Boater faction!

[steur]

With all the hats I collected there was not a single boater among them. It's not a style I really care for nor am I likely to wear one, and The Netherlands is not exactly a straw hat country. But I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making them and recently I was able to find one in my size (and cheap).
I think it was sold through Luton, England based on the insides, but I'm not sure it was actually manufactured there, based on the label. Not a high end one I think; there's no Bon Ton Ivy sweatband (which is of low quality) and the ribbon is very plain.
I still needed one for the collection and now I have one.

 

[Steve1857]

Nice looking solid weave pattern, Stefan. Every collection should have a Boater.
Congrats on yours.

With all the hats I collected there was not a single boater among them. It's not a style I really care for nor am I likely to wear one, and The Netherlands is not exactly a straw hat country. But I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making them and recently I was able to find one in my size (and cheap).
I think it was sold through Luton, England based on the insides, but I'm not sure it was actually manufactured there, based on the label. Not a high end one I think; there's no Bon Ton Ivy sweatband (which is of low quality) and the ribbon is very plain.
I still needed one for the collection and now I have one.
View attachment 269053 View attachment 269059 View attachment 269052 View attachment 269054 View attachment 269055 View attachment 269056 View attachment 269057 View attachment 269058

 

[steur]

Nice looking solid weave pattern, Stefan. Every collection should have a Boater.
Congrats on yours.

Thank you, Steve. It did feel like I was missing something.

 

[Steve1857]

Stefan, as you know, Luton was indeed the straw hat making centre of England for a couple of centuries. It's hay day being the mid 1800s to just before WWII. It's difficult to place where Luton hats ended up name wise or shop wise. Their ubiquity was indeed ubiquitous, but sadly almost nameless.

Yours is more than likely of Luton manufacture.

I have, what I believe to be, a very early 1900s boater. It's speckled weave is common for that era.

Sadly, it's missing its sweatband. However, its pillow showing the shop it was sold in is intact.

With all the hats I collected there was not a single boater among them. It's not a style I really care for nor am I likely to wear one, and The Netherlands is not exactly a straw hat country. But I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making them and recently I was able to find one in my size (and cheap).
I think it was sold through Luton, England based on the insides, but I'm not sure it was actually manufactured there, based on the label. Not a high end one I think; there's no Bon Ton Ivy sweatband (which is of low quality) and the ribbon is very plain.
I still needed one for the collection and now I have one.
View attachment 269053 View attachment 269059 View attachment 269052 View attachment 269054 View attachment 269055 View attachment 269056 View attachment 269057 View attachment 269058

With all the hats I collected there was not a single boater among them. It's not a style I really care for nor am I likely to wear one, and The Netherlands is not exactly a straw hat country. But I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making them and recently I was able to find one in my size (and cheap).
I think it was sold through Luton, England based on the insides, but I'm not sure it was actually manufactured there, based on the label. Not a high end one I think; there's no Bon Ton Ivy sweatband (which is of low quality) and the ribbon is very plain.
I still needed one for the collection and now I have one.
View attachment 269053 View attachment 269059 View attachment 269052 View attachment 269054 View attachment 269055 View attachment 269056 View attachment 269057 View attachment 269058

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Western Straw Works boater, possibly late 1800s:

Specs:

3-1/2" Crown
2" Brim
2-1/4" Ribbon
177g Weight​

The spiral weave on the crown and contrasting weave on the brim are beautifully done. The straw itself is still quite flexible, which is good because the seller shipped it in a box one size too small (even though I included the standard preemptive note thanking the seller in advance for carefully packaging this great vintage hat). As soon as the box arrived I knew there was going to be a problem. The hat arrived on edge with the brim slightly flexed so as to fit in the box. The result is a slight asymmetry which hopefully will settle over time. Even with the apparent pliability I hesitate to try to manipulate the straw too much for fear of any damage.

The crown liner is some type of paper I believe. It sort of reminds me of waxed paper or kraft paper. It does have a finely ribbed texture with embossed lions as seen in the closeup of the crest. The sweat is devoid of any markings other than something hand written. It is neither brittle nor supple, so I proceeded with caution to check for anything on the back side with the aid of a telescopic inspection mirror. No other tags or markings were found.

To my knowledge one other example from this maker exists, posted some years ago by @Joshbru3:

Note the similar offset clocking of the sweatband seam.


See the next post for some historical records of Western Straw Works.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Looking through old San Francisco directory records the first mention of Western Straw Works is in 1877, proprietor Lorenzo Lapham:

In 1887 the proprietor was listed as Thomas Kortick:

The store was a victim of theft in 1895:

The name seems to have been phased out around 1897/98 and changed to Thomas Kortick Straw Works:

The last record for Thomas Kortick Straw Works was in 1905:

The business may have been a casualty of the great earthquake and fire of 1906. St. Patrick's church was located at 756 Mission, which would have placed it across from Kortick's at 755 Mission:

In later years Thomas Kortick's profession is listed as lather from 1910-1925, and he died in 1935.


Old records for San Francisco are relatively few and far between, many having been destroyed themselves in the natural disaster. I wish I could have found more as this hat is now probably the most interesting piece in my collection.

 

[steur]

Stefan, as you know, Luton was indeed the straw hat making centre of England for a couple of centuries. It's hay day being the mid 1800s to just before WWII. It's difficult to place where Luton hats ended up name wise or shop wise. Their ubiquity was indeed ubiquitous, but sadly almost nameless.

Yours is more than likely of Luton manufacture.

I have, what I believe to be, a very early 1900s boater. It's speckled weave is common for that era.

