Bill Kelso Westfall in Black Liberty HH

[zhz]

I received this jacket last week. I ordered it in black liberty HH, I've been told the black HH is lighter than the seal and russet, but when I got the jacket, I feel it is actually heavier, but the leather itself is soft and smooth. I added a inside pocket, and asked for a Hercules style cuff and diamond zip for the chest pocket.

I did a hot water treatment to the sleeve, after the leather dried, it becomes very stiff, but after one day wear, it getting soft, and shows lots grain.

 

[bretron]

Looks like a perfect fit. Congrats.

What are your thoughts on the width of the cuffs? Based on your last picture, it would appear they are as generously cut as those on my Aeronaut.

 

[pawineguy]

Looks like a perfect fit. Congrats.

What are your thoughts on the width of the cuffs? Based on your last picture, it would appear they are as generously cut as those on my Aeronaut.

Same question, and can you use the second button on the cuff or is it purely decorative?

 

[handymike]

I like it a lot ZHZ, but as Bretron states, the cuffs look roomy. How do they feel to you?

 

[bretron]

BK's response when I brought this up was that the cuffs were industry standard. But my measurements and experience spoke differently (1" wider than on every other button cuffed jacket I currently own)

 

[zhz]

yes, the cuff and sleeves are wide. I can use the second button on the cuff, but it doesnt feels good when I do so because of the creases.

It doesnt bother me too much at the moment, because I am wearing a thick swearer/hoody under it. So the wide sleeve is actually a good thing for now. But yes, if I only wear a t-shirt as in the last photo, it doesnt look right, although the feel is ok.

 

[zhz]

BK's response when I brought this up was that the cuffs were industry standard. But my measurements and experience spoke differently (1" wider than on every other button cuffed jacket I currently own)

True, BK makes cuff and sleeve wider than other makers. No idea why.
I actually know this, but I forgot to ask them slim down the sleeve.

 

[zhz]

BK's response when I brought this up was that the cuffs were industry standard. But my measurements and experience spoke differently (1" wider than on every other button cuffed jacket I currently own)

Do you still have the BK jacket? By any chance you can post some fit pictures or you Aeronaut?

 

[Sloan1874]

Yes, the cuffs seem do seem to have been cut pretty wide.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I just don't get it. Sleeves are 'industry standard'..?? Are you kidding me BK..?? Unbelievable....
HD

 

[navetsea]

great looking jacket, that half exposed silver main zipper looks cool. Probably the sleeve's cuff was designed to pack a pair of concealed wrist mounted derringer

 

[handymike]

Or these...

 

[Superfluous]

Congrats ZHZ!

BK's response when I brought this up was that the cuffs were industry standard. But my measurements and experience spoke differently (1" wider than on every other button cuffed jacket I currently own)

I had the identical experience. Both the Aeronaut and modified Westfall that I ordered from BK came with unusually wide sleeves/cuffs -- at least one inch wider than any other button cuffed sleeve on my other jackets. When I inquired of Andy, he told me that BK's cuffs were the correct width. Andy further stated: "we observe lately a tendency towards skinny sleeves to which we can only reply with this video. Please watch here:http://www.mademan.com/deevolution-of-man-skinny-jeans/." The linked video denigrates skinny jeans, as distinct from appropriately sized jacket sleeves; in other words, the linked video is inapposite. Moreover, Andy's reference to the video was plainly intended to disparage those who prefer a sleeve width narrower than that found on ZHZ's jacket.

 

[zhz]

For the record, I prefer the narrow sleeve as well. And I've emailed Andy few times regard the sleeve width etc, and he said BK made the sleeve based on the original jacket.
For this jacket, as i asked for their original Hercules style sleeves, from the photo I've seen, this jacket has a narrow sleeve than Westfall, so I didnt/forgot to ask them to narrow the sleeve.

 

[A-1]

I seem to be the only person not to mind the sleeve width. But then my sleeves are quite short. Maybe that's the difference.

Zhz, I really like your black leather jacket. If they had black when I ordered mine, I guess I would've chosen black instead of the the russet. However, I'm very happy with my decision as well.

