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Books About 20th Century Men's Hats?
- Thread starter stevensonbruce
- Start date
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- 17,467
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"Der Hut / The Hat" By Gustav Menschel
Author
Gustav A. Menschel Ing., born 1934, graduate of the Federal Institute of Textile Industry, Vienna, Higher Department of Textile Chemistry. Technical Director of Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik Aktiengesellschaft. 1976 Joined Bayer Austria Ges.m.b.H., Vienna, Managing Director Dyes.
The explanations on the felt hat are essentially based on the state of knowledge of 1970. Many of the technical and commercial documents come from the decommissioned documents in 1971.
EBREICHSDORFER FILZHUTFABRIK AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT (EFAG)
(formerly S.&J. Fraenkel) Ebreichsdorf, Lower Austria.
Rough Translation of the Index Page
INTRODUCTION 1
CULTURAL HISTORY OF THE HUTES 1
1 The headgear of the primitives and those of the pre-Christian peoples 1
2 The headgear after antiquity 5
3 The Hatmaker 17
4 Symbolism and Legends 23
5 The importance of felt hat production for the economy 25
6 Braided headgear 34
STROHHUT PRODUCTION 44
1 Textile Techniques 44
2 Braiding fabrics 46
3 Braided strips 46
3.1 Hand braiding 47
3.2 Machine braiding 48
3.3 Braids of vegetable braids 50
3.4 Braids of animal lichens 52
3.5 Braids of replicated braids 52
3.6 Stitched Hats 55
4 Braided stumps 57
5 Industrial straw hat production 61
5.1 Bleaching / dyeing of bast fibres, straw and other plant fibres 61
5.2 Straw hat-Zurichte 64
CRAFT PRODUCTION OF WOOL AND HAIR HATS 66
1 The handcrafted hat 66
2 Headgear for workwear 93
INDUSTRIAL HAIR HAT PRODUCTION 100
COMMODITIES 102
1 Wool, hare hair, tame canine and wild canine fibres 102
1.1 Histological structure 102
1.2 The keratin and its function in the construction of the fiber 102
1.3 Quality-determining properties 103
2 Other fibres 106
2.1 Animal hair 106
2.2 Immunised protein fibres 106
2.3 Regenerated protein fibres 106
2.4 Fully synthetic fibres 108
2.5 Cellulose fibres 109
HUTSTOFF PRODUCTION 110
1 Hair fabric 110
1.1 Bunny hair 110
1.2 Wild canine hair 111
1.3 Zahmkanin hair 111
1.4 Mixing components 111
2 Hair tailoring 112
2.1 Preparatory work 112
2.2 Pickling 113
2.3 Cutting 116
2.4 Quality control 117
2.5 Internationally agreed quality designations of hat fabrics 118
HAARSTUMPENPRODUCTION 120
1 Raw material testing 120
1.1 Analytical test methods 120
1.2 Standard operations for sample stumps 122
2 Mixing 124
2.1 Commodities 124
2.2 Mixing equipment 126
3 Bubbles 128
3.1 Blowing machines 128
4 Trays 130
4.1 Specialist machines 130
4.2 Influencing factors 134
5 Felting / Walking 137
5.1 Felting 138
5.2 Kick-off 143
5.3 Walken 143
6 Surface treatment 157
6.1 Feathered Hat / Plumes 157
6.2 Brushed Velour 159
7 Colouring 163
7.1 Dyeing 165
7.2 Partial dyeing 174
7.3 Bleaching 176
7.4 Equipping 177
8 Drainage / Drying / Moulding 178
8.1 Draining / Drying 178
8.2 Shapes 179
ZURICHTE 182
1 Stiffeners 183
2 Surface treatment 186
2.1 Loops 186
2.2 Rough 190
2.3 Scissors 191
2.4 Side work 193
3 Men's hat 194
3.1 Stiff hat 195
3.2 Soft hair hat 196
4 Women's Hat 203
4.1 Hat shapes 204
4.2 Women's hat production 207
INDUSTRIAL WOOL HAT PRODUCTION 210
COMMODITIES 212
1 Sheep wool 212
1.1 Quality-determining properties 212
1.2 Sheep wool as a commercial object 215
2 Others want 216
WOOL TREATMENT 218
1 Wash 218
2 Entpechen 220
3 Carbonating 221
WOOL STUMP PRODUCTION 223
1 Mixing 223
1.1 Narrows 223
1.2 Wolfen / Krempeln 224
2 Compartments 226
3 Felting / Walking 227
3.1 Felting 227
3.2 Walken 228
4 Colouring 230
ZURICHTE 232
1 Men's hat 232
1.1 Decanting 232
SEE BACKS, THERMISCH GEFORMTE HÜTE 234
1 Design 234
1.1 Stitched Hats 235
1.2 Thermally shaped hats 236
Credit 237
Registered trademarks 237
Sources / Literature 238
ANNEX 242 (Production Processes of Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik as of 1972)
My Side Note: Unfortunately this book is only in German and French and I only have a German copy. This book is in a class of it's own. As far as I know Mr. Menschel is still living (he would be 88 this year) but I haven't been in contact with him since 2019. I have been working on and off on a English translation but it's major undertaking.
