British Rocker Jackets c.1956-1969

[nightandthecity]

V


WAs greaser ever a term that had currency on this side of the Atlantic? It's not one I've ever seen mentioned much in the UK.

indeed it was, I was a teenager in the UK during the 60s (10 in 1960) and "greaser" was a common term for rockers. But IIRC it was more a term other people applied to rockers rather than a self identification. There was also the term "greebo" which i presume was short for "greaser boy".

 

[Edward]

indeed it was, I was a teenager in the UK during the 60s (10 in 1960) and "greaser" was a common term for rockers. But IIRC it was more a term other people applied to rockers rather than a self identification. There was also the term "greebo" which i presume was short for "greaser boy".

Interesting, I've only ever heard 'Greaser' used in the American context. I guess Rockers self-identifying as such has perpetuated the term as much as anything. That and the press picking up on it with Birghton Beach, likely.

Grebo I've heard used since the 90s, more in the north of England, as a term of abuse for alternative kids, goths in particular, from mainstream kids (townies). Interesting to hear it has earlier roots.

 

[Marc mndt]

Late '60s sheepskin Mascot 'Black Night'.

 

[Edward]

Late '60s sheepskin Mascot 'Black Night'.

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The Black Night is a lovely, and distinctive, design. It would render well in goat also, I think. Pity the revived Mascot didn't managed to establish itself.

 

[Aloysius]

The Black Night is a lovely, and distinctive, design. It would render well in goat also, I think. Pity the revived Mascot didn't managed to establish itself.

I've half-jokingly suggested we send some culturally niche but prized 'in the community' jackets like a Buco or Durable to Five Star in Pakistan to make a reproduction, but some of these British rocker jackets that fell through the cracks would be a genuinely ideal candidate for such a project. What's more, the more 'Commonwealth' sewing techniques they employ–whilst inaccurate for American reproductions (as seen in Aero's firm rules in that respect)–would actually fit.

I've had an eye out for a Black Night for years after you'd mentioned them–shame the revived brand never got off the ground.

 

[Marc mndt]

The Black Night is a lovely, and distinctive, design. It would render well in goat also, I think. Pity the revived Mascot didn't managed to establish itself.

I think they had a good look at Lewis Leathers' Thunderbolt. I wouldn't be surprised if these came from the same factory.

 

[Arnold]

the more 'Commonwealth' sewing techniques they employ

I'm intrigued but uneducated - please elaborate!

The old school short and tapered torso looks like it would be a perfect for me, contrary to most of the recent Schott or LW jackets.

 

[Edward]

I've half-jokingly suggested we send some culturally niche but prized 'in the community' jackets like a Buco or Durable to Five Star in Pakistan to make a reproduction, but some of these British rocker jackets that fell through the cracks would be a genuinely ideal candidate for such a project. What's more, the more 'Commonwealth' sewing techniques they employ–whilst inaccurate for American reproductions (as seen in Aero's firm rules in that respect)–would actually fit.

I've had an eye out for a Black Night for years after you'd mentioned them–shame the revived brand never got off the ground.

It was a pity. I suspect they fell between a few stools. The repros were a perfect recreation of the originals - perhaps too perfect in that they were not up to use as modern bike jackets (Goldtop have since been very clever in incorporating contemporary PPE capability with their revived designs), and on the other hand despite being much more affordable, they didn't seem to get the bites either in the Rocker revival scene, which is now absolutely dominated by Lewis to an extent that is unrepresentative of how things were back in the day.

I think they had a good look at Lewis Leathers' Thunderbolt. I wouldn't be surprised if these came from the same factory.

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OH! Now that is one I've never seen before. Interesting. I don't know which came first. Lewis were of course widely copied, though not averse to the process in reverse themselves: Rivett's Highwayman brand were doing their version of the quintessential Rocket jacket - the straight zip, shirt collar look - at least by 1958, in variants pretty much indistinguishable from the Lewis Corsair & Dominator - both of which debuted in 1962.

Interesting this one is so very similar to the Black Night down to the zips - the only variant being the belt instead of side buckles.

 

[Marc mndt]

I don't know which came first.

I just found the style in these D Lewis catalogs, it's called the 'Whirlwind'.

Found the Thunderbolt as well.

 

[Edward]

I just found the style in these D Lewis catalogs, it's called the 'Whirlwind'.

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Found the Thunderbolt as well.

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What's really interesting about that Whirlwind is - unlike the Thunderbolt - it has sidestraps, and eyelets in its sidestraps. Not seen that on another Lewis.

 

[Imuricecreamman]

I just found the style in these D Lewis catalogs, it's called the 'Whirlwind'.

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Found the Thunderbolt as well.

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Awesome reseach. So cool to see all these styles.

 

[Bonasera]

Belstaff used to make a model similar to Mascot.
Most jacket of this model are made of viynl leather, but this jacket is thick sheepskin.

