than goat.
It's a great jacket. Very well made, wonderful leather, very comfortable.
It's my "grab going out the door when it's a bit chilly" jacket.
I like their A1 design. If they were more reasonably priced I'd own one.
FWIW I understand from folks who are into the vintage A1 design that theirs is closer to "authentic" than anything else out there.....with the bottom knits being wider than the knits at the collar.

 

[Xenophon]

I called them up yesterday, very friendly, don't know if the lady I talked to speaks English (French being my second language). Strangely enough -to me- the jacket that appeals most to me going by the pictures on their site is the A1.

They have a couple of options:

- Either one of their off the rack sizes is a perfect fit; I discussed this at length, gave my measurements and they're 95% sure that the trim fit version of their medium sized jacket will be perfect for me. If that works out then it's basically a matter of double checking by fitting one in their Paris showroom (given a week's notice they can arrange to have the colours that you'd like to try there) and if that's fine it's just a matter of swiping a card and walking out with the jacket. Else they order it and it gets delivered in about 3 weeks (they make them in France, apparently it's a small company with 10 people producing all their leather ware ). They offer each size in a trim fit version as well as in a more relaxed fit, btw.

- Should you fall between 2 sizes or the fit is not 100% to your liking one of their tailors measures you up and they do a total custom job. If by any chance they already have a pattern in just that size there's no surcharge, if not it costs 20% extra.

Pricing is what it is: high (2500 EUR for the A1) but fortunately if I purchase I can reclaim about 20% VAT when taking it out of Europe (proof of residence in India comes in handy for once). That makes it more palatable. Anyway, I think i'll make an appointment for my end of the year visit to Europe. Even if I decide not to purchase my wife and I will certainly be able to enjoy a weekend in Paris.

Deciding about the colour will be a different matter, black is out and so is their brown and white version. They also offer a multicolour version but I'm not going there, a bit too wild & crazy even for me. So it'll be between the orange (pictured above) and either the blue, yellow or the British green (which looks rather grey on my monitor).

Anyway, I'll only go check them out at the end of the year so time enough to reflect if this will be the jacket to end all jackets.

This is supposed to be British green although to me it looks grey:



Here's their blue, note the detail on the collar with the button matching the jacket color, nice touch I think.



And then finally the yellow. Not sure if I like the combo with the black hem/collar, feel they could've made a better selection there:



All images property of Chapal, of course. Very curious to see them live and try them on.

 

[bretron]

For 2500 EUR you should be able to get just about the most amazing leather jacket on earth.

Cool as hell? Yes. Better options for that much scratch? Hellz yeah! I say get a Kelso or Diamond Dave equivelant A1, plus a Good Wear A2!!!

 

[Xenophon]

For 2500 EUR you should be able to get just about the most amazing leather jacket on earth.

Cool as hell? Yes. Better options for that much scratch? Hellz yeah! I say get a Kelso or Diamond Dave equivelant A1, plus a Good Wear A2!!!

And I guess they offer those in any colour I want as long as it's brown? I understand your point of view but keep in mind that authenticity is not a factor for me; I want something that looks superlatively good and is qualitatively top notch...but no brown nor black. I went with the A1 because this A1 looks good, not because I have some attachment to the era or model. Different people, different perspectives.

One of the main things here is that I absolutely, imperatively want to fit and see it with my own eyes before purchasing and a plane ticket to Belgium (home country though I've been working as an expat for >10 years now) via Paris is a hell of a lot more convenient not to mention shorter than going the other way via the US.

It's expensive but trust me, nothing like absolutely top tier expensive; I've seen 10k EUR jackets although I must say that imo those who purchase them are up to their eyebrows in the swamp of diminishing returns (which is all irrelevant if the bank balance is high enough).

 

[John Lever]

I bought one of their B-3's before Eurofication (?) It only cost me £350 which was comparable to ELC prices at the time. They suddenly went up in price by about 40% and have been climbing to silly money ever since. Though they invented waterproof leather and supplied the USAAF from their Brooklyn tannery during WW2 there are better jackets for less money. Their repros are almost like someone saw an original a very long time ago and has been making them as a distant memory. I understand they make jackets for Paris fashion designers so enough said....

 

[Sloan1874]

I saw your B-2 at Aero yesterday, John, that's an amazing jacket! (sorry, this is off-topic, but had to be said)

 

[andyfalzon]

Chapal is also a tannery (or to put it better it is firstly a tannery). This means that leathers cost to them MUCH less than what they cost to ordinary jacket makers.

 

[Xenophon]

Chapal is also a tannery (or to put it better it is firstly a tannery). This means that leathers cost to them MUCH less than what they cost to ordinary jacket makers.