Author
Gustav A. Menschel Ing., born 1934, graduate of the Federal Institute of Textile Industry, Vienna, Higher Department of Textile Chemistry. Technical Director of Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik Aktiengesellschaft. 1976 Joined Bayer Austria Ges.m.b.H., Vienna, Managing Director Dyes.
The explanations on the felt hat are essentially based on the state of knowledge of 1970. Many of the technical and commercial documents come from the decommissioned documents in 1971.
EBREICHSDORFER FILZHUTFABRIK AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT (EFAG)
(formerly S.&J. Fraenkel) Ebreichsdorf, Lower Austria.
Rough Translation of the Index Page
INTRODUCTION 1
CULTURAL HISTORY OF THE HUTES 1
1 The headgear of the primitives and those of the pre-Christian peoples 1
2 The headgear after antiquity 5
3 The Hatmaker 17
4 Symbolism and Legends 23
5 The importance of felt hat production for the economy 25
6 Braided headgear 34
STROHHUT PRODUCTION 44
1 Textile Techniques 44
2 Braiding fabrics 46
3 Braided strips 46
3.1 Hand braiding 47
3.2 Machine braiding 48
3.3 Braids of vegetable braids 50
3.4 Braids of animal lichens 52
3.5 Braids of replicated braids 52
3.6 Stitched Hats 55
4 Braided stumps 57
5 Industrial straw hat production 61
5.1 Bleaching / dyeing of bast fibres, straw and other plant fibres 61
5.2 Straw hat-Zurichte 64
CRAFT PRODUCTION OF WOOL AND HAIR HATS 66
1 The handcrafted hat 66
2 Headgear for workwear 93
INDUSTRIAL HAIR HAT PRODUCTION 100
COMMODITIES 102
1 Wool, hare hair, tame canine and wild canine fibres 102
1.1 Histological structure 102
1.2 The keratin and its function in the construction of the fiber 102
1.3 Quality-determining properties 103
2 Other fibres 106
2.1 Animal hair 106
2.2 Immunised protein fibres 106
2.3 Regenerated protein fibres 106
2.4 Fully synthetic fibres 108
2.5 Cellulose fibres 109
HUTSTOFF PRODUCTION 110
1 Hair fabric 110
1.1 Bunny hair 110
1.2 Wild canine hair 111
1.3 Zahmkanin hair 111
1.4 Mixing components 111
2 Hair tailoring 112
2.1 Preparatory work 112
2.2 Pickling 113
2.3 Cutting 116
2.4 Quality control 117
2.5 Internationally agreed quality designations of hat fabrics 118
HAARSTUMPENPRODUCTION 120
1 Raw material testing 120
1.1 Analytical test methods 120
1.2 Standard operations for sample stumps 122
2 Mixing 124
2.1 Commodities 124
2.2 Mixing equipment 126
3 Bubbles 128
3.1 Blowing machines 128
4 Trays 130
4.1 Specialist machines 130
4.2 Influencing factors 134
5 Felting / Walking 137
5.1 Felting 138
5.2 Kick-off 143
5.3 Walken 143
6 Surface treatment 157
6.1 Feathered Hat / Plumes 157
6.2 Brushed Velour 159
7 Colouring 163
7.1 Dyeing 165
7.2 Partial dyeing 174
7.3 Bleaching 176
7.4 Equipping 177
8 Drainage / Drying / Moulding 178
8.1 Draining / Drying 178
8.2 Shapes 179
ZURICHTE 182
1 Stiffeners 183
2 Surface treatment 186
2.1 Loops 186
2.2 Rough 190
2.3 Scissors 191
2.4 Side work 193
3 Men's hat 194
3.1 Stiff hat 195
3.2 Soft hair hat 196
4 Women's Hat 203
4.1 Hat shapes 204
4.2 Women's hat production 207
INDUSTRIAL WOOL HAT PRODUCTION 210
COMMODITIES 212
1 Sheep wool 212
1.1 Quality-determining properties 212
1.2 Sheep wool as a commercial object 215
2 Others want 216
WOOL TREATMENT 218
1 Wash 218
2 Entpechen 220
3 Carbonating 221
WOOL STUMP PRODUCTION 223
1 Mixing 223
1.1 Narrows 223
1.2 Wolfen / Krempeln 224
2 Compartments 226
3 Felting / Walking 227
3.1 Felting 227
3.2 Walken 228
4 Colouring 230
ZURICHTE 232
1 Men's hat 232
1.1 Decanting 232
SEE BACKS, THERMISCH GEFORMTE HÜTE 234
1 Design 234
1.1 Stitched Hats 235
1.2 Thermally shaped hats 236
Credit 237
Registered trademarks 237
Sources / Literature 238
ANNEX 242 (Production Processes of Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik as of 1972)
My Side Note: Unfortunately this book is only in German and French and I only have a German copy. This book is in a class of it's own. As far as I know Mr. Menschel is still living (he would be 88 this year) but I haven't been in contact with him since 2019. I have been working on and off on a English translation but it's major undertaking.