 

[pawineguy]

For the record, I prefer the narrow sleeve as well. And I've emailed Andy few times regard the sleeve width etc, and he said BK made the sleeve based on the original jacket.
For this jacket, as i asked for their original Hercules style sleeves, from the photo I've seen, this jacket has a narrow sleeve than Westfall, so I didnt/forgot to ask them to narrow the sleeve.

It's a nice looking jacket regardless, and I hope you can enjoy it for many years. I have a late 40s Hercules jacket and the cuff width is 5.5". The mistake that I think some manufacturers make is that they build off of a single "original" jacket, and that becomes their absolute. There is no single "Original" Hercules, it was made in many different styles, and evolved over the years. (BK makes two jackets that they sell as Hercules, for example) Aero also makes one, and the one I own is different then all three of those, and has no buttons or straps on the cuffs.

 

[Sloan1874]

Congrats ZHZ!



I had the identical experience. Both the Aeronaut and modified Westfall that I ordered from BK came with unusually wide sleeves/cuffs -- at least one inch wider than any other button cuffed sleeve on my other jackets. When I inquired of Andy, he told me that BK's cuffs were the correct width. Andy further stated: "we observe lately a tendency towards skinny sleeves to which we can only reply with this video. Please watch here:http://www.mademan.com/deevolution-of-man-skinny-jeans/." The linked video denigrates skinny jeans, as distinct from appropriately sized jacket sleeves; in other words, the linked video is inapposite. Moreover, Andy's reference to the video was plainly intended to disparage those who prefer a sleeve width narrower than that found on ZHZ's jacket.

Sounds like a bit of a Lost Worlds gambit: liking sleeves that fit makes you less of a man. I think the most Lounge-friendly term I can muster for that view is: balderdash.
If zhz is happy with it, fine, his money, his call. But to denigrate any one for questioning the fit of a jacket they've shelled out a lot of dosh for is just, to use another nice Lounge-esque term, not on and a very poor show.

 

[zhz]

It's a nice looking jacket regardless, and I hope you can enjoy it for many years. I have a late 40s Hercules jacket and the cuff width is 5.5". The mistake that I think some manufacturers make is that they build off of a single "original" jacket, and that becomes their absolute. There is no single "Original" Hercules, it was made in many different styles, and evolved over the years. (BK makes two jackets that they sell as Hercules, for example) Aero also makes one, and the one I own is different then all three of those, and has no buttons or straps on the cuffs.

I dont think this is the case. From what I know, they are not making jacket based on one model. BK makes Westfall based on one origina jacket, and the original Hercules based on another one. I believe Aero makes their based on the original they have.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

I don't think my Californian has wide cuffs like that.

Anyway, you have a beautiful jacket the Liberty HH looks great in black and the fit is spot on.

 

[Edward]

There's obviously no single standard when it comes ot civilian wear. I'm not clear whether Andy F is claiming that his sleeves are an accurate reproduction of one specific jacket, or that all narrow sleeves are 'period incorrect'. [huh]

Or these...

Oh, that takes me back! I was a fifteen year old metalhead. And mine were studded.

I had the identical experience. Both the Aeronaut and modified Westfall that I ordered from BK came with unusually wide sleeves/cuffs -- at least one inch wider than any other button cuffed sleeve on my other jackets. When I inquired of Andy, he told me that BK's cuffs were the correct width. Andy further stated: "we observe lately a tendency towards skinny sleeves to which we can only reply with this video. Please watch here:http://www.mademan.com/deevolution-of-man-skinny-jeans/." The linked video denigrates skinny jeans, as distinct from appropriately sized jacket sleeves; in other words, the linked video is inapposite. Moreover, Andy's reference to the video was plainly intended to disparage those who prefer a sleeve width narrower than that found on ZHZ's jacket.

Slaon's right on the money here: absolutely sounds like Andy's adopted the Lost worlds school of "If you don't like the way we do it, it's because you're unmanly". Pretty funny, really..... (though it doesn't exactly encourage me to buy from them...).