That's capitalism. And irrelevant to me, it's not my business to do their accounts. If they manage to realise a huge margin, more power to them. What matters is the product (aesthetics and quality as I said, not authenticity for me) and then it's up to whomever wants to purchase to decide is it's worth the asking price. Anyway, if they're also a tannery I guess the leather quality should not be an issue.

If the pictures are indicative of reality then that settles it for me. But I want to see it with my own eyes and sizing needs to be absolutely perfect, not merely 'good enough'.

 

[Worf]

I like their take on the A-1 but I find the bottom knits just a tad too long, a third again as long as the knits on my GoodWear A-1 that I wore to work this morning. Sides, I'm sure they don't make em in my size so I've no quibble with thier priciing.

Worf

 

[John Lever]

I saw your B-2 at Aero yesterday, John, that's an amazing jacket! (sorry, this is off-topic, but had to be said)

Thanks,that's the one I got from Japan, the early version made from very heavy hh and the buckled collar and plain
pocket. It's the best B-2 I have owned so far and I prefer it to my Few jacket. I hope the zip can be replaced. Why oh why do they glue them in ?????

 

[John Lever]

The B-3 I bought had veg. tanned sheep leather (cape ?) on the arms rather than hh. I have heard of goatskin trim but never sheep leather. If Grand Prix Racewear still exists you might be able to see the jackets there.

 

[ButteMT61]

Glad to hear it's getting some back time Worf. I miss that jacket…but it has a good home.
I thought you'd be excited over the green "A-1" here. But I get the knits too long point as well.

I like their take on the A-1 but I find the bottom knits just a tad too long, a third again as long as the knits on my GoodWear A-1 that I wore to work this morning. Sides, I'm sure they don't make em in my size so I've no quibble with thier priciing.

Worf

 

[handymike]

I've admired their Eagle Moto Jacket for a couple years now

http://www.benchandloom.com/shop/jackets-coats/74

 

[John Lever]

Not worth it,buy an Aero or something similar.

 

[handymike]

The price is way steep- yes, which is why I've admired it instead of purchased it!

 

[Xenophon]

Not worth it,buy an Aero or something similar.

Not worth it...to you. Your argumentation seems solely based on a price which you perceive as too high. But I've yet to hear anything indicating that there would be problems with quality/service etc. The latter would be objective arguments. Price is subjective and an individual decision, which is why some people drive a Bugatti and others an Opel while both cars will presumably get you from A to B.

For me -if what I see on the site checks out when I pay them a visit come december- the premium I'll pay is worth it considering the fact that in their design and finish I see something that e.g. Aero doesn't offer me, that wait times are minimal if there are any at all and that there will be no uncertainty about the jacket being the right size or not, something I already got burned with in the past.

I'm not kicking Aero here, btw, currently still have a Shackleton and a Maxwell that are underway and generally I'm happy with them. But neither am I a fanboy who's blind to a couple of drawbacks inherent with ordering from them or for that matter from most online producers and which have to do mostly with waiting and sizing uncertainty. I've come to the conclusion that I'd rather pay a 1500 EUR premium than risk ending up stuck with a jacket that doesn't fit me like I want it and that I subsequently have to unload at a loss with all the hassles that come with it, owing to the fact that due to my job I'm flitting around between two locations that are 6800 km apart.

 

[John Lever]

It must be The Bull hide that makes it so expensive.. I have owned them and seen them in the flesh and I repeat that they are no better or worse than Aero or Eastman Real McCoys or Goodwear. Chapal work closely with the Paris fashion houses and have a shop on the Champs Elysees. That is where the price comes from.
Michael Schumacher wears Chapel jackets.

 

[Edward]

I've admired their Eagle Moto Jacket for a couple years now

http://www.benchandloom.com/shop/jackets-coats/74

Gorgeous jacket. I assume that price includes the motorcycle to go with it? Jinkies, it better had...

Not worth it...to you. Your argumentation seems solely based on a price which you perceive as too high. But I've yet to hear anything indicating that there would be problems with quality/service etc. The latter would be objective arguments. Price is subjective and an individual decision, which is why some people drive a Bugatti and others an Opel while both cars will presumably get you from A to B.

More like Daimler vs Jaguar in this case, but certainly "better" is broadly subjective, and can be based on other issues than the quality of the jacket itself, such as wait time, opportunity to try before buying, and so on.

I dread to think what it must cost to maintain a storefront on the Champs Elysee. No wonder they're two fortunes!

 

[Dr H]

FWIW I understand from folks who are into the vintage A1 design that theirs is closer to "authentic" than anything else out there.....with the bottom knits being wider than the knits at the collar.

Not in my book Jeff - the Chapal pattern doesn't look that close to me (particularly the proportions of the waist and collar knits).
IMHO, the Bill Kelso A-1 that I posted elsewhere is streets ahead in terms of accuracy of pattern and at a much lower price.