Broken zipper pull on new Rainbow Country leather jacket

[Olumin]

Let me ask a question, would you purchase a 2k Japanese repro that uses ykk zippers?

What do people have against YKK zippers? I always thought they had a stellar reputation.

Are most of these jackets really repros? What model specifically are they reproducing? Most of them look rather generic. I always just looked at them as "vintage inspired" jackets. Outside of the ones specifically stating the model they are replicating of course, like a reproduction A2 or whatever else. But I've never been too interested in those so I dont know much about them.

 

[Jasonissm]

What do people have against YKK zippers? I always thought they had a stellar reputation.

Are most of these jackets really repros? What model specifically are they reproducing? Most of them look rather generic. I always just looked at them as "vintage inspired" jackets. Outside of the ones specifically stating the model they are replicating of course, like a reproduction A2 or whatever else.

Pretty sure most of them are, Hercules is the iconic one, Windward, Lakeland, All-State. Not sure on the source of the design for the cafe racer though, same with the Ponyboy although I've seen vintage examples that are 95% match.

The ones I've seen that aren't repro are just modifications of the pattern for specific dealers, like the one which was just a Hercules with a one piece back and no panel at the hem.

 

[Olumin]

Pretty sure most of them are, Hercules is the iconic one, Windward, Lakeland, All-State. Not sure on the source of the design for the cafe racer though, same with the Ponyboy although I've seen vintage examples that are 95% match.

The ones I've seen that aren't repro are just modifications of the pattern for specific dealers, like the one which was just a Hercules with a one piece back and no panel at the hem.

I mean, I'm sure you could match most of these jackets with their historical counterpart considering just how many jackets have been made, but are they specifically advised as historical reproductions? I dont recall reading that in the product descriptions of most jackets I've looked at, though I'm not saying it couldn't be the case.

Personally, I wont hold something to the standards of a historical reproduction unless its specifically sold as such. I'd gladly accept YKK zippers on most of these jackets, but I also really dont care that much about such things.

 

[Jasonissm]

I mean, I'm sure you could match most of these jackets with their historical counterpart considering just how many jackets have been made, but are they specifically advised as historical reproductions? I dont recall reading that in the product descriptions of most jackets I've looked at, though I'm not saying it couldn't be the case.

Personally, I wont hold something to the standards of a historical reproduction unless its specifically sold as such. I'd gladly accept YKK zippers on most of these jackets, but I also really dont care that much about such things.

Depends on the model and the store. The Mushman collaboration models like the Windward and Lakeland have direct side by side comparison photos. I think they do take special care in reproducing details, but pretty much everything uses the Californian Mfg. label instead of the original label. The fit is also pretty different and they always use repro zippers.

I think most of their jackets are based on a specific example they have, at least their mainline ones, so it would seem a bit out of place for them to not use repro zippers, whereas some brands like Y'2, Moto or Tenjinworks aren't really reproducing an exact piece most of the time so I wouldn't bat an eye. Rainbow Country seems a lot more focused on a specific design or jacket so I think a YKK zipper would seem out of character for the brand.

Some jackets like the Hercules are marketed heavily as reproductions, (like the Hercules which has a big blurb about the specific details they reproduced) some are not although they're pretty much based on specific models.

I also would not mind a YKK either by the way, I have NOS Talon zip on one of my other jackets which zips very poorly but I still like the look. I guess there are many customers that are willing to compromise utility for design or aesthetic. I guess I could also fall in that camp.

 

[PilotJens]

Ykk zippers used to be better.
Ykk is not only making zippers but also sells the machines to make them .There are some ykk zips made with some kind of low end pot metal on my work clothes.

I still don't understand why that maker would use such a fragile zipper pull that has instructions on it on how to use it .
At that price I would think there is enough revenue to try out a few manufacturers.

Take two more or less controversial manufacturers.
5* and noble house.

5* used open sliders with a custom pull for their lightning "repros" which are solid.And noble house uses YKK and no name for their ritsch "repros"
Doing something similar should be possible lol

 

[Marc mndt]

same with the Ponyboy

The Mushman collaboration models like the Windward and Lakeland have direct side by side comparison photos.

Meanwhile they completely alter the pattern to fit their domestic customers.

From Mushmans' blog:

The 50's leather jacket has a wide body and a short box silhouette.
In addition, the armhole is also thick, so if you wear it with the average body shape of a Japanese, you will inevitably feel "borrowed".

