Buying a suit from Ebay

[retrofashion]

I want to buy some vintage suits on Ebay.
But I've never bought suits online and I’m a bit scared of doing so because of the fit. I'm a bit of a tricky person when it comes to find the right fit. I'm almost 6.1" tall and about 210lbs. I'm well built, with really broad and big shoulders and a slightly over 18” neck. My shoulders width (measuring around my shoulders head with my arms down) is 51", my chest is 42" 1/2 (around chest with arms open) and my waist is 36”. So suits that looks best on me are generally slimmed waist ones. The ones that just drop down straight normally makes me look over weight because of the shoulders width. It looks like a sack on me. So a suit that accentuates the V shape looks best. A weird example: I have a friend, about the same height but really skinny. We went together to a store and he put a 44 trench on and it looked great on him, even though it’s clearly too big for him. He's really skinny. I put on the same trench and it looked horrible. But in stores, the 44 suits are what look OK on me. 46 normally looks like a sack and 42 is too small.
Now is that a way to make a suit would fit me when buying online?
What is the correct way to measuring for a suit? Is there a link with pictures showing how to measure and telling the proper lengths should be for a suit length and sleeves etc?
Any tips of what should look best on me given my descriptions?
Another problem is that I have a hard time telling 30's and 40' suits from just normal modern double breasted and 3 pieces suits and they always look vintage for me. I'm mainly interested in 30's and 40's suits (20's too but they seem harder to come by) in double breast, single breast and 3 pieces.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Ed]

This post from Style Forum may help with
some of your questions.

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=11111&postcount=1

 

[scotrace]

Also see issue 2 of Classic Style Magazine - Marc Chevalier goes into some depth.

 

[retrofashion]

Thanks for the link Ed. I will check it.

I didn't know about the magazine scotrace. Thanks for the tip. I wonder if they have an electronic subscription version.

Googling I may have found what's the problem with my suits.
As my traps are quite developed, my shoulders sit lower. I guess because of this I could fall under this category:

Slope Shoulders
If your off the rack coat shows a diagonal breaking at the back, front, or both.

Here's the website where I saw it:
http://suityourself.com/man_suit.asp

If you scroll down and look for Slope Shoulders you can see a drawing illustrating the problem. That's what I normally get when I try most suits. Lost of folding around the chest and armpit areas.

 

[cookie]

This post from Style Forum may help with
some of your questions.

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=11111&postcount=1

Harris quoting the actual chest size and then adding 4 inches to get the suit size is not really correct as say a 44R is usually 23-24 inches armpit to armpit = 46-47 inches not 48 inches as he suggests ie 44 + 4 = 48. Have a look at any of the Bookster measurements to see my point.

 

[Orgetorix]

Harris quoting the actual chest size and then adding 4 inches to get the suit size is not really correct as say a 44R is usually 23-24 inches armpit to armpit = 46-47 inches not 48 inches as he suggests ie 44 + 4 = 48. Have a look at any of the Bookster measurements to see my point.

I disagree; though it varies from seller to seller. I normally wear a 40R or 41R; my jackets measure 44" to 45" in the chest.

 

[retrofashion]

I disagree; though it varies from seller to seller. I normally wear a 40R or 41R; my jackets measure 44" to 45" in the chest.

Well, normally a 44 is what fits me best. But my chest is 43 1/2. By Harris logic my number should be 44 then.

 

[retrofashion]

Ok I went around and around and every site I found on measuring assumes you have a jacket that fits and tells you to measure the jacket. But I don't have a jacket that fits me at the moment. I haven't bought a new suit since I started bodybuilding. So that won't work for me. I took my measures, as per the several sites instructions, but I took the measures from my body rather than from a jacket. I'm thinking I will have to add some inches to get the right size. OK, if the suit has a size tag, since my chest is 43 1/2 I should get a 44. But not every used suit has a size tag and most people say you shouldn't trust it anyways. So how much do I add to my chest, sleeve length (from middle seem to wrist) and other measures in order to guarantee a suit will fit properly? I'm thinking jacket length should stay the same.
Thanks.

 

[Rooster]

I haven't bought a new suit since I started bodybuilding.

If you're going to continue that you're going to make it even more difficult to find a vintage suit.
The best thing to do is find a suit that fits you well and measure all the critical measurements. then shop for a suit that matches those measurements.
You might consider ordering a 30's style suit from Magnoli, he'll make it fit.

 

[retrofashion]

If you're going to continue that you're going to make it even more difficult to find a vintage suit.

Why, there were no big people back then?lol

Who's Magnoli? Does he have a website? He sells real vintage and make alterations to fit you or vitage reproductions?

 

[scotrace]

Why, there were no big people back then?lol

Who's Magnoli? Does he have a website? He sells real vintage and make alterations to fit you or vitage reproductions?

I can only begin to think you are pulling our chain here.

 

[Rooster]

Why, there were no big people back then?lol

Who's Magnoli? Does he have a website? He sells real vintage and make alterations to fit you or vitage reproductions?

You're already starting at a disadvantage with being over 6' tall. Add another oddity like a body builders physique and your chances of finding an old suit that fits is pretty slim. You do know that 30's era suit that will fit you, if sold on ebay will easily bring over $500 don't you? Probably well over $700 if it's nice. dated 50's suits have been selling for over $150 lately!:rage:
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com

 

[retrofashion]

I can only begin to think you are pulling our chain here.

Why do you say that?

 

[retrofashion]

You're already starting at a disadvantage with being over 6' tall. Add another oddity like a body builders physique and your chances of finding an old suit that fits is pretty slim. You do know that 30's era suit that will fit you, if sold on ebay will easily bring over $500 don't you? Probably well over $700 if it's nice. dated 50's suits have been selling for over $150 lately!:rage:
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com

Wow. I didn't know that. So much uh! Well, maybe I should start looking for reproductions then.

Yes, I realize the body builder physique doesn't help. Some people think it's easier to look nice in a suit if you have a built body, but actually, I think slim people have a much easier time looking good. Pretty much any suit will look good. But when you have a big back, you have a deep arch on your lower back because the main muscles are on the upper part, and then you need a streamlined suit, or you will have a lot of fabric excess on your lower back. That among other things makes finding a suit that fits nicely a hard task.

 

[bookster1uk]

Jacket Measurements

This is not an exact guide but it works for us in 95% of cases or more.
As distance sellers we are conservative with our measurements, better a jacket be SLIGHTLY too large than too small for the wearer, I think I can say it works for 99% of our customers, often the 1% didn't know their size or check the measurements we give.I know first hand how dreadfully disappointing it is to receive an item that won't fit
Laying the jacket flat and measuring at the front, pit to pit, but not all the way to each edge ( comfort margin!)
36" 19.5", 38" 20.5", 40" 21.5", 42" 22.5",44" 23.5", 46" 24.5" etc
I realise this might not be technically acceptable, but by jingo it works.
The main exceptions are, very fitted equestrian style jackets as the riders like a VERY tight fit, and some of the more extreme 60's and 70's items. The variance in manufacturers sizes is quite amazing, but one example I can give is vintage Dunn & Co, which from certain ranges and periods can be almost a size out.Hope this helps, Peter

 

[Dr Doran]

I can only begin to think you are pulling our chain here.

He's "New in Town." Perhaps he has never seen a post by Magnoli.

 

[retrofashion]

Thanks bookster1uk. Very useful.

Doran, you are right. I had no idea this magnoli was a poster until now that you mentioned it.