Last edited:
Would love to find a copy of this book, but can't find it mentioned anywhere. "Eigenverlag" means self-published. Is that the case, Steve?"Der Hut / The Hat" By Gustav Menschel
Author
Gustav A. Menschel Ing., born 1934, graduate of the Federal Institute of Textile Industry, Vienna, Higher Department of Textile Chemistry. Technical Director of Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik Aktiengesellschaft. 1976 Joined Bayer Austria Ges.m.b.H., Vienna, Managing Director Dyes.
The explanations on the felt hat are essentially based on the state of knowledge of 1970. Many of the technical and commercial documents come from the decommissioned documents in 1971.
EBREICHSDORFER FILZHUTFABRIK AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT (EFAG)
(formerly S.&J. Fraenkel) Ebreichsdorf, Lower Austria.
Rough Translation of the Index Page
INTRODUCTION 1
CULTURAL HISTORY OF THE HUTES 1
1 The headgear of the primitives and those of the pre-Christian peoples 1
2 The headgear after antiquity 5
3 The Hatmaker 17
4 Symbolism and Legends 23
5 The importance of felt hat production for the economy 25
6 Braided headgear 34
STROHHUT PRODUCTION 44
1 Textile Techniques 44
2 Braiding fabrics 46
3 Braided strips 46
3.1 Hand braiding 47
3.2 Machine braiding 48
3.3 Braids of vegetable braids 50
3.4 Braids of animal lichens 52
3.5 Braids of replicated braids 52
3.6 Stitched Hats 55
4 Braided stumps 57
5 Industrial straw hat production 61
5.1 Bleaching / dyeing of bast fibres, straw and other plant fibres 61
5.2 Straw hat-Zurichte 64
CRAFT PRODUCTION OF WOOL AND HAIR HATS 66
1 The handcrafted hat 66
2 Headgear for workwear 93
INDUSTRIAL HAIR HAT PRODUCTION 100
COMMODITIES 102
1 Wool, hare hair, tame canine and wild canine fibres 102
1.1 Histological structure 102
1.2 The keratin and its function in the construction of the fiber 102
1.3 Quality-determining properties 103
2 Other fibres 106
2.1 Animal hair 106
2.2 Immunised protein fibres 106
2.3 Regenerated protein fibres 106
2.4 Fully synthetic fibres 108
2.5 Cellulose fibres 109
HUTSTOFF PRODUCTION 110
1 Hair fabric 110
1.1 Bunny hair 110
1.2 Wild canine hair 111
1.3 Zahmkanin hair 111
1.4 Mixing components 111
2 Hair tailoring 112
2.1 Preparatory work 112
2.2 Pickling 113
2.3 Cutting 116
2.4 Quality control 117
2.5 Internationally agreed quality designations of hat fabrics 118
HAARSTUMPENPRODUCTION 120
1 Raw material testing 120
1.1 Analytical test methods 120
1.2 Standard operations for sample stumps 122
2 Mixing 124
2.1 Commodities 124
2.2 Mixing equipment 126
3 Bubbles 128
3.1 Blowing machines 128
4 Trays 130
4.1 Specialist machines 130
4.2 Influencing factors 134
5 Felting / Walking 137
5.1 Felting 138
5.2 Kick-off 143
5.3 Walken 143
6 Surface treatment 157
6.1 Feathered Hat / Plumes 157
6.2 Brushed Velour 159
7 Colouring 163
7.1 Dyeing 165
7.2 Partial dyeing 174
7.3 Bleaching 176
7.4 Equipping 177
8 Drainage / Drying / Moulding 178
8.1 Draining / Drying 178
8.2 Shapes 179
ZURICHTE 182
1 Stiffeners 183
2 Surface treatment 186
2.1 Loops 186
2.2 Rough 190
2.3 Scissors 191
2.4 Side work 193
3 Men's hat 194
3.1 Stiff hat 195
3.2 Soft hair hat 196
4 Women's Hat 203
4.1 Hat shapes 204
4.2 Women's hat production 207
INDUSTRIAL WOOL HAT PRODUCTION 210
COMMODITIES 212
1 Sheep wool 212
1.1 Quality-determining properties 212
1.2 Sheep wool as a commercial object 215
2 Others want 216
WOOL TREATMENT 218
1 Wash 218
2 Entpechen 220
3 Carbonating 221
WOOL STUMP PRODUCTION 223
1 Mixing 223
1.1 Narrows 223
1.2 Wolfen / Krempeln 224
2 Compartments 226
3 Felting / Walking 227
3.1 Felting 227
3.2 Walken 228
4 Colouring 230
ZURICHTE 232
1 Men's hat 232
1.1 Decanting 232
SEE BACKS, THERMISCH GEFORMTE HÜTE 234
1 Design 234
1.1 Stitched Hats 235
1.2 Thermally shaped hats 236
Credit 237
Registered trademarks 237
Sources / Literature 238
ANNEX 242 (Production Processes of Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik as of 1972)
My Side Note: Unfortunately this book is only in German and French and I only have a German copy. This book is in a class of it's own. As far as I know Mr. Menschel is still living (he would be 88 this year) but I haven't been in contact with him since 2019. I have been working on and off on a English translation but it's major undertaking.
