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BRITISH Belt-Back Suits and Sports Jackets

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Robert Donat's '39 Steps' jacket in action:

Robert_Donat_39_steps_zps2ac07b4f.jpg


(more shots of this jacket on page 5)
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
These are from a 1943 British film 'The Silver Fleet' (or as I might refer to it 'The Belt-Back Boys vs the Nazis'):

First we have a short belt-back leisure jacket. I obviously can't be certain it's British but I thought it should be posted here:
beltback1_zps169ff2bc.jpg

beltback5_zps4f8434f6.jpg

beltback4_zps2b76ca6f.jpg

beltback3_zps3fd9b1a1.jpg


The film also includes another belt-back:
secondbeltback_zps186e6f97.jpg

nazilookingatthedecadentpleatedpocketsofdemocracy_zps0a6c174c.jpg

(Caption: Nazi looks on in disgust at the decadent pleated pockets of democracy)
 

simonc

Practically Family
Messages
918
Location
United Kingdom
Going by what we see here its fair to say that most belt-back jackets have notched lapels and not peaked lapels? why do you think this maybe?
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
This is certainly a correct assertion... although numerous exceptions existed.
It's due to notch-lapels being the standard for a sport-jacket and being considered the "sporty" lapel, while peaks were "dressy".

That short sports jacket is lovely, by the way!
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
That short sports jacket is lovely, by the way!

It appears to be unlined and unstructured, being constructed more like a shirt than a jacket. (As an aside - I'm told that, back in the day, tailoring firms used their shirtmakers rather than coatmakers to work on lightweight summer jackets due to the construction methods being similar)
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Here is Stanley Holloway in the 1955 film 'The Titfield Thunderbolt', wearing a tweed belt back jacket. It has a very broad skirt and deep vent (all the way up to the belt). Is that a 1920s style for belt-backs?:
beltback3_zps40b81bdd.jpg

beltback4_zps44dcba20.jpg

BowTie-Holloway-TheTitfieldThunderbolt_zps496e9a73.jpg

StanleyHollowayandflower_zps80920b4d.jpg

beltback2_zpsfa582a29.jpg
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
So it really is a curious hybrid. To be honest, looking at the front of the jacket I really didn't expect it to be a belt-back.
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Here's an unusual one. It looks like a half Norfolk. Worn by Garry Marsh in the 1947 film Freida:

jacketfront2_zpsf55f7ca0.jpg

jacketfront2_zpsd5543043.jpg

jacketback_zps60b31256.jpg

jacketback2_zps65e75722.jpg


It has bellows pockets, a loose belt, shoulder yoke, no pleats on the back but it appears to be gathered beneath the yoke.
 

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,006
Location
Great Northwest
I just picked up this made in England "Thornproof" Tweed with a half belt. I got it from an Etsy store that has a great selection and fantastic service. It shipped out really fast. I can't praise this Etsy store enough. I had great communication with the owner who said that if the jacket didn't fit I could send it back. Here's a link in case anyone would like to peruse his items.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/RockItAgainVintage?ref=l2-shopheader-name

Here's the jacket.





fedoralover
 

Metatron

One Too Many
Messages
1,536
Location
United Kingdom
I like it, I think a sober colour like this benefits from detailing on the pockets. Additionally one can be adventurous with the rest of the outfit.
 

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,006
Location
Great Northwest
I saw some jackets with 2 top pockets with flaps and those do look a little too "uniform" like. But with just one it sets it off. I love scalloped pocket flaps and it took me a lot of looking to find one in my size in great shape. I looked through hundreds of Tweeds and only a few had scalloped pocket flaps, so I know they are relatively rare on ebay and etsy. When I did find one it would be the wrong size or have a few defects or cost over $700. I was glad to find this one.

fedoralover
 
Last edited:

1940sFreddie

Familiar Face
Messages
55
Location
England uk
Great news! I must sort out getting all your belt-backs photographed.

Sean yes we must organise something.

Very pleased with my latest purchase, although its one for the collection as its a bit on the small side. When the dealer sent me photos it looked dark brown. To my surprise when I got to see it in the flesh its a pale brown/fawn colour. This suit is really unusual I just love the style having patch pockets with pleated fronts and of course a rear belt. I am considering having it altered to fit, as I really want to wear it. :p









 

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