BK Durable "The Wild One" One Star Double Rider

[Monitor]

I will say this, for as much mileage as Schott gets out of claiming that Brando was wearing one of their jackets, you'd think they would come out with one that was closer to the one in the movie.

Yeah, for sure. Even when they try to make it look more like the movie jacket, they fail. The 618 cut is already similar, all they need to do is work on the details but it's as if they're deliberately trying to not make it screen accurate.

Also, we keep forgetting Vanson did a pretty cool version, too.

 

[Carlos840]

They know it'll sell. Quality, material, etc. doesn't matter at all at this point. Thing is, and I'm merely speculating here but the way I see it, most people consider standard BK's pricing to fall in the insane category, especially when it comes to a straightforward Perfecto as with just a tiny bit of searching, you can score a really great jacket for very little money, so people who are reluctant to pay $800 or whatever, definitely won't buy this jacket.

But there are guys who want it & can afford it and BK knows this. They're willing to pay whatever the cost to get exactly what they want, which in this case would be a very accurate reproduction of The Wild One jacket. It is, after all, the most significant leather jacket in the world (even more so than the A2). And I get that though at this point in life, I would NEVER pay that kinda money for it as I know it won't do nothing more that my ol' Excelled wont. But that's me.

Anyway, that's what BK's going for. They know that everyone who can afford this jacket will pay for it, regardless of the price. I'm willing to bet that any other price tag would have marginal effect on the number of sales they've had on this jacket so far, as I don't believe that the three grand price-tag have alienated a single potential buyer.
People might complain a bit more but ultimately, having no alternative, if you want this jacket, you're going to dish out the amount of money BK's asking for it.

What I've been saying before, paying anything past $500 mark for a leather jacket is insane but that's what were here for. Like you yourself said, it's got nothing to do with any measurable attribute of the product anymore.

What i meant is i would not buy a 2000 dollar jacket from a company that makes 700 dollar jackets and is unable to show why the 2000 dollar jacket is worth more.
I would buy a 2000 dollar jacket from a company that sells a bunch of other 2000 dollar jackets if i know i am getting something that in my mind is worth the money.

If i was a fan of that movie and i had 2000 dollars to spend on a repro, why would i buy the BK over the Toys mcCoys?
The only thing i can think of is the ability to get custom measurements, but i don't think it is worth a the asking price.

 

[navetsea]

sorry it is not my intention to shit on the movie nor the jacket, the jacket is cool enough , I like other MB movies I watched, just this particular movie I sat through this morning was underwhelming to me both visually and story wise personally just to me. I like Badlands and type2 jacket worn there by martin sheen was cool, peter fonda's america jacket was also cool together with the movie.. I watched this movie with that same expectation... and throughout the movie I can't even understand the obsession he has with that trinket trophy... and how not wild he is... I don't believe he even carry a brass knuckle let alone knife or gun, he just ran around town being chased by a mob of townies old people and fatsos carrying sticks until he got to his bike and then he cried.

 

[marker2037]

What i meant is i would not buy a 2000 dollar jacket from a company that makes 700 dollar jackets and is unable to show why the 2000 dollar jacket is worth more.
I would buy a 2000 dollar jacket from a company that sells a bunch of other 2000 dollar jackets if i know i am getting something that in my mind is worth the money.

If i was a fan of that movie and i had 2000 dollars to spend on a repro, why would i buy the BK over the Toys mcCoys?
The only thing i can think of is the ability to get custom measurements, but i don't think it is worth a the asking price.

I agree about that price increase, but I would say that I would certainly rather have the ability to get custom measurements vs a stock Japanese size made for Japanese bodies if the asking prices are near/the same.

 

[Edward]

I will say this, for as much mileage as Schott gets out of claiming that Brando was wearing one of their jackets, you'd think they would come out with one that was closer to the one in the movie.

Funny, innit? You'd think it would be a no-brainer for them.

Yeah, for sure. Even when they try to make it look more like the movie jacket, they fail. The 618 cut is already similar, all they need to do is work on the details but it's as if they're deliberately trying to not make it screen accurate.

Also, we keep forgetting Vanson did a pretty cool version, too.

May depend which 618 cut you have... mine is some time post 1980s, and so it's the same very boxy fit as the 118, save for a different size label. The Aero take on the Perfecto type is the right fit as Brand wore it, with the really tight waist and much more room in the chest. I think Vanson did it well too based on the photos I've seen. They certainly nailed the most obvious detail, that looooong zip on the arm.

sorry it is not my intention to shit on the movie nor the jacket, the jacket is cool enough , I like other MB movies I watched, just this particular movie I sat through this morning was underwhelming to me both visually and story wise personally just to me. I like Badlands and type2 jacket worn there by martin sheen was cool, peter fonda's america jacket was also cool together with the movie.. I watched this movie with that same expectation... and throughout the movie I can't even understand the obsession he has with that trinket trophy... and how not wild he is... I don't believe he even carry a brass knuckle let alone knife or gun, he just ran around town being chased by a mob of townies old people and fatsos carrying sticks until he got to his bike and then he cried.

