Buzz Rickson William Gibson MA-1 Flying Jacket, Tailored Cut sleeve fit?

[adriano_85]

Hi, everyone,

New to the forums and so I'm not entirely sure this type of query is acceptable but here goes...

I placed an order for one of these in a size 42 Long yesterday after vacillating between it and a 44 Long mainly due to concerns over sleeve length.

Per History Preservation Associates' product page, the total sleeve length for the 42 would be 35.5" and thus seemingly perfect for me as I wear a 35" sleeve elsewhere.

However, after continuing to scour the internet for photos of the jacket and looking at model heights/metrics and so forth, I'm wondering if perhaps I should really have gone up a size for the extra inch of sleeve. I think the look of having the cuffs fully stretched to just barely do the job might not be a good one - most seem to wear these with a little bit of a bunch at the hands apparently. Having said that, the 44 Long's chest dimensions are slightly bigger than I'd like given my chest circumference is 42" or thereabout.

Being that it's an international order I can already foresee a possible return for replacement as being a headache (taxes, shipping costs) and so I'm very eager to get this right before the jacket ships this Monday.

So, preamble over, does anyone who's around 6'1" tall and with a 35" or so sleeve happen to own one of these jackets in a size 42 Long? If so, could you please share how you've found the fit and drop of the sleeves in particular? A photo with it worn would be especially helpful.

Anyway, thank you to anyone that bothered taking the time to read this far!

 

[thor]

Hello and welcome to The Lounge.
I am 6’ 1” with wide shoulders and a fairly muscular/athletic build and usually go for shirts with a 37” sleeve. I have a BR William Gibson MA-1 but in a size 46 Long. The sleeves are plenty long and the 46 seems to be a bit on the larger side. I probably could have gotten away with a 44 Long in this particular style. I bought the jacket about 4 years ago so I’m not sure if the patterns are exactly the same.
I think cuff “tunneling” (where the cuff disappears under a sleeve that’s too long) is worse than a cuff stretched out. Just my 2 cents. Hope it works out. It’s a really great jacket, by the way!

 

[adriano_85]

Hello and welcome to The Lounge.
I am 6’ 1” with wide shoulders and a fairly muscular/athletic build and usually go for shirts with a 37” sleeve. I have a BR William Gibson MA-1 but in a size 46 Long. The sleeves are plenty long and the 46 seems to be a bit on the larger side. I probably could have gotten away with a 44 Long in this particular style. I bought the jacket about 4 years ago so I’m not sure if the patterns are exactly the same.
I think cuff “tunneling” (where the cuff disappears under a sleeve that’s too long) is worse than a cuff stretched out. Just my 2 cents. Hope it works out. It’s a really great jacket, by the way!

Thanks for the welcome and thoughts, they're really appreciated.

I wasn't even aware that they made these in a 46/46 Long. Following the size chart's trend, I presume the total sleeve length for yours is 38" or so? I wouldn't think you have much "tunneling" in that case? Anyway, I'm stuck between playing it safe with having a little extra room to spare vs. having too little and an uncomfortable feel. Hearing that someone my height may have preferred a 44 Long is helpful though.

I think this will probably be the first and last time I go after a jacket online - I've become entirely too indecisive, ha!

 

[s4rmark]

I find that the Buzz Rickson nylon jackets they seem to run a size larger than on the tags i take a size 40 normally, but all my Buzz jackets are 38 or medium.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I find that the Buzz Rickson nylon jackets they seem to run a size larger than on the tags i take a size 40 normally, but all my Buzz jackets are 38 or medium.

It's worth pointing out that some people like these types of jackets snug, and other like them with a bit of room.
EDIT: I should expand on that, basically the point is that asking people for fit into is fraught with danger, since some people are 6' and wear a 44 that's snug because they like a snug fit, whereas others are 6' and wear a 46 because they want a bit of room.

 

[adriano_85]

So, just a bit of an update.

I received the jacket today in a 44 Long. The fit in terms of chest and shoulder width, total length and sleeve length is fine. The sleeves themselves are much 'puffier' than I had been expecting after seeing other people's photos but I can live with it.

Having said that, I think I've found what may be a manufacture's defect although I'm not entirely certain - just waiting on a reply from HPA about it. Until then, I thought I would ask here.