Sadly, it's missing its sweatband. However, its pillow showing the shop it was sold in is intact. View attachment 269093
View attachment 269094 View attachment 269095

Seem to have missed this post for some reason. Luton was strawopolis and they did produce masses of hats there, but they were also the center of trade for hats made elsewhere, so in the end impossible to day for certain. I'll take it for being English made though, why not?

 

[steur]

Looking through old San Francisco directory records the first mention of Western Straw Works is in 1877, proprietor Lorenzo Lapham:
View attachment 307386

In 1887 the proprietor was listed as Thomas Kortick:
View attachment 307387

The store was a victim of theft in 1895:
View attachment 307388

The name seems to have been phased out around 1897/98 and changed to Thomas Kortick Straw Works:
View attachment 307389 View attachment 307390

The last record for Thomas Kortick Straw Works was in 1905:
View attachment 307391

The business may have been a casualty of the great earthquake and fire of 1906. St. Patrick's church was located at 756 Mission, which would have placed it across from Kortick's at 755 Mission:
View attachment 307392 View attachment 307393

In later years Thomas Kortick's profession is listed as lather from 1910-1925, and he died in 1935.


Old records for San Francisco are relatively few and far between, many having been destroyed themselves in the natural disaster. I wish I could have found more as this hat is now probably the most interesting piece in my collection.

Great find and wonderful story, Jonathan. Congrats.

 

[BobHufford]

Western Straw Works boater, possibly late 1800s

Beautiful hat Jonathan! Nice sleuthing as well. Kudos!

 

[Steve1857]

Great find, Jonathan. Thanks for sharing the history of the maker, too.

Hope it soon gets its shape back.

Looking through old San Francisco directory records the first mention of Western Straw Works is in 1877, proprietor Lorenzo Lapham:
View attachment 307386

In 1887 the proprietor was listed as Thomas Kortick:
View attachment 307387

The store was a victim of theft in 1895:
View attachment 307388

The name seems to have been phased out around 1897/98 and changed to Thomas Kortick Straw Works:
View attachment 307389 View attachment 307390

The last record for Thomas Kortick Straw Works was in 1905:
View attachment 307391

The business may have been a casualty of the great earthquake and fire of 1906. St. Patrick's church was located at 756 Mission, which would have placed it across from Kortick's at 755 Mission:
View attachment 307392 View attachment 307393

In later years Thomas Kortick's profession is listed as lather from 1910-1925, and he died in 1935.


Old records for San Francisco are relatively few and far between, many having been destroyed themselves in the natural disaster. I wish I could have found more as this hat is now probably the most interesting piece in my collection.

 

[JJ Katz]

A very belated post but one that, hopefully, will be of some interest to this community.
Last September, during a brief respite from all the pandemic-related lockdowns, I organized teh (1st) Pukka Picnic which was dedicated to Bubbly, Boaters and Belles.
Some images for you:

 

[JJ Katz]

Some more (I do hope these are not redundant or inappropriate)

 

[Steve1857]

What a splendid looking get together. I sincerely hope you're all able to hold the 2nd Pukka Picnic later this year.

Might I ask, where was it held?

Some more (I do hope these are not redundant or inappropriate)

View attachment 308313 View attachment 308314 View attachment 308315 View attachment 308316

 

[JJ Katz]

What a splendid looking get together. I sincerely hope you're all able to hold the 2nd Pukka Picnic later this year.

Might I ask, where was it held?

The Pukka Picnic was held in Holland Park, London.

Definitely planning to hold another, next September, assuming epidemic conditions allow it.

 

[Steve1857]

I truly hope they do and that you can hold the 2nd annual Pukka Picnic.

If not, hold it digitally and invite some of your FL friends along

The Pukka Picnic was held in Holland Park, London.

Definitely planning to hold another, next September, assuming epidemic conditions allow it.

 

[steur]

Some more (I do hope these are not redundant or inappropriate)

View attachment 308313 View attachment 308314 View attachment 308315 View attachment 308316

A splendid gathering of nicely outfitted and hatted (!) ladies and gentlemen. Well done!

 

[steur]

Godet boater or canotier as the French would say. Size 55 or 54, so alas too small for me. Well made hat and a bon-ton ivy sweatband and very wide ribbon. It seems to have quite a bit of age to it as well.

We can get a glimpse of the shop in the upper right corner of this picture from around 1905.

 

[Steve1857]

That is such a wonderful Boater, Stefan. I'm sure there are many of us cursing that it's not our size.

Godet boater or canotier as the French would say. Size 55 or 54, so alas too small for me. Well made hat and a bon-ton ivy sweatband and very wide ribbon. It seems to have quite a bit of age to it as well.

We can get a glimpse of the shop in the upper right corner of this picture from around 1905.

 

[Steve1857]

I'm pleased I picked up this one via Facebook Market Place. A W. Wood & Co of Oxford Street Boater, sold at Gustav Pragner's shop in Copenhagen. As yet, I haven't been able to find any information about these two establishments.

Interestingly, the label is in Italian, so maybe it was made in Italy and not England. The size label showing centimetre, English, and punti sizes might also suggest it's not of English manufacture.

It's in very good condition for its age, which I believe is pre-war. The leather sweatband is still quite supple, though it does have a tear in it. It's stitched to the inside in quite an interesting way as can be seen from the photos.
The liner is also interesting. Not sure if it's vellum or some kind of rice paper.

This one will certainly get some head time once the summer hits us

 

[BobHufford]

The leather sweatband is still quite supple, though it does have a tear in it. It's stitched to the inside in quite an interesting way as can be seen from the photos.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/bon-ton-ivy-sweatbands-for-boaters-and-derbies.45190/

What is the crown height on that one Steve? It looks great on you.