Sort of the point, though: he's just a guy having fun, they were a motorcycle club that were shunned by society, not the other way around. The real troublemakers were the townies who, in their fear of "different", ultimately cause the accident that has a fatal result for an innocent bystander. The trophy is kind of a joke: it's from the scene early on where the Races (read: AMA) official gives them short shrift, and one of the other BRMC members pinches it and gives it to Johnny - the subtext: we're just as good as them, we deserve a trophy even if they don't want us in their poxy races. The film, in its tameness, is actually a lot closer to what really happened in Hollister.

Easy Rider was the one I could never warm to - it's just a bunch of tedious hippies disappearing up their own backsides on acid in a graveyard to me. Jack Nicholson was good in it, though. Interesting role. For a road movie of that period, I much preferred Vanishing Point.

 

[dmoser1978]

Ok, I decided to do a measure and compare of various Wild One jackets I have to see how they stack up. I pulled the trigger on a Toys McCoy Double Rider when they were announced and I'm finally able to do a review on it. I've got an original Durable that was restored by Dena Hamilton, I've got a Bill Kelso Wild One that was given to me by BK for loaning them my original, I've got the Toys McCoy and I ordered two Schott 618s to compare the sizes. All the jackets are labeled size 40 except for one Schott that is a 42.

First thing's first, the TM jacket is excellent. The leather is thinner but a finer grain the the Schott jackets. The finish is extremely black and slightly oily, and the cut is slim, but surprisingly wearable. Whether that's worth $2500 is up to you, but it is an extremely well made leather jacket.

The Schott jackets are also well made, but put together differently than the TM jacket or the original Durable. I feel like they've changed the pattern a bit as I tried a 618 in 2009 and it felt like it was a slimmer fit back then.

The Durable and Bill Kelso jackets fit the slimmest, the 40 Schott fit very nicely if slightly snug, wouldn't be able to a hoodie under it, while the 42 Schott fit a fair bit looser and would be good for layering. The TM fit between the 2 Schotts and fit the best out of all the jackets.

I will post the measurements of the jackets, and I will post pictures of me wearing them for comparison. My measurements are:
71.5" tall
185lbs
32" inseam
40" chest
39" at navel
36" at hips
16" neck
34" shirt sleeve.

 

[dmoser1978]

First up is the Durable. This is a vintage piece that was relined, had the zippers replaced, and was redyed about 10 years ago. The leather is very soft and thin and I don't wear this very often, it's more a collectible piece at this point.

Durable 40:
P2P: 21"
Waist: 18"
Back Length: 22"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 23"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 34"
Shoulder: 21"

 

[dmoser1978]

The Bill Kelso is pretty much an exact copy of my Durable, down to the OD green zipper pull which I think is just an artifact of me using a NOS M65 replacement zipper for the jacket.

Bill Kelso 40:
P2P: 21"
Waist: 17.5:
Back Length: 22:
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 22"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 34"
Shoulder: 20"

 

[dmoser1978]

The Schott 618 40 fit pretty nicely, though I wouldn't want it to be any snugger. Good for being on a motorcycle, but I'd have to unzip it when I got to my destination.

Schott 618 40:
P2P: 20.5"
Waist: 19"
Back Length: 24"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 25
Middle collar to sleeve end: 34
Shoulder: 17.25"

 

[dmoser1978]

Schott 618 42. Same as above. I find I like the Durable long zippers better than Schott's short sleeve zippers. I may pull the trigger on a 618 for my collection at some point, since they have endured over the years.

The last pic shows how wide it is at the waist compared to the others.

Schott 618 42:
P2P: 21"
Waist: 20.5"
Back Length: 24/24.5"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end:25"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 24"
Shoulder: 18"

 

[dmoser1978]

And finally the Toys McCoy Double Rider. A really high quality leather jacket, the leather feels thinner than the Schott while having a better hand to it, the hardware feels high quality and not quite as clunky as the 618's. I'm not sure how the Durable original was in the 50s, but this gives a feeling of an older garment than the others.

Toys Mccoy 40:
P2P: 21.5"
Waist: 18.5"
Back Length: 23.5"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 24"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 35"
Shoulder: 19.5"

 

[dmoser1978]

Anyway, I'm sending the Schotts back this week, but if anyone wants any direct comparisons between them and the other jackets let me know.