Basically, on the left side of the collar near the shoulder seam, there appears to be excess material (the chest's nylon part) that was folded over and then stitched improperly creating a crease and fold. This isn't present on the right side. It's quite unsightly, IMO.

Can someone that has one of these take a look at theirs and let me know if this is indeed a defect and not intended? I can't really see why it would be intended but you never know...

 

[HPA Rep]

So, just a bit of an update.

I received the jacket today in a 44 Long. The fit in terms of chest and shoulder width, total length and sleeve length is fine. The sleeves themselves are much 'puffier' than I had been expecting after seeing other people's photos but I can live with it.

Having said that, I think I've found what may be a manufacture's defect although I'm not entirely certain - just waiting on a reply from HPA about it. Until then, I thought I would ask here.

Basically, on the left side of the collar near the shoulder seam, there appears to be excess material (the chest's nylon part) that was folded over and then stitched improperly creating a crease and fold. This isn't present on the right side. It's quite unsightly, IMO.

Can someone that has one of these take a look at theirs and let me know if this is indeed a defect and not intended? I can't really see why it would be intended but you never know...

Thanks for posting your concerns. As you and I discussed today for nearly an hour and ten minutes on the phone, the photos just do not reveal enough for a definitive answer and only a hands-on review can provide the sort of determination you want and deserve, but my overall opinion based solely on the photos and accompanying conversation is that this is not defective and that it is fully consistent with what would be deemed grade one and in keeping with many other examples here in stock and thousands that have passed through us over the last 20 years or so.

Unlike woolen or cotton jackets made by Buzz Rickson's, and even, to a lesser extent, their lightweight nylon jackets, the nylon jackets with heavy internal batting have the greatest propensity to manifest slight deviations and asymmetries that would clearly be deemed defective on goods made using the newest machinery and so designed for attendant assembly with such machinery. Given the medium of assembly and the design of the goods, there needs to be a different type of evaluation and set of standards applied in evaluating these types of goods. World-acclaimed novelist William Gibson said it more poetically and likely better than I can on page 11 of his highly regarded novel, "Pattern Recognition, which is posted herein now below:

Please let me know how you may wish to proceed. We want you to be happy, but also informed as to the specialized nature of your purchase and what are realistic expectations. Thank you very much!

 

[Doctor Damage]

an hour ten telephone call? not five minutes?

 

[HPA Rep]

an hour ten telephone call? not five minutes?

To be exact, 1 hr., 7 mins., and some number of seconds.

 

[adriano_85]

To be exact, 1 hr., 7 mins., and some number of seconds.

Apparently I'm pretty oblivious to the passage of time. Thanks for such in-depth explanations though!

 

[Will Zach]

Thanks for posting your concerns. As you and I discussed today for nearly an hour and ten minutes on the phone, the photos just do not reveal enough for a definitive answer and only a hands-on review can provide the sort of determination you want and deserve, but my overall opinion based solely on the photos and accompanying conversation is that this is not defective and that it is fully consistent with what would be deemed grade one and in keeping with many other examples here in stock and thousands that have passed through us over the last 20 years or so.

Unlike woolen or cotton jackets made by Buzz Rickson's, and even, to a lesser extent, their lightweight nylon jackets, the nylon jackets with heavy internal batting have the greatest propensity to manifest slight deviations and asymmetries that would clearly be deemed defective on goods made using the newest machinery and so designed for attendant assembly with such machinery. Given the medium of assembly and the design of the goods, there needs to be a different type of evaluation and set of standards applied in evaluating these types of goods. World-acclaimed novelist William Gibson said it more poetically and likely better than I can on page 11 of his highly regarded novel, "Pattern Recognition, which is posted herein now below:

View attachment 192964

Please let me know how you may wish to proceed. We want you to be happy, but also informed as to the specialized nature of your purchase and what are realistic expectations. Thank you very much!

That has to be one of the best-documented replies on FL and one best capturing the OCD nature of its denizens, myself included, lol.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Speaking seriously, I would be bothered by that fold and would return it. I have kind of a hunch, so I need shoulders to be 'clean' so that my bad posture isn't emphasized. Others may not mind. However, in terms of authenticity... these jackets were churned out by the thousands over three decades, so yeah, you can be damn sure no single 'original' jacket was perfect and no two were identical.