Building a WWII era British Suit: the details?

[Sefton]

Gentlemen, Sefton needs your expert opinions for a special project. Objective; A custom made three piece suit with all of the distinctive features of a 1940s British original. This weekend I will be having my measurements taken by my (new) tailor,for said suit. This gentleman comes highly recommended for his skill and for his knowledge of vintage men's clothing. I want to be prepared with as much information,photographs,etc. as possible as this is our first serious meeting. I've looked through many of the threads here trying to gather as much valuable information as I can for this project. Now I'd like to hear from you.

What I (think) I know about a WWII era British suit:

Natural shoulders-little or no padding
High gorge and button stance. (I'd like three buttons.)
fully lined jacket
suppressed waist
high waisted trousers slightly higher in back
one back pocket-flapped. on right side
external brace(suspender)buttons
deep forward pleats-about 1 1/2" deep
no taper on legs
1 3/4" cuff height
flapped watch pocket

I haven't made up my mind as to fabric yet,although I'm leaning towards tweed right now. What's the most typical fabrics used at that time?

I may be wrong about some or most details. Please freely correct me on these. Any photographs that you can post would be wonderful. Thank you for reading.
Cheers! Sefton

 

[slicedbread]

angled breast pocket
(this should be a given but...) fully canvassed
I dunno if anyone still has these pics, but Mr. Wooster (a seller on ebay) had some GORGEOUS, GORGEOUS, GORGEOUS suits that he sold and I'd take inspiration from those...

 

[Fletch]

I'd say you have it pretty well, but I'd add that the trou cuffs should be slightly lower in back than in front, and the waist should be more than "slightly" higher in back, in fact curve upwards as much as 2 or 2 1/2" from the front waistline. And the watch pocket flap should be fairly wide.

I'll get my 3pc #B grey nailhead out and take some pix if you like. It illustrates all these principles as well as those you list even tho it dates from well after the 40s.

Has the name of some major in it, surely an Überfogy who had old favorites copied as necessary, none of this narrow lapel and trouser leg nonsense for him.

"That's silly. Stop it at once."

 

[slicedbread]

Here are wooster's suits....Simply incredible! I'd forgotten just how fanastic they were....Also, his photography is the best I've seen on eBay.

http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/SeanWooster/?start=all

more than i can list

 

[herringbonekid]

all sounds correct apart from the bit about shoulder padding. English wartime suits were very well padded in the shoulder. not so much out-there-wide, but definately built up good and solid.

(p.s. slicedbread, the first suit you've pictured above isn't British. but you probably knew that).

 

[mike]

Here are wooster's suits....Simply incredible! I'd forgotten just how fanastic they were....Also, his photography is the best I've seen on eBay.

Is it wrong that this suit makes me drool?! lol

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Sefton seems to be on the right 3rd person track.

Shoulders medium padded. Certainly not natural but not very padded, neither.

Don't forget the extender tab on the waistband. For the more anal amongst us, there should be just a single inner breast pocket - on the right side, set quite high. The lining should be in a polished cotton twill or silk twill if feeling fancy and should (generally) not contrast with the fabric of the suit. Arms should be lined in cotton or silk ticking. This should also form the waistband apron. Fly should be button-closure. 20" at the cuff. Waistcoat, four pockets, 5 or 6 buttons frequently seen. buttons frequently contrast subtly.

p.s. If you're looking for trousers details:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=17254

(Look how short the hair!)

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Very important that the tailor gets the shape of the front of the wescut right. Lots of taper to the points. None of this squaring off.

bk

 

[Feraud]

angled breast pocket

Is an angled breast pocket indicative of an English made suit? Does this hold true for tuxedos too?
Sorry for the seemingly off topic comment but I am trying to establish a pattern (no pun).

 

[Sefton]

Thanks for the input gentlemen. Yes,I found your trouser resource thread very helpful Baron. I forgot to mention that I'm going to make the suit SB,notched lapel.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Aha! Well, don't make it look like the one slicedbread posted. That's very very non-British. Couldn't be less British.

The man.

My only exemplar. But it gives an indication of the gorge, lapel shape etc.; the classic Hardy Amies design.

bk

 

[cookie]

Here are wooster's suits....Simply incredible! I'd forgotten just how fanastic they were....Also, his photography is the best I've seen on eBay.

http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/SeanWooster/?start=all

more than i can list

Drooling drooling... thanks for the link too:eusa_clap

 

[Fletch]

gangsta!!!!!11!111!!

 

[Orgetorix]

Here are wooster's suits....Simply incredible! I'd forgotten just how fanastic they were....Also, his photography is the best I've seen on eBay.

http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/SeanWooster/?start=all

more than i can list

Gee, thanks for reminding me of all the beautiful suits I couldn't afford to bid on.

 

[slicedbread]

My apologies! I do believe though that in the link there's a british suit he has posted up there...

And orgetorix...You're most welcome =) Glad I could be of service! It's kind of a good thing I couldn't afford it because it wasn't my size and if i could afford it id buy it just so i could drool on it...and that would most definitely be a waste. However, we'd be able to test vintage fabric for salivary enzyme resilience and that may be helpful to someone out there...

 

[cookie]

salivary enzyme resilience

My apologies! I do believe though that in the link there's a british suit he has posted up there...

And orgetorix...You're most welcome =) Glad I could be of service! It's kind of a good thing I couldn't afford it because it wasn't my size and if i could afford it id buy it just so i could drool on it...and that would most definitely be a waste. However, we'd be able to test vintage fabric for salivary enzyme resilience and that may be helpful to someone out there...

seriously that is an epidemic of that phenomenon on the Lounge. Tragically there is no cure for it[huh] [huh] - the only panacea is continuous visiting of web sites like Wooster which helps to keep the resilience intact.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Count the numbert of waistcoat buttons...

Alan

 

[PADDY]

British DB wartime 3 pc Montague Burton suit.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hullo Paddy,

How many boutonnes on yonder waistcoat?

bk

 

[Sefton]

Hello Baron Kurtz,

Do you mind if I bring copies of photos of some your suits to show to my tailor? The trouser pleats will be forward and about 2" or 2 1/2" deep. Does that sound about right to you?
What about a bit of vertical stitching extending from the waistband down into the pleat to hold it flat? Is this a feature on British suits of the era and if so how far down the pleat to go?

Thanks for the previous posts,I appreciate your helping me from ending up looking like:

which would make me feel like: