BROOKS BROTHERS

[Vladimir Berkov]

I am not sure any high-end manufacturer is going to make functional suits again. The market has just sort of dried up, people today only wear suits for business or formal occassions. Nobody wears suits for leisure, travel, etc.

The coolest vintage styles often involve things like belted backs, action pleats, etc but seriously who uses those things anymore? You would have a suit which could never be worn as a business suit and is too casual to wear in the evening.

We can only hope I guess that the general level of formality in dress rises to the point where the suit is a legitimate item of everyday clothing again. People in this forum are on the cutting-edge of that movement and if we make our opinions known to makers like Brooks Brothers we might be able to get them to make some interesting things again.

 

[Matt Deckard]

/\
until that day.. make mine custom.

 

[Veronica Parra]

The coolest vintage styles often involve things like belted backs, action pleats, etc but seriously who uses those things anymore? You would have a suit which could never be worn as a business suit and is too casual to wear in the evening.

Damn straight, comrade. Sportswear still exists: but in place of action-back suits, we now have track suits. Multicolored athletic shoes are the spectator/saddle shoes of today. Action back jackets, double-breasted vests and bell-bottom trousers, all of which were fashionable in the '30s and the '70s, will come back again ... but they won't come to stay. Jeans and sneakers are another story ...

-- Marc

 

[Mycroft]

Damn straight, comrade. Sportswear still exists: but in place of action-back suits, we now have track suits. Multicolored athletic shoes are the spectator/saddle shoes of today. Action back jackets, double-breasted vests and bell-bottom trousers, ALL of which were fashionable in the '30s AND the '70s, will come back again ... but they won't come to stay. Jeans and sneakers are another story ...

-- Marc

Very good relating the past to the present, to bad style got lost somewhere in the midde (defently with the 70's).

 

[Senator Jack]

Gentlemen, how do?

Having come across this site, and specifically this thread, I was compelled to immediately register as a member. Chiefly because I share your concerns in the dearth of style in men?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s clothing, but I also thought I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d relate to you my experience at Brooks Brothers.

Though a native New Yorker, here's a place I never set foot in till last year. My entire wardrobe is from thrift shops, tag sales, flea markets, and the like so I never had the need to bother with such a place. Plus I had always associated it with unctuous stockbrokers and oleaginous lawyers, and since they dress in every imaginable way I don?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t, it stood to reason that I wasn?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t going to find anything at their temple. Well last year I got it into my head that for once I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d like to have a French cuff shirt that fits me perfectly - armholes are usually too big and sleeve lengths too long for someone my size - and then there?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s the problem of actually finding appealing colors. While I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d always found pinks, greens, and yellows, for years I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d been searching for a vintage black without success. Then it dawned on me that no one had probably produced such a thing. Till the 90s, black was still considered the color of death. All right, so I set out to visit a few of the Madison Ave shops.

Salesmen show me shirts off the peg for $200. Armholes are too big, sleeves are too long and collars seem to have been designed with the circus in mind. ?¢‚Ǩ?ìBut don?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t you have a narrow spread collar,?¢‚Ǩ? I ask them, (I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m fond of the razor sharp narrow tie which looks ridiculous with the wide spread collar) ?¢‚Ǩ?ìand something with removable buttons?¢‚Ǩ? and I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m given both the eye and the push for not wanting to shell out the $200 for something I don?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t want and is about ten times more than the price I pay for well-made vintage suits. Having had about enough of that, as a last resort I head into Brooks Brothers and from the get-go I think it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s going to be a washout because the doorman has stopped me to ask where I get my clothes from. But I do go round looking over the shirts with the collars too wide and one-size-fits-all-provided-they?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re-not-me armholes and in a few minutes end up in the MTM department where for the first time in my day I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m greeted with any authenticity. (I, unfortunately, later found this salesman to be the only one in the store who possessed such manners as in the pants departments I was looked upon rather superciliously when I dared asked if they had anything flat front and tapered.) But after discussing my wants with the aforementioned he showed me his book of fabrics which consisted of 120 count Egyptian cottons as well as a selection of pricier 180 counts. I settled on the 120 black. ?¢‚ǨÀúOkay, let?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s try one out,?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ I said, and we go over the design. ?¢‚Ǩ?ìNarrow collar??¢‚Ǩ? He takes a few down from the shelf and we go with a pointed two and three-quarter inch. ?¢‚Ǩ?ìSquared cuffs??¢‚Ǩ? Sure. ?¢‚Ǩ?ìRemovable buttons??¢‚Ǩ? No problem. After going over the choices for pleats and pocket (?¢‚Ǩ?ìnone, thank you?¢‚Ǩ?) we step into the room to take measurements. Breadth of shoulders, length to wrist, and even the thickness of left wrist is taken so the cuff won?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t get caught up on my watch. Immediately I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m regretting having not lived in the days when the average joe with his average paycheck could get all his clothes like this. Twenty minutes later, and I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m off to the subway and home for a cocktail.

Five weeks later I get a call for the pick up. Salesman takes it out to show me and he realizes that something wrong with the collar. The stitching is a bit mangled. ?¢‚Ǩ?ìNo, it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s not right,?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ he says, ?¢‚Ǩ?ìI?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m going to send it back,?¢‚Ǩ? and I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m thankful that I wasn?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t the one who had to register a protest. Three weeks later I come back for another fitting and leave a spoiled man, so spoiled, in fact, that I ordered two more shirts (white and royal blue) on which he kindly gives me the ?¢‚Ǩ?ìbuy-three and save ten per cent discount?¢‚Ǩ?.

Did I spend way too much? Certainly, for my budget and spending history that is. But here I was able to buy tailored shirts for a great deal less than the off-the-peg shirts I had been shown at the other shops. And considering how little I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ve spent on my suits, jackets, and ties over the years, (in the 80s I was buying vintage suits for about a dollar) by comparison to what others spend, it doesn?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t seem such a great extravagance at that.

But overall, while my experience at Brooks Brothers was an enjoyable one, as I walked around the shop looking to find some great buy on the discount tables, I thought it too bad it isn?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t the haberdashery it either once was or could be. Apart from the shirt in my bag everything else did bring to mind that detestable look of unctuous stockbrokers and oleaginous lawyers. I suppose I could have them do up a suit exactly as I want it, but in something like the $2,500 price range they?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re for a far wealthier man than I.

In the end, I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d just like to suggest that if you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re in NY, and, like I did, ever had it in your head to buy a fitted shirt, you should visit the shop on 44th and Madison. I believe it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s the flagship store. I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m unsure if you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d get such service at the other locations, and something point me in the direction of no.

Kind regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Matt Deckard]

Welcome to the Lounge Senator. It's good to know more about their custom shirts. Looks like you had a great experience. If I go custom I think I'll have to get the Button down Collar and French cuff look like you see on Cary Grant in some of his movies. Hope to see more posts from you in the future.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Welcome to the boards, Jack! My grandma lives in Queens! On Stanford Ave. near the Main St. post office. It's great to here you've had a pleasant experience.

ray

 

[Senator Jack]

Matt, I've been reading through the posts here and am impressed by the broad range of topics covered. You'll certainly be hearing more from me. I've gone around trying to explain the Cary Grant look to salesman all over New York. From what I'm then shown, it's either me or them, but someone isn't getting it. Same goes for the Fred Astaire look which I've always been partial to. Perhaps it's too intangible.

Ray, your grandmother lives about six miles from me. How do you like that for a small world?

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Corey]

Brooks Brothers custom shirts via Catalog

In the end, I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d just like to suggest that if you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re in NY, and, like I did, ever had it in your head to buy a fitted shirt, you should visit the shop on 44th and Madison. I believe it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s the flagship store. I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m unsure if you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d get such service at the other locations, and something point me in the direction of no.

Kind regards,

Senator Jack

I'm a regular Brooks Brothers shopper, and after a visit last Christmas agree that the one on Madison Ave. is their best. Well, at least it is if, like me, you have to wear modern business attire on a regular basis. You diehard vintage wearers would probably be disappointed.

As for the custom shirts, while you won't get the same level of "hands on" service, if you know your measurements you can simply order the custom Brooks Brothers shirts via their catalog. I receive it regularly in the mail and it contains a wide variety of collar/cuff/fit options in various colors, patterns, and weights(?) of cotton (i.e. 80, 100, 120, 140). Interestingly, I don't think they offer the custom shirts via their website.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I do think it odd that they have the semi custom--you pick your collar, cuff, fit and material in their print catalog though they don't offer that online.

It's not made to measure, though it is pick the fit you like.

