Can a zip be replaced on a RM J-100 using the original holes?

[redsox78]

Hi,

Long time lurker...but never had anything as nice as you lot on here. Maybe I have a chance though ...

Does anyone know if it’s possible to replace a zip on a RM J-100 without adding new stitch holes that would be visible? I’m asking because I have been offered one from a work colleague in basically as new condition, for less than half price (!) but the first CM or so of the pin side zip tape has come out of the stitching. The zip is fine, but the zipper tape has come away from the jacket (there are no loose or damaged stitches; the zip tape has just come away / come out of the first cm inch of stitches).

Looking closely it seems like the stitches on the outside of the jacket don’t hold the zip (or don’t on their own) and there are stitches inside the front seam that hold the zip.

I’m only asking here because I don’t have long to decide on the jacket (he’s giving me a day to think about it) and it’s at ally useable as it is; the zips up fine as it is, at some point it will get worse I suppose, but no-one would notice while it’s worn now. At the same time while people have spoken of having zips replaced on well-made leather jackets, it’s not clear if that causes new stitch holes or not?

Even if it cost another 100-200 to fix the zip...it would still be a bargain. So, I’m tempted. But I don’t know enough about clothing manufacture - especially high end leather jackets - to know if it’s fixable.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[ProteinNerd]

Yes but it depends on the skill of the person doing it.

 

[redsox78]

Yes but it depends on the skill of the person doing it.

That’s what I figured. I was actually looking at a different jacket on Aero’s site, so if I bought both, I was going to see if Aero would repair it. I’m in the UK, so figured whilst I might have a wait, Aero are probably the best (I’m happy to pay Aero given their skill).

 

[navetsea]

if you say only 1 cm worth of length how many stitches there might be, 5 or 6? ... do it by hand yourself through the original holes ?

 

[Monitor]

Yeah, seems like you can get this fixed yourself, by hand. I've done this few dozen times on my jackets.

Or if you take the jacket to a tailor, such repair shouldn't cost you more than $10-$20 USD tops. But just make sure to insist they only repair the part that's come undone because otherwise they'll start whining how replacing the entire zipper would be the best thing to do and from the sound of it, there's really no need for that at the moment.

Entire zipper replacement is possible but it's risky business as first it needs to be done right, by someone who's very skilled like PN said and second, you obviously need the right zipper for this jacket and that's not easily obtainable.

But to answer your initial question; sadly, no - replacement of the main zipper can only be done with a sewing machine so it is virtually impossible for a tailor to go through (all of) the original holes. They might get some, or most if done properly but there's always gonna be some that they missed.

Tho, maybe they've invented some kind of sewing machines with sensors and cameras and computers and stuff that automatically targets the existing hole and won't punch thru otherwise? XD

 

[GHT]

Yes but it depends on the skill of the person doing it.

Agreed, my wife recently replaced a damaged zipper in our friend's A2, but you have to know what you are doing. Navetsea's advice is worth a try and you are hardly likely to cause any damage. The reason original sewing holes don't disappear is because machine sewn leather is done with a needle called a spearpoint. The needle leaves the tiniest cross in the leather with each stitch, this not only prevents the hole from tearing it makes it far easier for the needle to penetrate the leather.

I've just spoken to my missus about the A2 zip replacement and about your problem. She said good luck if you do it by hand, meaning it takes some strength to do it. Knowing that she did the replacement on her machine I asked how. She said that she measured the holes and their distance apart, she then set her machine to sew the same distance, she then did a trial on a small swatch of leather, then laid the swatch alongside the existing holes. It was a perfect match.

She said that the only difficulty was getting the first holes right, with her machine set a the same distance as the holes it was just a case of slowly, slowly. She actually got through three needles in the process. Shame I didn't think of photographing her work. I'm just curious, why was a 24 hour deadline set?

I've found a picture of the jacket, but only after her work was done, sorry.

 

[handymike]

Didn't we have a thread about this 6 months ago?
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...
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found it.....
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...e-thread-behind-the-male-insertion-pin.86432/

 

[Woodyear]

A qualified tailor with the ability to work on leather can do it. I had my guy remove a windflap, which requires removing the stitching that goes through the zipper. He told me he would match the original holes on the outside but the backside, underneath where you don't see wouldn't match. This makes sense since you can only watch for the holes on the top and can't see what's going on underneath. I'm fine with that, really doesn't make any difference in the end and I was able to get rid of the annoying windflap.

 

[redsox78]

Didn't we have a thread about this 6 months ago?
...
...
...
found it.....
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...e-thread-behind-the-male-insertion-pin.86432/

Not quite, in that threat the material around the pin has worn. The jacket I am being offered is where the material around the pin is fine, but the tape has actually come away from the jacket. I'm still umming and ahhring about what to do

 

[robrinay]

If you search on the net for 'how to saddle stitch' and you are careful and patient you will be able to replace a zipper tape using that technique. You'll need two blunt leather needles and an awl of the correct thickness to prevent the holes being stretched Or new ones being made. There are lots of YouTube videos than show the technique. I would also recommend that you use 'wonder tape' - to position the zipper tape correctly and check that it sits correctly by zipping it up gently before stitching. Wonder tape is a double sided adhesive tape that won't gum up your needle when you stitch. Collins and Prym are two brands that make it. If you are very careful in placing the zipper tape accurately the holes should line up and your awl will find the correct way through hole to hole to guide your needles. Alternatively just use wonder tape to fix the zipper to the front panel and find each matching hole on the rear panel with your awl before stitching. As I said in the other thread if only one side of the zipper is damaged and you can get hold of a matching zipper then you only need to replace the damaged side. If this explanation sounds like gobbledegook then watch a saddle stitching video and read it again.

 

[robrinay]

If you are competent with a sewing machine then use wonder tape to position your zipper tape and operate the machine with your hand turning the flywheel slowly and an embroidery foot attached with the feed dogs lowered. This will enable you to find each hole with the needle. This technique will enable you to use the front holes but you'll probably miss lots of the rear holes.