hüte Hüte HÜTE - Von Kopf bis Hut. Kopfbedeckungen aus der Sammlung des Modemuseums im Münchner Stadtmuseum von 18. jahrhundert bis 2000
various Authors
hardcover 264 pages
Münchner Stadtmuseum/Münchner Modemuseum 2000
This is a book consisting of a series of essays about particular hats and hatstyles that belong to the museum. It is in German and richly illustrated, but the essays are not all equally interesting of course and not all of them are about men's hats. Still worthwhile if you can read German and can get a copy. Recommended.
various Authors
hardcover 264 pages
Münchner Stadtmuseum/Münchner Modemuseum 2000
This is a book consisting of a series of essays about particular hats and hatstyles that belong to the museum. It is in German and richly illustrated, but the essays are not all equally interesting of course and not all of them are about men's hats. Still worthwhile if you can read German and can get a copy. Recommended.
Chapeau – Das Westallgäu behütet die Welt: Die Geschichte der Hutproduktion in Lindenberg und Umgebung
Georg Grübel, Klaus Gietinger, Manfred Röhrl (Authors)
Hardcover 264 pages
Kunstverlag Josef Fink 9 maart 2015
Another book in German. This time about the history of the hatindustry in southern Germany from a cottage industry to earn a little extra income in winter to a siginificant economic force. Focuses on the straw hat manufacturing mainly, but has a good deal of attention as well for the manufacturers that produced felt hats as well, like Aurel huber, Mayser-Milz and Ottmar Reich. Very well researched it offers lots of factual data. It has plenty of photos and illustrations as well and it is therefore highly recommended for those who can read German. No longer in print, but it looks like the publisher still has copies for sale.
Georg Grübel, Klaus Gietinger, Manfred Röhrl (Authors)
Hardcover 264 pages
Kunstverlag Josef Fink 9 maart 2015
Another book in German. This time about the history of the hatindustry in southern Germany from a cottage industry to earn a little extra income in winter to a siginificant economic force. Focuses on the straw hat manufacturing mainly, but has a good deal of attention as well for the manufacturers that produced felt hats as well, like Aurel huber, Mayser-Milz and Ottmar Reich. Very well researched it offers lots of factual data. It has plenty of photos and illustrations as well and it is therefore highly recommended for those who can read German. No longer in print, but it looks like the publisher still has copies for sale.
Cowboys and Hatters: Bond Street, Sagebrush, and the Silver Screen
Debbie Henderson (Author)
Paperback – 96 pages
Kent State Museum January 1, 1996
It's another book by our friend Debbie Henderson. Here's a portrait of her by the way:
Like all her books an interesting read. It was published to accompany an exhibition and consists of a few essays and a few interviews (much like her "Hat Talk" book). The connection between cinema and the hat-industry (including retail) isn't all that fleshed out in the book, but who cares? Worthwhile to get a copy, so highly recommended.
Debbie Henderson (Author)
Paperback – 96 pages
Kent State Museum January 1, 1996
It's another book by our friend Debbie Henderson. Here's a portrait of her by the way:
Like all her books an interesting read. It was published to accompany an exhibition and consists of a few essays and a few interviews (much like her "Hat Talk" book). The connection between cinema and the hat-industry (including retail) isn't all that fleshed out in the book, but who cares? Worthwhile to get a copy, so highly recommended.
111 Darlings - a hat book
Magdalena Lueger (ed.)
Hardcover : 288 pages
Metroverlag (September 1, 2014)
The book is an overview, mostly in pictures, but a good deal in text as well, of 111 years of the history of the Mühlbauer hat store, located in Vienna. Interesting in its own way, but not one to put high on the list. The focus isn't on men's hats in general or on the history of hats and their manufacture. You can still get a copy, but prices are up there. I got my copy from the shop and likely they still have them.
Magdalena Lueger (ed.)
Hardcover : 288 pages
Metroverlag (September 1, 2014)
The book is an overview, mostly in pictures, but a good deal in text as well, of 111 years of the history of the Mühlbauer hat store, located in Vienna. Interesting in its own way, but not one to put high on the list. The focus isn't on men's hats in general or on the history of hats and their manufacture. You can still get a copy, but prices are up there. I got my copy from the shop and likely they still have them.
