Black Suit

[Marc Chevalier]

The other question is era: do they all seem to date from the 1930s?

No. The ones I've seen date from around the 1920s to the 1960s.

 

[LuckyKat]

I own 3 black vintage suits, one is American from the 40s, one is Swedish from the 40s, and I just picked up a 40s suit on eBay from the 40s possibly 50s.
The thing is black is a lot less common in the states than the other colors. I've been collecting for over 10 years & I've only ever seen a handful of black suits...but, in Europe it was much more prominent; in old pictures & in vintage stores today.
A black suit can be worn on any occasion, it's how you sccessorize it that determines the appropriateness to the situation.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I found this picture in my scans (1930). It shows a black afternoon/evening suit on the left.I try to translate the text.

Singlebreasted afternoon and evening suit made from black fabric that also can show subtle pinstripes (see fabric sample). It is worn with a doublebreasted bright or dark waistcoat, grey tie or black/white cravat (?). This suit can replace the cutaway and fits occasions in the afternoon or evening and also for dancing. With lighter striped trousers it is suitable for promenade, dinner or the club. For the latter two it has to be worn with a black bowtie or cravat together with a white shirt and a wing collar. In the picture you can see a commendable collar with black bowtie like it would be worn with a tuxedo (black tie). Patent leather shoes complete the correct way to wear this suit. On the street it can be worn with a chesterfield coat.

 

[Two Types]

I found this picture in my scans (1930). It shows a black afternoon/evening suit on the left.I try to translate the text.

I found this very interesting. On the 'Show us your British suits' thread there was a discussion over a black suit I own which everyone agreed was French or German. It has the features seen on a dinner suit (peaked lapels and the black barathea cloth) and the consensus was that it was most likely a uniform (for waiters, hotel staff or musicians) and would have dated from the 1930s/1940s. The jacket was considered by some to appear to be a stroller jacket.

However, this scan shows that in Germany there was a trend for black suits that were designed to be similar to evening suits but which were less formal. Also, that the jacket could alternatively be worn with striped trousers for the stroller look. This opens the possibility that my suit is an example of the style you have posted.

Most interesting, thanks for posting this. It opens up a further area of knowledge.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Yes. In a german forum they also told me it was less common and maybe a suit only for funerals. Most collectors would pass up on them. There are quite some black suits in the antique stores left.
My guess is that most of them did read suit-ettiquette books that are based on the situation in the UK. The etiquette on the continent may have been different even if british tailoring was a big influence. [huh]


PS: This also looks like a black suit for me and it is not even german.

 

[Chrome]

I found this picture in my scans (1930). It shows a black afternoon/evening suit on the left.I try to translate the text.

Nice scan and left fabric is quite similar to my trousers from 1932

Your translation indirectly says that it was ok to use striped jacket with lighter colored trousers..

 

[Chrome]

Here is one of my black suits, I have few quite fitting ones and few that would need bit more editing As you can see in this one cut is similar to dinner jacket (single button and wide sharp ending lapels). And known history between Finland and Germany I think our suit "fashions" and habits were same. I have book that differiates black suit as a separate festive suit between more formal day/evening dress and dark suit. It was nicknamed roughly countryside formal wear. That is why it is tailored to look like DJ without satin lapel finish, for wider usage.

I use it as normal suit jacket when not using my two or tree button jackets like in pic below..I rarely use black suit (or any suit).

As for evidence of common use is this label:

Three button peak lapel, not the label to use in formal wear.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Your translation indirectly says that it was ok to use striped jacket with lighter colored trousers..

I am not sure... I think it's a black jacket with lighter colored (and striped) trousers and not the other way round.

Good looking suit on the pictures. I like it. :eusa_clap

 

[avedwards]

That's a really nice suit. I'd wear it with a dove grey waistcoat for a smart look. And the jacket is ideal as a stroller jacket of course.

I am not sure... I think it's a black jacket with lighter colored (and striped) trousers and not the other way round.

That's what I read too, which would make sense as that would be a stroller.

I have a DB flannel suit that's nearly black which I quite like as it can be dressed up with a white shirt and grey tie or dressed down with an open collared red or grey shirt. It's definitely a very versatile colour for a suit.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Another proof for black suits. 1931

 

[Two Types]

Any chance of a translation?

 

[Gin&Tonics]

One of my favourite looks is a black suit, stark white shirt with perhaps a stripe, tan waistcoat, and a nice deep red tie and complimentary pocket square. Black and red offset each other beautifully and make for a very dramatic look. I used to have a double breasted black wool suit that I absolutely loved. I grew out of it in my late 20's much to my shock and dismay.

Here's a shot of me and the missus on our 5th anniversary, me wearing a black tonal stripe suit with peak lapels. I no longer own the suit, which is a bit of a long story, but I don't think I look very funereal. I would have worn my homburg, but alas the wifey hasn't gotten used to that one yet ^.^

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Any chance of a translation?

Yes, sorry. I was in a hurry.

The black suit (jacket) is the most practical choice for small afternoon and evening events. The jacket is done with peaked lapels and only moderate waist surpression. Compared to black tie (tuxedo) the waistcoat is buttoned rather high and made like a normal (lined) waistcoat. (I can't find the exact translation of "Stehbrustweste") It is worn with trousers of a moderate width and without cuffs.

 

[Two Types]

Thanks.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

No problem. I think it is another indication in the line of "poor mans tuxedo" or sunday suit. It would also explain why there are so many left. They did save them for special occasions. They are also more versatile than black tie because you could wear them earlier and didn't have to change in the evening?
Last month a german friend bought a suit like this on ebay and the seller told it was the wedding suit of her father in the 30s. It has cuffs though.

 

[Two Types]

No problem. I think it is another indication in the line of "poor mans tuxedo" or sunday suit. It would also explain why there are so many left. They did save them for special occasions. They are also more versatile than black tie because you could wear them earlier and didn't have to change in the evening?
Last month a german friend bought a suit like this on ebay and the seller told it was the wedding suit of her father in the 30s. It has cuffs though.

I think the description 'Nachmitte und Abend' ('afternoon and evening' for those - like myself - who don't speak German) is a perfect description. From now on, I will be using that to describe any plain black, peaked lapel German suit of the mid 20th century.

 

[herringbonekid]

this is a European 'evening and afternoon' jacket. most likely German circa '28-'31. it has the most nipped-in waist of any jacket i own. it looks more pronounced when on.
the shoulders are virtually unpadded.

the finish is quite hammer and tongs (which i like):

lapel hole:

 

[Two Types]

A beautiful jacket. I don't normally like two-button jackets, but one has to make an exception for that cut.

 

[summermusics]

I agree with Max Flash.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I agree with Max Flash.

From the first page?

Don't ever buy black unless it is a dinner jacket or a morning coat. Get a dark charcoal instead - it will always be appropriate for all suit-wearing occasions and can be dressed to be more lively (for weddings, etc.), more business-like (for interviews, etc.) or more sombre (for funerals), depending in each case on the shirt and tie you combine it with.

If this is your only suit (for the time-being), I would get a simple cloth with no pattern or stripe. As you increase the number of suits in your wardrobe, you can always branch out.

Yes, for modern suits and everyday wear he has a point. But finding the many black 30s suits in germany often makes you wonder if they can be worn. And I think the can.
Gene, did your cinetex suit arrive? I rember you ordered a black peak lapel suit from them a while ago..