This model is reproduced by the excellent patterner of RAINBOW COUNTRY.
Shape around the waist and correction of the length. Also, a sophisticated pattern was completed by modifying the armhole.
If you push it too much and make it tight, the atmosphere will be damaged, so the taste of the 50's is a sense of size that modern Japanese can wear naturally.

This is why I personally think that those Japanese repro's like the Windward or the Allstate and many others look weird / feminine on a lot of western customers.

It's quite funny actually, stocky American guys wearing slimmed down Japanese copies of American workwear.

 

[Jasonissm]

View attachment 644019

Meanwhile they completely alter the pattern to fit their domestic customers.

From Mushmans blog:

The 50's leather jacket has a wide body and a short box silhouette.
In addition, the armhole is also thick, so if you wear it with the average body shape of a Japanese, you will inevitably feel "borrowed".

This model is reproduced by the excellent patterner of RAINBOW COUNTRY.
Shape around the waist and correction of the length. Also, a sophisticated pattern was completed by modifying the armhole.
If you push it too much and make it tight, the atmosphere will be damaged, so the taste of the 50's is a sense of size that modern Japanese can wear naturally.

This is why I personally think that those Japanese repro's like the Windward or the Allstate and many others look weird / feminine on a lot of western customers.

It's quite funny actually, stocky American guys wearing slimmed down Japanese copies of American workwear.

Yeah I was about to say, they're repro in the design, but the fit is completely different to the originals. Originally I though otherwise when I compared some measurement tables with a vintage one, they were close, but when worn the difference is very apparent. When I tried Rainbow Country the fit didn't look right on me although I loved the designs.

Why do you think it looks feminine, just curious. When I tried them my main issues were tighter sleeves, and little waist taper, instead it's cut kind of slim throughout where I prefer wider chest/shoulder and slimmer waist.

 

[Marc mndt]

Why do you think it looks feminine, just curious.

Narrow sleeves, high armholes, no volume on the upper back.

 

[cbez]

Yours looks to have narrow sleeves and high arm holes too..

Back panel difference is substantial tho

 

[Jasonissm]

Narrow sleeves, high armholes, no volume on the upper back.

View attachment 644022 View attachment 644021

Still, I don't see the Rainbow Country as feminine honestly. I see that term thrown around here a lot is it necessarily a bad thing? I've even seen jackets with wide shoulders and narrow waist (even though classic bodybuilding emphasizes these exact things) or any cropped jacket being described as feminine. These are all cuts that I like though. The shape of the Rainbow Country looks like a suit jacket or blazer with structured shoulder pads.

The vintage one does look much better to me, the length mainly is more to my taste as well as back having a much nicer shape emphasizing waistline and shoulders.

 

[Marc mndt]

Yours looks to have narrow sleeves and high arm holes too..

The armholes go halfway down the body lol.

 

[Marc mndt]

Still, I don't see the Rainbow Country as feminine honestly. I see that term thrown around here a lot is it necessarily a bad thing?

I don't think it's necessary a bad thing to deviate from the original patterns, few people today would buy a size 42 jacket that has a 22.5" back length.

However, narrow shoulders and chest, high armholes and slim sleeves may look good on some people but I'm sure that when I'd wear such a jacket it'd look like I borrowed it from my girlfriend.

 

[Jasonissm]

I don't think it's necessary a bad thing to deviate from the original patterns, few people today would buy a size 42 jacket that has a 22.5" back length.

However, narrow shoulders and chest, high armholes and slim sleeves may look good on some people but I'm sure that when I'd wear such a jacket it'd look like I borrowed it from my girlfriend.

View attachment 644029

I see what you mean, that one looks a little undersized for my preference. The previous image in the Windward looks like an appropriate size to my preference even if I'm not a fan of the cut as much. I get what you mean for that example, but other photos I've seen around I think look really great.

Come to think of it I got that same feeling when I tried on the Lewis Leathers "tight fit" models.

Seeing your vintage jackets really makes me appreciate the fit though, for some reason I always used to gravitate to as slim as I can fit, but especially at a shorter length a regular or even wider fit is nicer. I've had pretty bad luck myself fitting vintage jackets though...

 

[Marc mndt]

I see what you mean, that one looks a little undersized for my preference.

Good point, worn the right size the jacket looks great.

Photocredits @Jonas_g

for some reason I always used to gravitate to as slim as I can fit, but especially at a shorter length a regular or even wider fit is nicer.

I did too, I used to prefer my halfbelts to be quite fitted. Nowadays I prefer the look and feel of a more relaxed fit. Same holds for my jeans / trousers .