Omaggio al cappello - La Borsalino di Teresio Usuelli
Guido Barberis
Hardcover 288 pages
Libri Scheiwiller: 1989
A bit confusing that there are two books about Borsalino with the same name. The other one of course being the centennial book published in 1957. I feel somewhat ashamed that I haven't read this book yet, because it contains lots of information about the period from 1939 until 1979 in which Usuelli led the company. Well researched, with lots of factual data and footnotes it is certainly worth looking deeper into. My Italian is however virtually non-existent, so I'm missing too much of the information to fully appreciate the work that has been done here by the author. I'm working on a translation, but since this is a massive book, that is a lot of work. My copy is signed by a member of the Borsalino family, Giovanna Usuelli-Borsalino, which is a bonus. Highly recommended no matter what.
Guido Barberis
Hardcover 288 pages
Libri Scheiwiller: 1989
A bit confusing that there are two books about Borsalino with the same name. The other one of course being the centennial book published in 1957. I feel somewhat ashamed that I haven't read this book yet, because it contains lots of information about the period from 1939 until 1979 in which Usuelli led the company. Well researched, with lots of factual data and footnotes it is certainly worth looking deeper into. My Italian is however virtually non-existent, so I'm missing too much of the information to fully appreciate the work that has been done here by the author. I'm working on a translation, but since this is a massive book, that is a lot of work. My copy is signed by a member of the Borsalino family, Giovanna Usuelli-Borsalino, which is a bonus. Highly recommended no matter what.
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Stefan, Yes that is the case. I searched for the book online and I couldn't find any record of it.
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That explains it. Admirable that he published it anyway and preserved his knowledge that way.
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
"Experience with (Fur) Hair Quality" from "Animal Hair of the Hat Industry, Herbert Rosenthal, Saxon University of Applied Sciences Textile Industry, Chemnitz, 1929" from Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg, Germany collection. I have a photo copy of this book.
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933) / Fabrication of Women's and Men's Felt Hats, German Hat Makers News (1933). I have a hardcopy of this book.
Contents:
I. Fashion through the Ages
II. History of the Hat 17
III. Wool Scouring 27
IV. Wool Hat Fabrication 43
Wool Preparation 46
Wool Felting 51
Wool Twisting 53
Wool Carbonization 56
Fulling 57
V. The Pre-fabrication of Wool Hats 61
Grinding 63
Roughening 64
Turning 65
Stiffening 67
Molding and Decatizing 69
Mixing 71
Finishing 72
General Occurring Errors 78
VI. Fur Felt Hat Fabrication 81
Fur Cutting 83
Blowing 91
Fulling 92
Felting 93
Twisting and Fulling 95
Stock Felt Hoods 96
Page 7
VI. Finished Hat Production 99
Stiff Hat Production 101
Soft Felt Hat Production 104
Women's Hats and Hat Bodies 105
Plumes Fabrication 106
VIII. Article from the Practice - for Practice 109
Hat Dyeing of Yesterday and Today, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 111
Modern Dyeing Process for Wool and Fur Felt Hats, by Gustav R. Arnold 137
Wool, Properties and Processing in Hat Manufacture, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 149
On the Issue of Acceptability of Men's Hats, C.A.P. Pellaio 165
On the Issue of Light and Wear Resistance of Wool, Hair and Velour Hats, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 175
Hair - Velour - Real Velour - Prima Velour, by C.A.P. Pellaio 185
The Good Velour Hat of Hare Fur 186
Machining 187
Finishing 189
Quality Differences in Hare Fur 191
When Can a Velour Hat be Referred to as "Real"? 191
The Source 194
IX. Source directory 195
Page 8
Contents:
I. Fashion through the Ages
II. History of the Hat 17
III. Wool Scouring 27
IV. Wool Hat Fabrication 43
Wool Preparation 46
Wool Felting 51
Wool Twisting 53
Wool Carbonization 56
Fulling 57
V. The Pre-fabrication of Wool Hats 61
Grinding 63
Roughening 64
Turning 65
Stiffening 67
Molding and Decatizing 69
Mixing 71
Finishing 72
General Occurring Errors 78
VI. Fur Felt Hat Fabrication 81
Fur Cutting 83
Blowing 91
Fulling 92
Felting 93
Twisting and Fulling 95
Stock Felt Hoods 96
Page 7
VI. Finished Hat Production 99
Stiff Hat Production 101
Soft Felt Hat Production 104
Women's Hats and Hat Bodies 105
Plumes Fabrication 106
VIII. Article from the Practice - for Practice 109
Hat Dyeing of Yesterday and Today, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 111
Modern Dyeing Process for Wool and Fur Felt Hats, by Gustav R. Arnold 137
Wool, Properties and Processing in Hat Manufacture, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 149
On the Issue of Acceptability of Men's Hats, C.A.P. Pellaio 165
On the Issue of Light and Wear Resistance of Wool, Hair and Velour Hats, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 175
Hair - Velour - Real Velour - Prima Velour, by C.A.P. Pellaio 185
The Good Velour Hat of Hare Fur 186
Machining 187
Finishing 189
Quality Differences in Hare Fur 191
When Can a Velour Hat be Referred to as "Real"? 191
The Source 194
IX. Source directory 195
Page 8
Excellent additions, Steve. Look to be very interesting books, which has me on the hunt to find copies of them nowFabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933) / Fabrication of Women's and Men's Felt Hats, German Hat Makers News (1933). I have a hardcopy of this book.
