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Black suit with coloured waist coats

jaw1993

New in Town
Messages
13
Location
South West, England
Hi,

I hope that I have put this in the right section of the forum and if not please feel free to move it.

As Im starting back at school in two weeks I thought it was about time that I put some thought into what I was wearing and Im wanting to dress smartly every day right from the start.

I was thinking of wearing a plain black suit, with either a dark blue, charcol grey, mid blue and navy bue waist coat along with a long sleve white shirt and probably a black tie and either a dark grey or brown hat, my reasoning is that black goes with more or less anything and I can always change my suit to my grey one if I need to, or change my ties.

For when it gets cold I have a dark grey overcoat, or a navy blue almost black colour Italian army overcoat which is heavy and really warm.

I hoped this has made sense, and if people could possibly give me their opinions I would really appreciate it. I'll try to put up some photos when I get back from holiday.

Thanks
 

J.J. Gittes

A-List Customer
Messages
375
Location
Chinatown
Why not mix vests with a suit? Lane Pryce in Mad Men does it.
imgres

I think its a very good look if pulled off correctly. Try it out.
 

George A.Bailey

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
England.
I've always considered wearing an odd waistcoast with a black suit, the look does sound quite appealing. If one day I were to try this out, I would avoid colours that look too close to the suit I'm wearing.

You mentioned wearing a dark blue or charcoal grey waistcoat with a black suit, whilst I believe this is stylistically correct, I think due to the rarity of odd-waistcoats in the modern world, it could possibly look as though you were trying to pass off your dark waistcoat as a matching three-piece suit, just a thought.

Personally, though, I do believe this would look rather suave, although I would try a more lighter coloured waistcoat, maybe a red or orange.
 

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
This is something I have seen done before. A college professor was wearing a black suit, white dress shirt, conservative tie, and a lighter blue waistcoat. It looked convincing to me.
 

George A.Bailey

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
England.
Black suit, black tie, white shirt, and a brightly colored brocade waistcoat. The first thing that comes to mind, is the Old West gunslinger/riverboat gambler look. (think Kurt Russel, and Sam Elliott, in Tombstone)

No, I try to look more along the lines of the father of Sean Connery's character (far right, Dark Yellow waistcoat) in Alfred Hitchcock's Marnie

4904611930_a77f626127.jpg


And this painting of Hugo Reisinger (White waistcoat)

4904026681_556e6fa647.jpg
 

jaw1993

New in Town
Messages
13
Location
South West, England
Hi

My waistcoat arrived today and its closer to a really light red almost salmon pink colour, mixed with blacks and gold swirls and it looks ok in my opinion, and Ive ordered some more brightly coloured wasitcoats and with hindsight Ive decided not bother with the tie all the time.
 

George A.Bailey

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
England.
jaw1993 said:
Hi

My waistcoat arrived today and its closer to a really light red almost salmon pink colour, mixed with blacks and gold swirls and it looks ok in my opinion, and Ive ordered some more brightly coloured wasitcoats and with hindsight Ive decided not bother with the tie all the time.

Quite an unusual design, though I do remember seeing quite a few patterned silk waistcoasts at a wedding I was at a few years back. Regarding the absense of a tie, I don't think I've ever seen somebody wearing a waistcoat whilst tie-less, but I suppose it could be pulled off if it not worn with a jacket.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,116
Location
London, UK
It's a great look, IMO. The one thing to bear in mind is that while you should always aim to coordinate, of course, make sure there is sufficient contrast between suit and waistcoat so that it doesn't look as if you're trying to pass off an almost-match as part of a three piece. Same idea as not wearing navy trews with a navy pinstripe blazer, for instance.
 

Lone_Ranger

Practically Family
Messages
500
Location
Central, PA
George A.Bailey said:
No, I try to look more along the lines of the father of Sean Connery's character (far right, Dark Yellow waistcoat) in Alfred Hitchcock's Marnie

4904611930_a77f626127.jpg

The contrasting waistcoat looks really good, with a tweed jacket or suit.

Is it possible that's a cardigan sweater? I guess, that there really wouldn't be much difference between a sleeveless cardigan sweater, and a waistcoat.

When I had to wear a jacket every day, I had a couple of cardigan sweaters. I was able to wear my tweed jacket in the winter months, and if I switched around the shirt, sweater, and tie combination, it didn't look like I was wearing the same thing every day.
 

Torpedo

One Too Many
Messages
1,332
Location
Barcelona (Spain)
Hello,

I do combine odd vests with suits, and odd vests with odd trousers and jacket, too (that is, all three different). I find it looks fine.

I normally avoid putting more than one pattern in the mix; not that it can not be done, but because I will also add a tie or bowtie (almost all of them being patterned) and often a square pocket, I only want to mix patterns so far.

As Edward has mentioned, it is important to provide a minimum degree of contrast.

The other two possible combinations I have doubts about, although I have seen it done: trousers and vest of the same suit, combined with and odd coat. Is that considered a faux pas? And jacket with vest in the same pattern, plus odd trousers. This one looks definitely "off" for me.

What do you think of this?
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
Torpedo said:
Hello,


The other two possible combinations I have doubts about, although I have seen it done: trousers and vest of the same suit, combined with and odd coat. Is that considered a faux pas? And jacket with vest in the same pattern, plus odd trousers. This one looks definitely "off" for me.

I wouldn't consider either a faux pas. To my knowledge both combinations were worn in the Victorian and to a lesser extent Edwardian periods. Personally i think those combinations only look good when done with subdued patterns and colours. Here is an example of a nice looking ensemble featuring matching coat and vest, but different colour trousers:

Pearce_Bartlett.jpg



And, while i am at it, here are two all odd outfits:

Du_Maurier_Spy.jpg


Tissot_self_detail.jpg
 

George A.Bailey

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
England.
Lone_Ranger said:
Is it possible that's a cardigan sweater? I guess, that there really wouldn't be much difference between a sleeveless cardigan sweater, and a waistcoat.

Possibly. Though I don't think wearing cardigans with suits was (or is) very common, almost non-existant. It's definetely much more common for them to be seen with sport jackets and other smart-casual wear, as cardigan's certainly don't fall into the informal dress code.

The only difference between waistcoats and sleeveless cardigan's I can see is the texture of the fabric (cardigan's being knitted) and the absense of lining and a buckle which is nearly always seen on a waistcoat, yet never on a cardigan.
 

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