Buying the right Lee 101J

[majormajor]

A few folks have asked me recently about recognising vintage Lee 101J Denim jackets.

It's been in production since 1946, and is probably the archetypal denim jacket. It revolutionised Jean Jacket design, gave Lee a huge lead over Levi's and Wrangler, the two other main players in the market.

If the Levi's type 1 & 2s were the "A1" of the Jean Jacket world, then the Lee 101J was the "A2".....

But having been made for so long, it has had a few changes. So if you want one that looks right from a vintage point of view, you need to keep your eyes peeled.

Apart from some very small details, it changed very little before around 1980. But after that, things went a little crazy. First of all, they changed the whole shape of the jacket, and then, horror of horrors, they added handwarmer pockets. Yes, they are convenient, but for the same reason that A2 fans live without them, for a real Lee 101, you simply don't have them.

So, if you have decided you want a "proper" one, here is what to look for.

Below is a pic of a pre 1980 jacket (on the left) alongside the "new shape" introduced later. The newer one is still without handwarmers, but that new shape continued when they added them. Both these jackets are the same size.

If you look at the proprtions of the twin seams running down from below the pockets, the difference is immediately apparent. Also the pockets are a different size/shape, the horizontal seam is in a different place, the bottom hem panel is wider, and the button spacing is different. And the newer one is longer.

Collectors will look for variances in labelling, which can make a huge difference in the price you pay. But as long as you look for the features on the jacket on the left, you WILL find an original style 101J

Hope that helps

 

[Sloan1874]

I was surprised how short my 101J was. It hits the belt buckle, but that's it. So does my Robucks. I'll post some pics of them later.

 

[tonypaj]

I'm no collector of anything. However the older 101Js fit me the best of all jeans jackets. I have two of them, wear them often with a duster. Even to the office...

 

[Deleted member 16736]

When did they stop making these out of selvedge denim?

 

[guygardner]

1970s heavily faded 101J with no side pockets:

[/IMG]
1980, still dark but faded in spots, 101J with side pockets:

[/IMG]

 

[majormajor]

When did they stop making these out of selvedge denim?

Hi Joel

The construction of the 101J involves the inside seams being turned over, so no selfedge is visible.

The oldest one I have is a 1965 model, with the early Lee label and a union-made label inside the pocket. No selfedge is visible. I have a Wrangler jacket of a similar age that DOES have selfedge inside seams.

I could be wrong, but I don't think any of the post '46 101Js had visible selfedges

 

[Sloan1874]

Pleats need ironing, and a pretty poor pic, but here you go:

[/IMG]

 

[majormajor]

Cool fit there, Craig

 

[Sloan1874]

Cheers! Nothing but t-shirts underneath, but I really like the fit and the gf is of the same opinion, so it's a keeper - though how this is a 38 in any stretch of the imagination is beyond me. When the camera batteries re-charge, I'll do the Robuck, which is a little looser, though not much.

 

[EmergencyIan]

I won this Lee 101-J on ebay for $29, last week. It's in excellent condition. I believe it was made somewhere between 1965 and 1969. I think I got it for such a good price because it was listed (title of auction) as a 1970s vintage Lee Denim Jacket.

The reason I got this one, is because I won a size 40 regular, from the same era, pre-1970, about a month ago, but it was just a bit too tight when I buttoned it up. That's the thing about these Lee 101-J and the Levi's Big "E" jackets of the same era ... in my experience, once they have been washed, they shrink to the point where the listed size is the actual measurement of the chest. I typically where a size 38 regular.

By the way, this is the jacket I won a month ago. I need to do something with it, since I cannot wear it comfortably.

- Ian

 

[majormajor]

Very nice jackets, EI

 

[EmergencyIan]

Very nice jackets, EI

Thank you! Both are really great.

I'm a big fan of the Storm Rider, as well. That's a jacket for another thread, however.

- Ian

 

[Sloan1874]

And just for comparison, here's me Roebuck:

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

 

[EmergencyIan]

And just for comparison, here's me Roebuck:

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

That's a pretty cool looking jacket. I've not seen one before, that I recall. And, it fits you better, in my opinion, than the Lee 101-J that you have. You have a little bit of "wiggle room" in it.

- Ian

 

[Sloan1874]

Ta. The 101J is definitely a snug fit in comparison, but it's actually very comfortable to wear - fine across the shoulders and sits well around the waist, no riding up when I raise my arms. It's a sort of 'shirt fit' They were both nice finds though.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Myself, I'm a wrangler man - can't beat those Rodeo Ben designs! - but the 101J is certainly a nice jacket.

 

[majormajor]

Myself, I'm a wrangler man - can't beat those Rodeo Ben designs! - but the 101J is certainly a nice jacket.

Wranglers are certainly very nice, especially (for me) the zipped varieties. RL are currently doing a copy of one in white. Very cool!

 

[majormajor]

That's a pretty cool looking jacket. I've not seen one before, that I recall. And, it fits you better, in my opinion, than the Lee 101-J that you have. You have a little bit of "wiggle room" in it.

- Ian

Hi Ian

Here's another pic of a Roebucks Jacket

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?69721-60-s-Roebucks-Jacket&highlight=roebucks

Made in the 60's - mine and Craig's are the only two I've seen in the UK.

Certainly findable in the US though

 

[Sloan1874]

MM's one is in better nick, though. It looks almost unworn. Mine, on the other hand, is a bit more careworn and was owned at some point by 'Mike', as evidenced by the name scribbled on the inside in ballpoint!

 

[majormajor]

MM's one is in better nick, though. It looks almost unworn. Mine, on the other hand, is a bit more careworn and was owned at some point by 'Mike', as evidenced by the name scribbled on the inside in ballpoint!

I have a lined Lee 191LB jacket with "Ronald" embroidered inside the hem. I've left in there as that was my Dad's name