 

[handymike]

Here is a fringed Belstaff on EBay

 

[Bonasera]

Here is a fringed Belstaff on EBay
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That is cowhide jacket judging from the pictures.
I have a sheepskin Rockers customed one.

 

[Rufus Dayglo]

There's a high probability Sid added the more modern 'button' style badges, but yes, I'd agree there's a high likelihood that it was an old Rocker jacket that he laid hands on.

Here's the jacket in 1988, being sold in a Sotheby's catalogue. Interestingly, that rectangular arrangement of studs in the top left breast (on the right of the photo) here are holding on a Luftwaffe Eagle patch, rather than there being a death's head pin in the middle.... That's if you look at Sid himself, In the picture of the jacket being modelled by a Sotheby's employee (on the right, below), though, you can just make out that it's as it is in Monitor's shot - likely the jacket was disgarded / acquired by somebody else at some point, and changed a bit in form:

Another shot of Sid wearing the jacket (here, it looks more like a 3D Luftwaffe eagle pin than a patch.... may have changed several times):

....and, yes, here it is on the manboy himself, with the death's head in place:

This was the jacket that Sid wore for most of the time in his brief tenure with the Pistols. He was pictured wearing it at Heathrow, headed off to the US. The Schott Perfecto, for which he is much better-known posthumously, came along only when they hit the US. As I recall, the story was that Malcolm bought the boys one each as a reward for behaving themselves on a radio show interview... Sid of course took to the Perfecto liike a second skin, in imitation of his hero and idol Dee Dee Ramone. The Perfecto was the jacket he wore onstage for the few remaining Pistols gigs, in The Great Rock'n'Roll Swindle, and, infamously, in his police mugshot when he was arrested for the murder of Nancy Spungen. Truly, though, this Lewis was the real Sid Vicious Sex Pistols jacket. I wish it could talk; I'd love to know its full, pre-Sid story. Either way, it's a fine example of a Rocker-style jacket - probably even actually one.

Postscript.... Looking again at those photos, I'm starting to wodner if some of these badges weren't added post Sid, by someone seeking to take it full circle back to being a true Rocker jacket again....

Necro post!

Sid got his Lewis Leathers jacket from Viv Albertine of the Slits, when he briefly dossed at her place. You can see photos of him wearing it at Notre Dame hall in 1976 pre joinging the Pistols, and a Hoheitszeichen ( Nazi eagle and swastika ) on the right side.
There are photos from the 100 club Punk Festival with Viv wearing it, when Sid drummed for the Banshees. It's clearly an old rockers jacket and still has attached cloth patches, surrounded by studs. Sid later ripped off the rocker patches and just left the studs, adding his own badges.

His other 'famous' jacket, A Daniel Boone Horsehide MC jacket ( smiliar but a shorter cut to a Perfecto, and with exposed zips ) he inherited from Steve and Paul in the Pistols in 1late 1977.
The Daniel Boone jacket was given to Steve by Malcolm, with STEVE painted on the left side, a la 'The Wild One'.
Steve didn't like it ( he prefered longer bodied MC jackets, the Boone is cut very short and high ), and Paul wore it, still with Steve's name on it.
Paul Cook an be seen wearing it in an Australian TV interview November 1977, and a month Later, Sid had it on in Holland and then as his signature jacket for the ill fated American tour.

When Sid moved with Nancy to NYC, he had both jackets with him. When he died, his neighbour at the Chelsea Hotel, Neon Leon, purloined the Lewis Lathers jacket from their hotel room, along with other souvenirs. He was photograhed in various interviews in the 1980s showing them off to curious journalists.
He later sold the LL jacket ( and it's from this period someone added the other Pin badges. ). Sid requested he be buried with his leather jacket ( he was creamted in fact ) so his Daniel Boone jacket was likely incinerated on him.

 

[Mysteryo]

Mike drop! Thank you Bro, that was very educative

 

[Rufus Dayglo]

Mike drop! Thank you Bro, that was very educative

Sorry for being such a nerd ( and so belatedly )

 

[Edward]

Necro post!

Sid got his Lewis Leathers jacket from Viv Albertine of the Slits, when he briefly dossed at her place. You can see photos of him wearing it at Notre Dame hall in 1976 pre joinging the Pistols, and a Hoheitszeichen ( Nazi eagle and swastika ) on the right side.
There are photos from the 100 club Punk Festival with Viv wearing it, when Sid drummed for the Banshees. It's clearly an old rockers jacket and still has attached cloth patches, surrounded by studs. Sid later ripped off the rocker patches and just left the studs, adding his own badges.

