Bill Kelso Westfall in Black Liberty HH

[bretron]

my westfall comes with a 5.5" wide cuffs, which is wider than yours, but same as Andy's original.

The tail of three button closure cuffs (left to right): Bill Kelso Aeronaut, NorShor NS1, and Aero Dustbowl. For comparison purposes, I chose to measure the sleeve circumference at the hem where the cuff is stitched to the sleeve. I found it incredibly difficult to get a good measurement laying the cuff flat becuase of the button closure.

Bill Kelso Aeronaut

NorShor NS1

Aero Dustbowl

 

[handymike]

Bret, seems like the Norshor and Aero are tapered a bit and the BK isn't.
Let's see the rest of the jacket now.
By the way, that goat on the NS1 is looking good
;-)

 

[HoosierDaddy]

And If I claims something like that I am bashing my competition, not directly but I do. BK do this more directly than the others and that is all the story. Maybe it would help to see bigger picture. Maybe this is also a cultural thing, who knows maybe in Grecce the advertising is simply different as somewhere else?

I brought this possibility up several years ago. BK seems to have such a lack of understanding of why they accrue flak about this...and continue the same rhetoric (although somewhat toned down compared to their beginning). Yet it is still prone to pop up in BK comments as if an unescapable train of thought on their part. It even carries over in BK's defensive statements of why the customer should be content with what they receive...even if it's a surprise.

 

[thor]

From the BK Facebook page: "We don't touch the sleeves and on most people the jackets look OK, on few others they look big. Conclusion? Some have thin arms/small hands. We could make smaller cuffs that on average would look OK on everyone but we wouldn't like to mess with the original patterns as we advocate authenticity. We are considering now to launch a new line with narrower sleeves targeting the Asian built people."

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Jeesh.
Well I'll say this...how often can you remember where the width and obvious oversized cuff of someone's new jacket from any manufacturer stood out enough to cause this much discussion...or any likewise cuff opening criticism about a vintage leather jacket ,as far as that goes. To some it just somehow doesn't look right compared to even an authentic vintage jacket as if the whole sleeve is out of proportion with the cuff opening.

 

[Superfluous]

From the BK Facebook page: "We don't touch the sleeves and on most people the jackets look OK, on few others they look big. Conclusion? Some have thin arms/small hands. We could make smaller cuffs that on average would look OK on everyone but we wouldn't like to mess with the original patterns as we advocate authenticity. We are considering now to launch a new line with narrower sleeves targeting the Asian built people."

What exactly are "Asian built people"? I am 6 feet tall and weight approximately 170 lbs. Am I an "Asian built" person?

 

[Sloan1874]

Personally, I'd rather sacrifice a little authenticity and have a jacket that looked good on me than sleeves that flapped about my wrists. It's like the old A-2 ding-dong about whether repros should imitate the propensity of knits on originals to stretch out. Personally, if I'd spent £££ or even $$$ on one, then six months later the knits were flopping about and the maker says "There you go, none more authentic, mate", I'd be rather miffed.

 

[Superfluous]

^ This

 

[bretron]

Totally insane, man!! Just baffling

 

[zhz]

Just did the measurement on my Wstfall, it is actually 1 inch narrower than your BK jacket Breton, and same measurements as you Aero, NorShor...But still cause that wider cuff effect on me.
But considering the measurements given by bretron, this sleeve should looks fine on him, and most of you guys here I believe...

 

[chamboid]

Ok, so don't know if it still of interest but here are my comparison pictures

First up BK original Hercules






BK Aeronaut







Vintage late 40’s Hercules

 

[chamboid]

And all together 40’s Hercules top, BK Aeronaut middle, BK Hercules bottom





For the record I am 5ft 7 have a 35.6” chest and the circumference of my wrist at the joint is 6.3”

As you can see, the 40’s Hercules is definitely the widest, all the way down the arm. With a 12” circumference, same as the BK Hercules. (I know it's a different jacket not an exact likeness)

I do not think any of the sleeves look to big on me.

 

[Bunyip]

That's a great, very simple and practical comparison.

 

[chamboid]

Please ignore the look on my face and the strategically placed weights in the back ground I obviously never use and saggy arse tracksuit bottoms.

Remeber Bretron is a larger size thanks yours zhz. Brett remind me if y are a 42 or 44?

 

[Blackadder]

From the BK Facebook page: "We don't touch the sleeves and on most people the jackets look OK, on few others they look big. Conclusion? Some have thin arms/small hands. We could make smaller cuffs that on average would look OK on everyone but we wouldn't like to mess with the original patterns as we advocate authenticity. We are considering now to launch a new line with narrower sleeves targeting the Asian built people."

Mmm, Asian cut eh. I may be tempted if they get the proportion right. I can see BK's comparison and I can see with storm cuffs, those have to be wide enough to accomondate the knit cuffs inside but with a simple button cuffs, that's another story. Anyway, may be I am so used to seeing and wearing the tight fitting clothes in recent years that a true vintage jacket will look odd to me as well.

 

[bretron]

I'm a 42

 

[handymike]

This is very interesting...thank you for the pictures Chamboid.

 

[zhz]

Great post chamboid. yes, comparing with Bretron'jacket is not right. So the width of my Westfall Sleeve is about same as your aeronaut, which definitely not looks odd on you. Considering my wrist in 5.8", this half inch cause me many troubles.

 

[handymike]

Anyone out there have a Himel sleeve to measure?

 

[bretron]

Btw, Cham. As you know I'm very jealous of that vtg Herc. It's just the best man...