Can a dried out leather sweat band be saved?

[Doc Glockster]

I can't tell you how many hats I've gotten off eBay that were in near mint condition, except that the sweat band had dried out to the point that it tore like paper.

I thought a generous application of leather conditioner was enough to save it, but my last hat purchased proved me wrong.

I know some people will say "just have a new sweatband made", but when you paid $15 plus shipping for an eBay hat it doesn't make sense to invest a lot in "saving" the sweat band.

Can a dried out sweat band be resurrected, or is it too late by then?

 

[Art Fawcett]

I'm sorry Doc, but the time has passed. Many guys will put a new sweatband in but save the logo of the old one to try to maintain some provenance.

 

[fedoracentric]

Once dryrot sets in, leather cannot be saved. Hardened leather is similarly irreversibly ruined.

 

[Doc Glockster]

Last time I found a ruined sweatband on a hat, I went back and put leather conditioner on all my other hats.

How often does that have to be done? Should I put some leather conditioner on a sweat band every six months or so? Or maybe after I've worn the hat and gotten it sweaty? Is it safe to put the leather conditioner on the sweat band and just put the hat back in storage indefinitely?

 

[jhe888]

Base your decision on not what you paid for the hat and shipping, but what a similar quality new hat would cost. If it would be a mediocre $30 hat new, I doubt I'd pay for a new sweatband. If it would cost $200 new, I would.

 

[Art Fawcett]

Normal is once a year Doc but I don't think there is a steadfast rule about it. If it's your favorite condition it twice a year as you will have worn it more. Once it's pliable it shouldn't matter much when you sweat in it.

 

[TheDane]

"Pliability" seems to be a keyword here. I recently read a paper from the Royal Danish Library on conservation of anique books. Their conservators have stopped using neatsfoot oil and other conditioners on leather sleeves. According to them, recent research suggest that such "conditioning" have no or negligible effect on the preservation/life-length of the leather. The potential negative effects on paper and other materials outweighs any small positive effects.

 

[fedoracentric]

"Pliability" seems to be a keyword here. I recently read a paper from the Royal Danish Library on conservation of anique books. Their conservators have stopped using neatsfoot oil and other conditioners on leather sleeves. According to them, recent research suggest that such "conditioning" have no or negligible effect on the preservation/life-length of the leather. The potential negative effects on paper and other materials outweighs any small positive effects.

Interesting point. Though "paper" and glue have no relevance to hats, I'd suggest that thread does. Too much neatsfoot or other oils is bad on the thread of sweatbands. Shoe and boot guys will tell you this, too.

 

[TheDane]

Yup, but 20-30 years ago it was considered "The Fountain of Life" among conservators. It is actually good for many things, but ...

 

[Doc Glockster]

So what is the best stuff to use?

 

[fedoracentric]

Me, I put neatsfoot oil on a sweatband if it seems a bit dry when I first buy it. I do it once and never again unless I am putting the hat in a naptha bath. If I am going to douse the hat in naptha I'll put a bit of mink oil or neatsfoot or whatever on it so that the naptha won't dry the leather out too badly. But if I get a hat new or a vintage one that seems in good shape, I do not treat the leather at all.

 

[TheDane]

I use some stuff I got from a conservator. The only thing I know is that it contains a little neatsfoot oil, some lanoline and beeswax. I use it rarely and sparingly, hoping it will keep leather between and just over stitches a little more flexible. I think, most reputed brands contain more or less the same ingredients. Containers and ads are probably the most important difference. Even the companies own appraisals sound the same: "Our product is fantastic, and the only one that works!"

 

[barrowjh]

I have been using Lexol, as recommended by others on TFL. There is no saving a dry-rotted sweatband, and for that matter, any sweatband that has seen its share of use. They are the wearing surface, and they wear out. So, that is something to take into account when bidding on ebay. Probably a $30 round trip to send one off for a sweatband (just talking shipping costs), so why not have it cleaned and blocked while it is there, and suddenly you are approaching $100 or more. So, any hat that looks like it is only worth $50, well, you are gambling and sometimes it becomes a bad bet.

I became selective, but not soon enuf, have more than I need now.

 

[Doc Glockster]

I use LEXOL leather wipes too, but how do they rate?

 

[alanfgag]

Sweatbands have varied over the decades but in general they are wafer thin compared to baseball gloves and heavy outerwear and not suited for application of conditioners. Some early sweatbands (like Stetson's "The Fray") are coated and embossed and wear like iron. Some, like those used in lightweight hats in the late 1930s early 1940s, seem to survive many decades with their softness and flexibility intact. I've had the worst loss with sweatbands from the 1950s, seeing some tear even though they appeared to be in good condition. Once they feel stiff they have likely finished their useful life.

 

[alanfgag]

One long time member questions the use of Lexol on something that you wear next to your skin. He recommended cosmetic shea butter. I have used this from time to time, applying with my fingers. It doesn't help more than anything else, but it does smell nice.

 

[gtdean48]

I can't use soap or detergent that has dyes or perfumes added but use Lexol wipes on my sweatbands for years with no problems. YRMV....

 

[TheDane]

One long time member questions the use of Lexol on something that you wear next to your skin

Wonder, if it's bad practice to let my forehead skin touch the leather after a fun night in town ... organic solvents and all [huh]

 

[Landman]

I have never found any way to save a dry rotted sweatband but have been using Pecards's Antique Leather dressing on all my vintage hats with sweatbands still in good shape. It has worked great and I have no complaints. I even put it on new sweatbands when I first get a hat. It does a great job of rejuvenating and preserving a vintage sweatband. On new real leather sweatbands, like those used by Akubra, it will soften the sweatband making it more pliable. It even seems to help the cheap composite leather sweatbands used by Stetson and Resistol. Below is a link to the product.

http://pecard.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Pecard&Category_Code=antique

Recently I tried something a little different that worked out great. I had purchased a used Stetson made sometime in the 1950's. The sweatband was still supple and in good shape but was dirty. I wanted to clean the sweatband before I applied Pecard's. I happened to have some baby wipes that I carry in my truck to clean my hands or face when I'm out in the field. The container said they were for sensitive skin and were alcohol free with Aloe Vera. I folded one up and went around the sweatband a few times and was amazed out how much dirt came off on to the wipe. I went around it a few more times with some clean ones and it looked brand new when I finished. It also was very supple even after it dried off. I think that is attributed to the Aloe Vera and no alcohol. I use them all the time now and have not seen any adverse effects on any of my hats. I definitely wouldn't try this with any wipes that have alcohol. Stick to the wipes made for baby's with sensitive skin.

 

[ebonysw45]

If your in Australia you could try RM Williams saddle dressing. I use it on all my leather, jackets boots and watch straps.