Contents:
I. Fashion through the Ages
II. History of the Hat 17
III. Wool Scouring 27
IV. Wool Hat Fabrication 43
Wool Preparation 46
Wool Felting 51
Wool Twisting 53
Wool Carbonization 56
Fulling 57
V. The Pre-fabrication of Wool Hats 61
Grinding 63
Roughening 64
Turning 65
Stiffening 67
Molding and Decatizing 69
Mixing 71
Finishing 72
General Occurring Errors 78
VI. Fur Felt Hat Fabrication 81
Fur Cutting 83
Blowing 91
Fulling 92
Felting 93
Twisting and Fulling 95
Stock Felt Hoods 96
Page 7
VI. Finished Hat Production 99
Stiff Hat Production 101
Soft Felt Hat Production 104
Women's Hats and Hat Bodies 105
Plumes Fabrication 106
VIII. Article from the Practice - for Practice 109
Hat Dyeing of Yesterday and Today, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 111
Modern Dyeing Process for Wool and Fur Felt Hats, by Gustav R. Arnold 137
Wool, Properties and Processing in Hat Manufacture, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 149
On the Issue of Acceptability of Men's Hats, C.A.P. Pellaio 165
On the Issue of Light and Wear Resistance of Wool, Hair and Velour Hats, by Master Dyer Kurt Richter 175
Hair - Velour - Real Velour - Prima Velour, by C.A.P. Pellaio 185
The Good Velour Hat of Hare Fur 186
Machining 187
Finishing 189
Quality Differences in Hare Fur 191
When Can a Velour Hat be Referred to as "Real"? 191
The Source 194
IX. Source directory 195
Page 8
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Stefan, Thanks! There is updated version of this book from 1936 that I will post later.Excellent additions, Steve. Look to be very interesting books, which has me on the hunt to find copies of them now
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Der Filzhut, seine Geschichte und seine Herstellung. Hrsg.v.d. Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung (1936). This book is an update of Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933). I have a hardcopy of this book.
Contents
I. The Hatter, his wishes and concerns. Then and now 7
Hatter coat of arms from then 20
II. The hat and its history, by custodian Dr. Wolfgang Bruhn. 29
Symbolic and anecdotal about the hat . . . 31
History 33
Digression on the "Basel hat" 46
Hats from contemporary fashion journals from the Directoire (1793) to the Biedermeier (1832) ...... 52
Different forms of Parisian men's and women's hats . 57
III. The woolen hat and its manufacture 61
Wool washing 64
Flowing carbonization plant 74
Wool hat production 75
Grinding 76
Felting 80
Toggling and twisting 83
Carbonization 87
Molding 93
IV Mixing shop 105
Pressing and finishing 106
V. Hair hat manufacture 111
Finishing of the material 116
Different types of bating 117
Brushing and sorting the skins 119
The hair hat factory 122
Blowing 126
Raw fabrication 128
a) Folding 128 b) Felting 133 c) Fulling 135 d ) ejection 140
5
VI. The Finishing of the Hair Hat 143
The Finishing 146
The Die Drawing 147
Rolling and Briding 148
Touring 149 Raising 149
The Edge Processing 150
Ironing 151
Capelines and Ladies' Hats 152
Trimmings 153
Plumes Hat Production 153
VII. Specialist articles from practice — for practice . . 155
On the question of the wear ability of men's hats 157
Weatherproof hats through impregnation 165
On the question of the light and wear fastness of wool, hair and velour hats, by master dyer Kurt Richter 167 Hair velour i real velour, prime velour ... 175
The processing 176
Finishing 181
Differences in quality in rabbit hair 182
When can a velour hat be called "genuine"? • 183
Modern hat stump dyeing on mechanical apparatus • 185
Construction material of the dyeing apparatus 187
Removal of impurities . 187
Damage caused by free nitric acid 189
The wool, its properties and its processing in of hat manufacture, by master dyer Kurt Richter . . . 191
The hat dyeing of yesterday and today, by master dyer Kurt Richter 203
Modern dyeing processes in wool and hair felt dyeing, by Gustav R. Arnold 223
Dyeing 223
Dyeing loose wool for solid colors and melanges • 224
The dyeing of men's hat woolen hats • 227
The dyeing of soft men's hair r hats in the Labraz . • 229
Contributions to Modern Hat Dyeing, by Richard Haynn. 233
The shellac stick in the manufacture of felt hats . . . . . . 241
The shellac finish for women's braided hats made of crinol, straw, lite, cellophane, artificial silk, raffia, etc. . 247
VIII. Technical terms of the Hatter 249
Hat measure reduction table 279
IX. sources of supply 281
6
Contents
I. The Hatter, his wishes and concerns. Then and now 7
Hatter coat of arms from then 20