 

[jamespowers]

Don't waste your time at the Brooks Brothers in Palo Alto, CA. I think the place has the same color and pattern suit---just in different sizes. The place is sparse to say the least. They had a decent selection of shirts and ties though. Nothing I would wear but decent.

Regards to all,

J

 

[EL COLORADO]

Actually in that whole midtown/upper east side area, where Brooks is, there are quite a many stores that do custom shirts and suits and so on. All if not most, with vintage quality tailoring and very classy.

Those white brouges were definately tops!
Gotta have the top stiched soles daddy-o!

Very nice stuff. Especially if theres a hole in your wardrobe that needs to be filled fast, if vintage hunts are turning up cold.


EL C.

 

[Senator Jack]

Yeah, there's a lot up there, EC, but I find most of the sales people to be surly. A good place for shirts is Luigi's though the fabric isn't as good as BB. Tailoring is equal. They're in chelsea, but I don't have the address right now. The guy I deal with at BB is tops. Very affable, which means a lot to me. I don't like it when someone looks upon me like I ain't got the kind of jack to shop at their store or gives me an attitude when they show me something I don't like.

Cheers,

Senator Jack

 

[EL COLORADO]

Yeah,..but what do you expect at joints like that. If anything I just shake my head and chuckle when i see the prices that they charge for their stuff.
Sure the tailoring is nice,..but ULTIMATELY,.. the fabrics, patterns and styles are too plain jane. Know what I mean? Like, sure theyre sharp.
But theres sharp,.....and then theres vintage sharp!

And the two are worlds apart.

Gimmie my chalk stripes, my glen plaids, my bold herringbones, my buttery gabs, my wrinkle free wools, my sheeny camel hairs.

Who Brothers???

Ha, Ha! Yeah!



EL C.

 

[EL COLORADO]

Actually Ill give Brooks Bros their respect. Theyve been around a LONG time.
Theyre the last of the old timers.


EL C.

 

[Senator Jack]

I posted the pros and cons of BB earlier in this thread. Actually, there was only one pro: I wanted tailored french-cuff shirts that fit and they delivered. The rest of the stuff is pretty bad. But if you really want truly bad, go to Thomas Pink. And have a really good laugh at the prices while you're at it.

Cheers,

Senator Jack

 

[EL COLORADO]

Definately gotta have the black french cuff shirt. Makes the links really stand out.
Where do you get your links?
When you hit manhattan, definately check out, The Missing Link, on 25st btwn 5 & 6 Ave. Nutin but vintage mens jewlery. Theyre in the basement of an antiques mall,...they got teriffic stuff.

 

[Senator Jack]

I've been picking up links for years. Estate sales, antique shops, etc. People used to look at me like I had six heads whenever I asked for black french cuff and now they're all over the place. (though no one seems to get it right) Same thing with flat front pants. I never heard of Missing Link but I'm definitely going to go over there. I'm looking for a silver art deco black face watch. (I'm always really specific in my yearnings) Thanks for the tip.

Regards,

Sentator Jack

 

[EL COLORADO]

Flat front pants,...black french cuffs. Thats early 60's man.
I tell you, that era does NOT get the credit it deserves, as far as the clothing cuts and styles. The sharkskins, the mohairs, the stingy brims, porkpies and skinny ties, the sunglasses. Awesome. A tighter and somewhat more reserved look from the 40's and 50's ,...but sharp as heck!

And it didnt last that long. Maybe up to around '65 or something like that,...and then the hippies came and the whole cultural revolution and flipped it all upside down. With day glo and psychedelic prints and leisure suits and dressing down, and all that stuff that people usually think of as sixties style.

EL C.

 

[Senator Jack]

Yeah I still do the narrow tie, slim jacket, stingy brim look. Though I've got away from sharkskin. It looked better on me as a younger man. What I can't stand is when I'm walking around in my 60s clothes and people say 'Hey, you look like the Blues Brothers.' I guess film references are about the extent of knowledge people have of history. I always turn around and say 'Really, I thought it was Sam and Dave.' Of course, that's returned with a blank look.

As I wrote in earlier posts, I love the razor sharp look of that time - '58 to '66. Even Jack Weston looked great in a milano hat, dark suit, and narrow tie. (Remember the original Thomas Crown Affair?) I saw that as a kid back in the 70s and said 'That's for me.' I suppose if people for once said to me, 'Hey you look like the guys in the Thomas Crown Affair' I would think them a bit more knowledgeable.

Cheers,

Senator Jack