His other 'famous' jacket, A Daniel Boone Horsehide MC jacket ( smiliar but a shorter cut to a Perfecto, and with exposed zips ) he inherited from Steve and Paul in the Pistols in 1late 1977.
The Daniel Boone jacket was given to Steve by Malcolm, with STEVE painted on the left side, a la 'The Wild One'.
Steve didn't like it ( he prefered longer bodied MC jackets, the Boone is cut very short and high ), and Paul wore it, still with Steve's name on it.
Paul Cook an be seen wearing it in an Australian TV interview November 1977, and a month Later, Sid had it on in Holland and then as his signature jacket for the ill fated American tour.

When Sid moved with Nancy to NYC, he had both jackets with him. When he died, his neighbour at the Chelsea Hotel, Neon Leon, purloined the Lewis Lathers jacket from their hotel room, along with other souvenirs. He was photograhed in various interviews in the 1980s showing them off to curious journalists.
He later sold the LL jacket ( and it's from this period someone added the other Pin badges. ). Sid requested he be buried with his leather jacket ( he was creamted in fact ) so his Daniel Boone jacket was likely incinerated on him.

Hey hey! Great to see you drop in. Hope all's well down in the French borders!

Appreciate the extra detail. Interesting especially on the Daniel Boone: I did not know the story to that one (I think I'd assumed it was a Perfecto for years). I remember a story he'd swapped his red 'Let it Rock' drape jacket with Steve for a leather - was it that one, or is that a myth?

I recall reading he was cremated in Nancy's mother's book - there was some controversy over whether his ashes would be sprinkled on her grave as was talked about at some point. There's a crime museum somewhere in Essex now has a pair of motorcycle boots that belonged to Sid as well - not the ones he had in the US ,though, that he was presumably cremated in...

 

[Rufus Dayglo]

Hey hey! Great to see you drop in. Hope all's well down in the French borders!

Appreciate the extra detail. Interesting especially on the Daniel Boone: I did not know the story to that one (I think I'd assumed it was a Perfecto for years). I remember a story he'd swapped his red 'Let it Rock' drape jacket with Steve for a leather - was it that one, or is that a myth?

I recall reading he was cremated in Nancy's mother's book - there was some controversy over whether his ashes would be sprinkled on her grave as was talked about at some point. There's a crime museum somewhere in Essex now has a pair of motorcycle boots that belonged to Sid as well - not the ones he had in the US ,though, that he was presumably cremated in...

Sid had Steve's Daniel Boone before they left for the States ( He wore it in Holland in Dec 1977 ).

The whole band tended to wear each other's gear ( Paul wearing John's famous 'I hate Pink Floyd shirt ) and Sid was more than happy to help himself. Sid's famous leopard print vest was worn by both John and Glen Matlock in 76 prior to Sid nabbing it. The practice space at Denmark street was also wear Steve lived and was also an area their clothes were dumped, so Sid helped himself. He also would happily ask for things from others. ( famously demanding photographer Bob Gruen's engineer boots while on the US tour )

As an aside, I have just helped an amazing Japanese company PEEL&LIFT which recreates amazing Seditionaries clothing to recreate Sid's leopard print vest, as I had a matching example ( which I got via Steve New, the Rich Kid's guitarist years ago )
They have recreated with the custom made material. It will be avaiable soon!

In Japan, Neon Leathergarment also teamed up with PEEL&LIFT this year to release am exact copy of sid's Boone Jacket. It's a cool piece, but if you look hard you can find a real Daniel Boone cheaper.

 

[Edward]

Sid had Steve's Daniel Boone before they left for the States ( He wore it in Holland in Dec 1977 ).

The whole band tended to wear each other's gear ( Paul wearing John's famous 'I hate Pink Floyd shirt ) and Sid was more than happy to help himself. Sid's famous leopard print vest was worn by both John and Glen Matlock in 76 prior to Sid nabbing it. The practice space at Denmark street was also wear Steve lived and was also an area their clothes were dumped, so Sid helped himself. He also would happily ask for things from others. ( famously demanding photographer Bob Gruen's engineer boots while on the US tour )

As an aside, I have just helped an amazing Japanese company PEEL&LIFT which recreates amazing Seditionaries clothing to recreate Sid's leopard print vest, as I had a matching example ( which I got via Steve New, the Rich Kid's guitarist years ago )
They have recreated with the custom made material. It will be avaiable soon!

In Japan, Neon Leathergarment also teamed up with PEEL&LIFT this year to release am exact copy of sid's Boone Jacket. It's a cool piece, but if you look hard you can find a real Daniel Boone cheaper.

Nice! Look forward to seeing that vest, always fancied one. I did find one years ago in Camden when Hi-Star still had a stall in the stables, in among their vintage Lewis jackets, but it was tiny - too small even for me as I was then (probably by as much as what I could wear then is too small for me now!). Always loves how even by the Seditionaries period there was stuff here and there that still echoed the retro vibe of the Let It Rock era...