II. The hat and its history, by custodian Dr. Wolfgang Bruhn. 29
Symbolic and anecdotal about the hat . . . 31
History 33
Digression on the "Basel hat" 46
Hats from contemporary fashion journals from the Directoire (1793) to the Biedermeier (1832) ...... 52
Different forms of Parisian men's and women's hats . 57
III. The woolen hat and its manufacture 61
Wool washing 64
Flowing carbonization plant 74
Wool hat production 75
Grinding 76
Felting 80
Toggling and twisting 83
Carbonization 87
Molding 93
IV Mixing shop 105
Pressing and finishing 106
V. Hair hat manufacture 111
Finishing of the material 116
Different types of bating 117
Brushing and sorting the skins 119
The hair hat factory 122
Blowing 126
Raw fabrication 128
a) Folding 128 b) Felting 133 c) Fulling 135 d ) ejection 140
5
VI. The Finishing of the Hair Hat 143
The Finishing 146
The Die Drawing 147
Rolling and Briding 148
Touring 149 Raising 149
The Edge Processing 150
Ironing 151
Capelines and Ladies' Hats 152
Trimmings 153
Plumes Hat Production 153
VII. Specialist articles from practice — for practice . . 155
On the question of the wear ability of men's hats 157
Weatherproof hats through impregnation 165
On the question of the light and wear fastness of wool, hair and velour hats, by master dyer Kurt Richter 167 Hair velour i real velour, prime velour ... 175
The processing 176
Finishing 181
Differences in quality in rabbit hair 182
When can a velour hat be called "genuine"? • 183
Modern hat stump dyeing on mechanical apparatus • 185
Construction material of the dyeing apparatus 187
Removal of impurities . 187
Damage caused by free nitric acid 189
The wool, its properties and its processing in of hat manufacture, by master dyer Kurt Richter . . . 191
The hat dyeing of yesterday and today, by master dyer Kurt Richter 203
Modern dyeing processes in wool and hair felt dyeing, by Gustav R. Arnold 223
Dyeing 223
Dyeing loose wool for solid colors and melanges • 224
The dyeing of men's hat woolen hats • 227
The dyeing of soft men's hair r hats in the Labraz . • 229
Contributions to Modern Hat Dyeing, by Richard Haynn. 233
The shellac stick in the manufacture of felt hats . . . . . . 241
The shellac finish for women's braided hats made of crinol, straw, lite, cellophane, artificial silk, raffia, etc. . 247
VIII. Technical terms of the Hatter 249
Hat measure reduction table 279
IX. sources of supply 281
6
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Der Hut und seine Geschichte, Eine kulturgeschichtliche Monographie von Dr. 0. Timidior
Mit 85 Abbildungen (Zeichnungen von Karl Heidrich), Wien und Leipzig A. Hartleben's Verlag (Alle Rechte vorbehalten), (1913). Paul Nitzsche Wurzen Markt 12, 25 JUNI 1914. / The Hat and its History, A cultural-historical monograph by Dr. 0. Timidor, With 85 illustrations (drawings by Karl Heidrich), Vienna and Leipzig A. Hartleben's Verlag (All rights reserved), (1913). Paul Nitzsche Wurzen Markt 12, 25 JUNE 1914. I have a hard copy of this book.
Contents.
Foreword III Contents IV Bibliography VI Linguistics
About the word "hat" 1
The manufacture of the hat 4
The hatter 18
The history of the hat 33
The top hat 58
The meaning of the hat 67
Hat and politics 78
Hat and character 83
Hat and hygiene 92
The women's hat 97
The hat decoration 108
The hat in caricatures 118
The hat in superstition, folk customs and customs 124
The hat of quadrupeds 130
The hat in proverbs and sayings 134
The hat in song and in literature 136
Hat poetry 138
The story of the hat 138
Fashion 140
Taking off the hat 140
The new hat 141
Eduard() and his hat 143
My old hat 143
The hat 145
Cheerful things about the hat 147
The lost straw hat 147
Advice on buying a hat, compiled by the English comic "Punch" 148
Not worth mentioning 148
The minister's hat 149
IV
Düsseldorfer Mänzkes 150
Old and new hat 151
All sorts of hats 152
The Girardi hat 152
Richard Wagner's last hat 153
The Napoleon hat 153
"Always with a hat and right on the dam!" 155
The hat in Shakespeare's works 155
Philistines 156
The hat as a term for "the man" 156
Hat stories 156
Why the fez has no umbrella 159
Kiss me quick 160
V
Mit 85 Abbildungen (Zeichnungen von Karl Heidrich), Wien und Leipzig A. Hartleben's Verlag (Alle Rechte vorbehalten), (1913). Paul Nitzsche Wurzen Markt 12, 25 JUNI 1914. / The Hat and its History, A cultural-historical monograph by Dr. 0. Timidor, With 85 illustrations (drawings by Karl Heidrich), Vienna and Leipzig A. Hartleben's Verlag (All rights reserved), (1913). Paul Nitzsche Wurzen Markt 12, 25 JUNE 1914. I have a hard copy of this book.