I chose the 618 because Schott has a generous return policy and they are readily available in the US, so people should have a better idea how the other brands fit.

Hope everyone enjoys the pics!

 

[Aloysius]

Great posts! I’ve been curious about the TMC jacket for a while, albeit not from the perspective of The Wild One per se.

(I’ve never seen the film and so have no real connection to it; in terms of this layout of jacket front, my interest came more from Johnny Ramone’s.)

Looks like a great jacket and I really like the fact that it’s made of a thinner leather with a nice handle, because of course that’s more accurate to vintage jackets.

One thing I’m curious about though is how you’re getting your measurements. Are you pressing the jackets down flat? I’ve worn and measured both 618 and 613 jackets and they always are 22 in P2P for a 40 and 23 in P2P for a 42. Likewise, I get a wider shoulder measurement than you’re getting.

(Obviously I’ll add the caveat that I’m not including JDM models, one-offs, or vintage in this claim.)

 

[Canuck Panda]

@dmoser1978 EXCELLENT post. Thank you!

Love all your jackets above. Especially the restoration work done on the original.

Enjoy your jackets.

 

[Observe]

Posts like @dmoser1978's above are why I started using this website. Thanks for your efforts.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I keep coming back to this thread. Millions of ideas are bouncing in my head right now. Johnny really had one of the most iconic bad ass jackets period. The original fit with the super wide shoulders and fitted waist is really the ultimate fit.

 

[Observe]

I keep coming back to this thread. Millions of ideas are bouncing in my head right now. Johnny really had one of the most iconic bad ass jackets period. The original fit with the super wide shoulders and fitted waist is really the ultimate fit.

My crappy Wilson's perfecto clone has about a 23" PTP with about a 20" hem, great taper on a very cheap jacket. I agree the garbage bag fit of the modern perfecto does not do the style justice. I don't know why some makers are seemingly so obstinate in their refusal to taper patterns, leaning on "vintage style" as an excuse for an utterly crap fit, yet you see with the Durable pattern that this was not always the case. I know the modern schott perfecto is likely to be the way it is for an "updated modern fit", but a lot of the old style mc and various half belt and sports jacket styles which are popular around here would benefit from more of a V taper in the pattern. Is it just to accommodate the modern gut? I hope I'm not too off base with my observations.

 

[Canuck Panda]

My crappy Wilson's perfecto clone has about a 23" PTP with about a 20" hem, great taper on a very cheap jacket. I agree the garbage bag fit of the modern perfecto does not do the style justice. I don't know why some makers are seemingly so obstinate in their refusal to taper patterns, leaning on "vintage style" as an excuse for an utterly crap fit, yet you see with the Durable pattern that this was not always the case. I know the modern schott perfecto is likely to be the way it is for an "updated modern fit", but a lot of the old style mc and various half belt and sports jacket styles which are popular around here would benefit from more of a V taper in the pattern. Is it just to accommodate the modern gut? I hope I'm not too off base with my observations.

The vintage one dmoser has, has bigger shoulder than waist, but the modern jackets has bigger waist than shoulders.
This is such an awesome post by dmoser. I kept coming back to it.

 

[photo2u]

And finally the Toys McCoy Double Rider. A really high quality leather jacket, the leather feels thinner than the Schott while having a better hand to it, the hardware feels high quality and not quite as clunky as the 618's. I'm not sure how the Durable original was in the 50s, but this gives a feeling of an older garment than the others.

Toys Mccoy 40:
P2P: 21.5"
Waist: 18.5"
Back Length: 23.5"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 24"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 35"
Shoulder: 19.5"

Thanks so much for sharing your information. Love it. We should use as references. I wish you would have reach me for that main zipper on the original durable. I have them. Those main zippers are on my the top list of the #10 zippers.

 

[Aloysius]

I hope I'm not too off base with my observations.

I think you are, with no offense intended. The extremely oversized shoulder and chest of 1940s jackets can look cool in its own right but is often more costumey looking than flattering. The smaller chest and proportional shoulders on late-50s motorcycle jackets and onward really feels more like a return to the neater jacket fits of the 1930s than a drastic “modern fit”. I’d say the oversized-top V-shape 40s/early 50s jackets are an outlier (though of course not to the extent of 90s jackets).

EDIT: And I’d add that for what it’s worth my own go-to modern Perfecto drops from 23 to just about 20, so if that is your gauge for a good drop, it’s met, but that’s nowhere as severe as a 40s style 24 PTP to 18 hem drop.