Contents.
Foreword III Contents IV Bibliography VI Linguistics
About the word "hat" 1
The manufacture of the hat 4
The hatter 18
The history of the hat 33
The top hat 58
The meaning of the hat 67
Hat and politics 78
Hat and character 83
Hat and hygiene 92
The women's hat 97
The hat decoration 108
The hat in caricatures 118
The hat in superstition, folk customs and customs 124
The hat of quadrupeds 130
The hat in proverbs and sayings 134
The hat in song and in literature 136
Hat poetry 138
The story of the hat 138
Fashion 140
Taking off the hat 140
The new hat 141
Eduard() and his hat 143
My old hat 143
The hat 145
Cheerful things about the hat 147
The lost straw hat 147
Advice on buying a hat, compiled by the English comic "Punch" 148
Not worth mentioning 148
The minister's hat 149
IV
Düsseldorfer Mänzkes 150
Old and new hat 151
All sorts of hats 152
The Girardi hat 152
Richard Wagner's last hat 153
The Napoleon hat 153
"Always with a hat and right on the dam!" 155
The hat in Shakespeare's works 155
Philistines 156
The hat as a term for "the man" 156
Hat stories 156
Why the fez has no umbrella 159
Kiss me quick 160
V
Last edited:
More interesting additions, Steve. Hard to find most likely, but I'll add them my list anywayDer Hut und seine Geschichte, Eine kulturgeschichtliche Monographie von Dr. 0. Timidior
Mit 85 Abbildungen (Zeichnungen von Karl Heidrich), Wien und Leipzig A. Hartleben's Verlag (Alle Rechte vorbehalten), (1913). Paul Nitzsche Wurzen Markt 12, 25 JUNI 1914. / The Hat and its History, A cultural-historical monograph by Dr. 0. Timidor, With 85 illustrations (drawings by Karl Heidrich), Vienna and Leipzig A. Hartleben's Verlag (All rights reserved), (1913). Paul Nitzsche Wurzen Markt 12, 25 JUNE 1914. I have a hard copy of this book.
Contents.
Foreword III Contents IV Bibliography VI Linguistics
About the word "hat" 1
The manufacture of the hat 4
The hatter 18
The history of the hat 33
The top hat 58
The meaning of the hat 67
Hat and politics 78
Hat and character 83
Hat and hygiene 92
The women's hat 97
The hat decoration 108
The hat in caricatures 118
The hat in superstition, folk customs and customs 124
The hat of quadrupeds 130
The hat in proverbs and sayings 134
The hat in song and in literature 136
Hat poetry 138
The story of the hat 138
Fashion 140
Taking off the hat 140
The new hat 141
Eduard() and his hat 143
My old hat 143
The hat 145
Cheerful things about the hat 147
The lost straw hat 147
Advice on buying a hat, compiled by the English comic "Punch" 148
Not worth mentioning 148
The minister's hat 149
IV
Düsseldorfer Mänzkes 150
Old and new hat 151
All sorts of hats 152
The Girardi hat 152
Richard Wagner's last hat 153
The Napoleon hat 153
"Always with a hat and right on the dam!" 155
The hat in Shakespeare's works 155
Philistines 156
The hat as a term for "the man" 156
Hat stories 156
Why the fez has no umbrella 159
Kiss me quick 160
V
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Stefan, Thank you! One day I will digitize and translate.More interesting additions, Steve. Hard to find most likely, but I'll add them my list anyway
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Omaggio Al Cappello / Tribute To The Hat, Borsalino 1857 - 1957, Alessandria (English 1st Edition). I know this has already been posted but this the First Edition English version and the entire book is posted on my website. I have a hardcopy of this book. I also have a German and Italian version.
Omaggio Al Cappello / Tribute To The Hat, Borsalino 1857 - 1957, Alessandria (English 1st Edition), Entire Book.
Omaggio Al Cappello / Tribute To The Hat, Borsalino 1857 - 1957, Alessandria (English 1st Edition), Entire Book.
- Messages
- 17,467
- Location
- Maryland
Giuseppe Borsalino 1834 - 1934 from the from the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg , Germany collection. The entire book is posted on my website with rough translation. I also have a hardcopy of this book.
My first edition of this book. It's bound in leather and has original photo prints.
Giuseppe Borsalino 1834 - 1934. Entire book including rough translation.
My first edition of this book. It's bound in leather and has original photo prints.
Giuseppe Borsalino 1834 - 1934. Entire book including rough translation.
